Does anybody have detailed intructions on the spiral wrap preprinted or on a web-site? I've read and re-read the past posts on this board and I'm ready to give it a shot., but I'd like to have the info in front of me when I get rolling. Now for the can of worms... I know I will have to test and play with spacing but I need a starting point. Can someone recommend spacing for a lamiglas GSH961MT 8 ft 10-20lb ? where to start the transition 3 or 4 guides around etc.? I will be using an abu6500.
Thanks in advance,
Tom

Tom, I would order a back issue of RodMaker Setp/Oct volume 3 #5. This is the best article on the subject. You won't have any questions about the spiral wrap after you read it. Mike

Tom,
Not to be rude, but maybe the point is missed about setting up a spiral wrap to conform to a type of guide chart. There really is no such thing that will work for every blank type. You do have the right idea about starting, because the reel at hand will give you an idea about placing it to the blank to measure up to the butt guide.
You'll probably get as many ideas for start-to-finish the spiral wrap as there are rodbuilders. We had a show locally to anglers and the odd rodbuilder in the area. I demonstrated the stability of the finished rods which were spiral wrapped 7' bass rods with SCV (legend) blanks.
What I stressed to show was first of all how the reel remains stable upon applying load to the tip. This was obvious and impressed.
Aside from that, I had bright yellow hi-visibility no strecth fishing line spooled on the reel and through the guides. What this did was show the line path through the guides as being the best and direct route.
THAT is what you wish to strive for in making the spiral wrap for a casting rod, in my opinion.

So for a starting point find the power spot on your blank where it deflects when you apply pressure on the blank in a vertical position.
That spot should be fairly constant in relation to the makeup of the blank. This differs also, because each blank is different, just as finding the spine is different with each blank. Generally something of an 8' blank as mentioned with medium power might have that point marked somewhere about 20" from the middle of the reel seat, but this is with a somewhat 'normal' handle configuration and a butt grip not overly extended. So, the point here is to best function, the butt guide should be not closer than about 15" from the reel face as some will say this causes line piling on the reel. If you must get closer, just do a test to see if this would be the case.

Once I apply the butt guide and wind it on, the rest is fairly transitional with the line path dictating the guide distances and angles of rotation to get to 180 degrees. On the 8' blank, this may take 5 guides to complete. From that point at 180, use the smaller guides as would best accomplish the task for the blank (probably size 8 or 7 ring) and don't skimp on the number to the tip that will give good stress distribution. That's it. The line is direct, follows a path of least resistance, enough guides distributed for taking the stress, and should cast as good as any conventional rod, maybe better.

The part you might play around with is the sizing and types of guides at the spiraling. Many combinations can apply here. Normally the butt guide will be double foot, and I like the next one also the same with one size reduction that will keep the line as best centered or just barely touching the top or bottom of the guide. Avoid line contact that would be at the sides of the guides for smoothest flow. Bridge or single foot guides usually would be fine towards the end of the spiral, and a good principal to incorporate would be to have smaller, lighter guides as it transitions straight to the tip with lower profile guides.
Set up things and go test cast for your own satisfaction.

The explanations for spiral wrap are mostly repetetive in nature, and I apologize if I've said the above many times before. You'll find plenty in the archives for information. The point is that there really is no 'right' way to rubber stamp the guides into a preset plan if you're a custom rodbuilder. The principals of what that rod tells you where it would like the line to flow in relation to the reel face and lure rating, etc is more important than following a guide chart that may give you
'best guess' estimate. I like to think of it sort of a project or a painting. You know what your starting with for a canvas, and the end point is not seen, but you know when it comes together right or it does not.
It's not really that difficult and most spiral wraps, even with some 'discrepancies' will probably function fairly well at least in achieving stability. The finer points may increase performance or casting distance a bit, but I would also start with good quality materials and blanks, keeping lightness and balance in mind.

I learn something new with each spiral rod either I've made or seen from another rodbuilder. The variety can be quite surprising, but I like to keep fundamentals of guide size and type choices to take full advantage of the blank and the situation for which it will be used.

Rich
Richard's Rod & Reel

The Sept/Oct 2000 RodMaker gives one method and the March/April 2001 issue gives another. Between the two you'll know a lot about the method behind the madness of the spiral wrap. Get those issues. They are very much worth it if you are really interested in learning how to set this thing up correctly. Once you do I'd bet you will never go back to a standard guides on top set-up.

I've got a Lamiglass 8' to be used with a 5500 on my table right now. I placed the first guide in the same place I would a normal rod. I spiraled under with 4 guides total about 6" apart. About 0, 60, 120, 180. I think it took 11 guides on the blank. This is the first spiral I've built but the line sure flows well. Can't wait to fish with it. Good luck, steve

Thanks Steve, that's exactly what I was looking for. I haven't done one yet and need a starting point. I figure that with all the knowledge available on this board I will save at least one roll of masking tape (maybe two) by next fall. I would have figured on fewer guides (like a spinning rod) but I guess it's due to the transition guides? Well time to start taping and testing.
Thanks Again,
Tom

OK now you know where to go there did you count on which way to start the spiral? I ,for myself , prefer to spiral to the left or c.clock looking from butt to tip. I am right handed but I just can't seem to have a grip on looking at the guides while fishing. I sort of still get distracted while using my spiral. You have to adjust and if building for a customer have theem try it out to find their preference.
Mark

11 guides sound about right for the 8' rod. The last 8 footer took me 11 guides plus the tip. The last 7' bass rod took 9 guides plus the tip.

It should probably take about 5 to transition to 180 degrees and the rest out to the tip.

Determining whether to spiral clockwise or CCW are really a preference thing. As said before, one may choose for convenience when laying the rod down having the off set guides settle with the same side as the reel handle. So, left hand wind reel do the spiral CCW. It really should not matter from a performance standpoint.

Good Luck.

Rich
Richard's Rod & Reel