Just wondering what the usual practice is. I'm learning to do cross wraps, and am using Flex Coat High Build to coat the finished wrap. How many coats is the norm? And is it considered ok to have "peaks and valleys" (for, e.g., open wraps), or is it usual to sand and re-apply to get a perfectly flat finish?

I always use two, regardless of finish. One thing coat followed by a heavier coat 24hrs later.

Lou

It's just a matter of getting what you prefer. I do them all with one application. Others use 2 or 3 or more. Some allow the finish to level to the wrap, others keep putting it on and then sand it flat to level across the rod. It's all just really a matter of personal preference.

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When all is said and done, I put 4 or 5 coats. I like to build it up, then when all the threads are covered I sand it down flat, then come back with a final lite coat, applying just enough to cover all teh sanding marks w/o the epoxy "pulling away" and leaving a dry spot. I use a 3-layer tie off, so this also "forces" me to use more epoxy as I'll never be able to do what I do unless I apply that many coats.

When I sand, I'll usually use 220 grit on a sanding block of some sort. I have gone to 180 grit, then 220 for really bumpy finishes, and not once have sanding marks shown up.

When all is said and done, I put 4 or 5 coats. I like to build it up, then when all the threads are covered I sand it down flat, then come back with a final lite coat, applying just enough to cover all teh sanding marks w/o the epoxy "pulling away" and leaving a {dry spot} What is the cause and cure for the {DRY Spot} ? This is not from a bubble, the finnsh just pulls away and leaves a spot that does not want to fill? Thanks Jay

I'm a one coat kind guy as well as a high build kind of guy.

My advise would be to use as many coats as you are comfortable with, however I have seldom found it neccessary to use more than one.

Later,
Gerald Mc

I like the final finish to be smooth without the bumps and valleys sometimes seen. Usually two or three coats is sufficient and I never have to sand. To get it level I use brush strokes the entire lenght of the wrap, approx 20 or so, after the finish has been applied and allowed to level for several minutes. I usually have weave in the middle of my butt wraps and rarely even put more than 2 coats over the weave to get it level with the wrap. I use Classic coat high build.

Jay - no idea why there are dry spots, my guess is that I didn't apply enough epoxy to the area.

I've tried to use less coats, but with closed wraps & high spots & low spots, it never comes close to ooking how I want it to look. WHen I sight down the rod and turn it, I want it to look like glass. When I try the other ways, regardless of how I apply the epoxy, it neer looks the way I want it to.

Jay-I would guess that those dry spots that are repelling the finish are small contaminations or fish eyes. You've got something, even oils from your hands, that is causing this. Cleaning the area just before applying finish, then Scotchbriting (make sure the Scotchbrite hasn't been contaminated) is the best way to rid yourself of contamination problems such as this.

Putter
Williston, ND

I occasionally get those fisheyes also after the first coat but they always disappear after the second coat