I have switched from Flex Coat high build epoxy to American Tackle high build because of the faster cure time, American says their product has less bubbles but I find there are many more which I have to heat with my torch,I never had to heat the Flex Coat, just blowing on it removed all of the bubbles, anyone else having noticed this or am I doing something wrong, also are there any other epoxies that cure faster than Flex Coat ?

Glass Coat probably sets up the quickest of them all. Bubbles are caused during the mixing and application process. With a mechanical mixer, you elminate 100% of the bubbles during the mixing phase. If you reduce "brushing" during application, you can elminate most of the ones created during application.


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After you mix the epoxy pour it onto a piece of tinfoil or in an aluminum pan.....Pass your torch over the finish and this will rid you of all the bubbles you caused during mixing..................

I like Glasscoat..a LOT !! Hint..don't be frugal...I mix one batch....do the butt section..get it on the rotator..then mix a NEW batch so it's as thin as it gets, & do the tip section.

Some thing to think about - thick epoxy makes it hard for bubbles to release!!
I use galss coat, but thin it a bit and the bubbles release easy. Also gives me time to do the complete rod

The Epoxy Coatings Co's '1 Coat' sets up pretty fast and is extremely good at releasing bubbles. Bingham's carries it. It's real good at self levelling, also.

Putter
Williston, ND

I bought a Flex Coat 18rpm drying motor and bent the metal support back about 40 degrees. I covered the face with a circle cut from the bottom of a heavy aluminum pie plate. With a Velcro strip on the base and another on the bottom of a 2 oz stainless steel measuring cup I can now attach and release the cup easily. I place a 1/2" steel ball in the cup and add 3cc of Hardener and then the same amount of Epoxy. I run the motor for two minutes plus a some...and voila! not a single bubble no matter what brand, high build or low. Pouring it out into a plastic cover from those potato chips that come in a canister provides a nice depth of material. I load the pointed tip of one of Joe Kassuba's Spatulas and "draw" a line of epoxy around the edges of the thread wrap. Then I load up the flat end and deposit a glob right onto the threads, spreading while the rod turns slowly. The spatula never even touches the thread. I stop the rod and let the excess sag to the bottom. Then, with the flat side of the spatula at an angle, I swipe the excess off fr0om the bottom from left to right as the rod turns slowly. Foolproof and without a single bubble. You can make a motorized mixer instead of investing in the Flex Coat motor. To me it is a good investment and a pleasure touse. I clean everyting off with Isopropyl Alcohol including the steel ball. The dried epoxy is easily removed from the plastic cap which can be used over and over. I hope this lengthy description is helpful to you and others. Epoxy mising and application used to be my nemesis and now it is a joy.
Dave

Would a glass marble be heavy enough for the mixer? Otherwise where do you pick up a steel ball?

Bill in WV

Bill:
I found all sizes at my local hardware store, up to 5/8"

Ed