I have used both Flexcoat Lite (thined by warming in the micro wave )and Perma Gloss as basecoat and cover coat on my waterslide decals. The results have been OK using either product but not really up to high standards. The end result is clear but rough. I can't seem to get rid of the brush marks. Any sugggestions?

Carl

I use Flex Coat, have used both Low and High Build, directly over waterslides (under also) and have had no problem getting a smooth decal and coat. I do not use a brush, instead use a metal spatula. I dribble the finish liberally all over the surface to be coated, move it around a bit as necessary (while still very fluid)with the edge of the spatula, but never come even close to directly touching the decal or thread surfaces. After everything is coated, the excess finish is removed, again with the spatula, by letting it collect at the bottom while occasionally rotating the blank 180 degrees. The finish self-levels this way. After a certain amount of time, the most important thing is to leave it alone. At this point you can put it in the dryer, or just continue rotating by hand.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2005 04:17PM by Tom Doyle.

try doing a search on flex coat and microwave. i think i saw a post here recently, possibly from tom kirkman, which stated that microwaving flex coat finish simply accelerates the drying process and is not a recommended way to thin the finish.

eric
fresno, ca.

Do it with out the heat. Let it have time to " flow " or level out. The warmer it is the faster it will set up

I coat all my waterslide decals with Flex Coat Lite, applied with a soft bristle disposable brush, with very good results. The only time I've gotten brush marks is when I haven't applied enough finish. I put on more than is needed, brush it lengthwise to get a smooth, level finish, then (as said above), gather the excess finish that collects at the end you brush towards, by holding the brush beneath the rod as it turns, and remove with the brush. Let the rod turn for 6-8 hours on a dryer, and you sould get great results. Have fun!

Hello Carl
I have found that turning by hand will gives a very distortion free finish epoxy coating. Tom discribes using a spatula and dribbling it on very well. I do mine similar by letting the epoxy flow off the spatula while spreading it lengthwise over the decoarative finish (decal or etc.). I form furrows adjacent to each other. If the entire decorative surface is coated this way the epoxy will flow out and level very nicely. Excess epoxy will sag and can be wiped off using the spatula. Turn the rod 180 deg at a time after coating. Usually it takes about 2 hours to get the finish to the point of non sagging. Another method is to turn it until you get the look you want and then put it on a slow turner. 1 or 2 rpm. What appears to be the case here is that by turning by hand or slowly the epoxy sets up in a more evenly giving more clarity to it and thereby a more distortion free light reflection characteristic. I have shared this with others and some have noted this too. It does make sense considering the molecular structure of epoxy.

Regards Joe Kassuba

His Rod Shop
Joe Kassuba

I built a rod turner for finish over 20 years ago and it just worked out that it's a 2 RPM. Didn't know any better, have just always used it. Not too hard getting nice, flat, even finish jobs as long as too much is not put on using this turner.

Nice to hear that Joe likes this speed when using one, also. Hand turning is a great option, though, if time allows.


Putter
Williston, ND

for a smooth finish over waterslide decals I put a heavy coat of flex coat on then take the excess off with a spatula and I've never had a problem.