I have a new waterslide decal from Decal Connection.....and a couple of questions. Posted a question on Jimi's site...but I know they are doing web site/e-mail work.

1. Do I leave in it the warm water for 2 minutes? Reading the directions I think that is what I'm supposed to do.

2. Can I affix it to a sanded coat of flex coat and still have it come out great when I flex coat over it or do I have to apply it to an unsanded coat? I guess I'm worried that if I apply it to a sanded coat that it will some how negatively efect the appearance of the finished product.

3. Any worries about the corners coming up as you flex coat over it?

I think that is it.....

Keith

Keith,

I soak the decal until it releases. That may or may not be two minutes. I have never tried placing the decal on a sanded flexcoat surface and would be a little concerned that it would show. I have not had any of the corners of the new decals come up after seating. I do like to dab my decal with tissue to soak away excess water as I rub out any bubbles.

Dan

I usually put mine in water for a few seconds, take it out and let it set for a couple minutes, this activates the glue.

I would not apply it over a sanded finish, because when you cover the decal with finish, the unfinished surface is still "UNFINISHED" so it will show thru, I would put a finish on the sanded area, then apply the decal, and put a finish over that.

Regarding corners, just round the corners a little with sissors. It works fine.

Tight lines,

Art

Art's method is correct. Jimi from Decal Connection did a little demo at his booth in Charlotte. I must admit, I use to soak it for the full two minutes.

When I was building model airplanes, I used this technique:

Spray the model with a coat of Future Floor Finish (decals want to be applied to a clear glossy surface.)

Cut around the decal and soak in water until it will slide off.

Apply MicroScale Micro Set to the place where the decal will go.

Slide the decal into position.

Blot away excess moisture.

Apply MicroScale Micro Sol to the decal and do not touch it - let it dry.

The set and sol make the decal look like it was painted on. There are no edge lines around the decal. When you apply the sol the decal sometimes looks "crinkly" but in the end they flatten out as they shrink and adhere to the surface.

[www.bare-metal.com] (scroll down for descriptions of Set and Sol)

If you leave the decal in the water until it releases, then you are loosing valuable adhesive. Please soak it in the water for only 5-10 seconds. Take it out and place it on your working table for the 2-4 minutes.

Thanks for understanding about our website. We are in the final stages of having it up and running. if you attempt to go there before tomorrow(Saturday) you will be hitting very old pages that go nowhere and do nothing.

For the inconvenience. If anyone ever has a decal question, please never hesitate to email me orders@decalconnection.com. My email is now back to working properly.

I have given an article to Rod Maker magazine and MAYBE in an upcoming issue. This will give complete details and tips on the ease of applying your decals.

Jimi

Keith,
I have not put the Decal Connection decals on a sanded surface but I have attempted to apply them directly to a blank that had a matt finish without first putting a coat of epoxy over the blank. It does not work very well. They will sometimes come out looking cloudy. I would recommend that you apply a coat of finish to the sanded area before applying the decal.

I've used the DC decals on both matte finished blanks and blanks where I have put down a coat of finish with good results except for when I use AMTAK Lite for the coating. I also use a decal setting solution, when I place the decal on the rod on top of the solution, the decal immediately sticks to the rod and I can not move it for exact placement. I have other decals not on DC paper and have no problem moving them into proper position using the same procedures.

Jim, any suggestions?