So i return the reel seat I really wanted for my new SCIV because it was too small. I order the seat from St. Croix that goes with the rod. It fits as bad s the original. Are there different sizes of the same real seat? It's an FW-105(Birdseye maple). Thanks, Jeff

What do you mean by it fits bad?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/17/2005 04:18PM by Gerry Rhoades.

Jeff,

Perhaps you're not aware, but reel seats and their inserts will have to be either bored to fit or shimmed to fit, the rod blank butt. Seat inserts typically come in two sizes, .380 and .420 (I think those are correct) and it is the job of the custom builder to then fit the seat to the blank.

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I need to ream the wood seat out more than I thought it would need cosidering it's the seat that goes with the kit. One would think it would be close. I think I will be okay. On further inspection I have more wood to "work with". With the Golden Witch Seat I first tried the wood where the channel is was very thin and I didn't want to risk it. It almost seems llike the bore was slightly wider on one side than the other. The other lesson I just learned was that in using a rattail file you can scratch the blank when testing the seat. Ouch! Not too bad though but still bugs me. Jeff

The seats are purchased from a supplier and they aren't hand fitted to the blank (the kit would cost you quite a bit more if they took the time to do that!).


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Tom, I'm not saying I mind doing the work. At first glance I didn't think it would work at all. It's going to be close. I built 2 other rods with the kit from St. Croix and the kit was simply the cost of the components individually. They provided graphite for the one and the other fit perfectly. Thanks for your help! Jeff

If the other one fit perfectly, it was a fluke. Pure happenstance. Part of the fun of building the rod yourself is taking things that are in parts and don't fit together and making them do so. In the meantime, you fine tune the rod to get as near as you can, the absolute best performance out of the components.

Perhaps reading and rereading some good publications on rod building to get the real idea of what it is all about.

Thanks, I do understand what it's all about and enjoy doing it. I guess I'm not doing a good job of expressing myself. My frustration is probably mostly do to the fact that the friend I'm building this for is coming in next weekend and I'm under pressure to finish. It's also a more expensive rod than the others. I've enjoyed working at my own pace on relatively inexpensive rods and have learned something new on each one. I've had a lot of help from here and read a lot. I'm no expert and can't yet do all the things you guys can. With 3 young boys at home I squeeze in the time I can. Thanks, again to all. Jeff

As you go along you'll develop methods for reaming and shimming that will greatly speed up the process. I know it's frustrating, but hang in there and before long you'll see how much easier it gets.

I used to teach rod building classes about 4 times per year. I took great pains to show people how to ream or shim seats because I knew it would be very helpful to them later on. One guy ended up taking the class 3 times (he just liked building his rods under the atmosphere of a class) and on each attempt the reel seat he got perfectly matched the rod blank he had ordered. Wouldn't happen again in a million years.

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I've done the reaming and it actually went pretty well. It is very snug. With a snug fit is there any concern that not enough epoxy will stay between the blank and handle as the handle is slid on? thanks, Jeff

Even if it's pretty snug, as long as you put the epoxy up the blank a ways from where it's glued into position at so that you get a good amount of epoxy into the reel seat as you draw it into position. Rotate the seat over this loose fitting, epoxy covered area to make sure that you get plenty in the good spots. Then slide it into position. It'll glue up fine, then.

Putter
Williston, ND

Jeff Price Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Thanks, I do understand what it's all about and
> enjoy doing it. I guess I'm not doing a good job
> of expressing myself. My frustration is probably
> mostly do to the fact that the friend I'm building
> this for is coming in next weekend and I'm under
> pressure to finish. It's also a more expensive rod
> than the others. I've enjoyed working at my own
> pace on relatively inexpensive rods and have
> learned something new on each one. I've had a lot
> of help from here and read a lot. I'm no expert
> and can't yet do all the things you guys can. With
> 3 young boys at home I squeeze in the time I can.
> Thanks, again to all. Jeff


Wow,This has the makings of a rod building reality show!! sound familiar???

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Don't forget to 'gently' scuff the blank where the seat will reside. This will allow a good bond to that spot. The inside of the seat itself is probably already rough enough after that reaming. Follow Putter's suggestions and you won't have any problems.

Jay

One very handy tool is a dial caliper. You can measure your blank and pretty much know when you order your reel seat whether it is going to fit. Same for the winding check. I think it is ridiculous to supply either a reel seat or grip in a kit that has to be reamed to fit.

Greetings Jeff,

Prior to this post a number of posters suggested seeing what others have written on the important steps in rodbuilding. And on the left you'll see The Mudhole link.

Going there, look for Rodbuilding 101 and there you'll find many valuable tips.
The specific URL:, below is right on target:
[members.datafast.net.au]

All 'postings', that have preceeded this post were right on target, but see if ''visual works' (no offense intended).

I hope you do resolve it;
Oh! and I'd urge staying far away from any 'glue' steps until your seat is 'centered' on the blank and alligned with the spine, convincingly.

Addage:
'A picture is worth a 1000 words'

Good luck,
Bob