If you like to build lots of rods, but also have a tendency to change your mind a lot, try new things, or build lots of prototypes out of curiosity, this may be helpful, especially if you can't afford to spend too much on the hobby. Instead of finishing your wraps with epoxy, finish them with 2-3 coats of Gudebrod 822 rod varnish. 1 part, water clean up.

I have rebuilt a lot of rods over this winter and the ones that I built using this finishing technique are a joy to rebuild whereas most of the ones I built with epoxy or Permagloss are more work than it's worth. You may think that this light build of varnish does not protect the thread that much, but consider these points: 1) who cares, you're a rodbuilder and can redo them anytime you want; and 2) just about all rods from the 70s and earlier were finished this way and many of them are still in service and have never been rewrapped. I have an old surf rod for example that has been through @#$%& and back and its varnished wraps are still really not in need of redoing.

Of course, I think if you are building for paying customers and want to optimize durability, this may not be the absolute best method but if you want to preserve the option to redo the rod later, this will save you some labor down the road and still give you a very durable rod to fish and experiment with.

Steve'
I still have serveral boat rods that I built the way you described back in the mid '70's. They have seen severe service and are just fine. And yes, easeally refurbished or changed at a whim. My latest project will be finished this way also. It's just that most folks go with the epoxie for longevity. I don't like it on small lite weight stuff, but use it otherwise.
As mom use to say; try it, you might like it. :)


Fred Crum
Dixon, Ca.

I tend to agree with you on this Steve, but I am using the Klass Kote epoxy paints, satin and gloss formulas, instead of the Permagloss.

How are the epoxy paints different?

Don, I'll admit I am usually more focused on trying some new set up or blank than I am on the appearance of my wraps. I haven't used the epoxy paints yet but have been interested when I hear you describe them. I bet they look great and so does the Gudebrod 822 if you put more like 4-5 coats instead of the 2-3 I'm describing here. Let me just say that the water clean-up is one excellent selling point for me. Sure makes it easy and quick. Water is quite a friendly solvent and sure makes your brushes last a long, long time. I use the expensive 1/4" sable from Flexcoat. Expensive is really the wrong word since with hot water rinse I've been using the same brush for about a year and a half for a $6 brush.

Gotta go catch a train home from work - later.

Steve

I also am very cheap when it comes to brushes. In answer to your question Gerry, the epoxy paint does not set up as quickly as varnish or Permagloss and has a pot life of hours. I have been using a plastic palette knife to put on the first 2 coats of the 2 part epoxy paint. Put it on, then immediately take it off with the flat of the knife, one wrap at a time. Why? Because it seals and fills the threads without any buildup AND it lays down the fuzzies AND the satin catalyst acts as a color preserver on dark thread AND it doesn't smell (much). You do not have to turn the rod after the first two coats. The mixture for the third coat is allowed to thicken in the pot about 45 minutes, so it is like a greatly thinned epoxy. I apply this with a slice of foam brush about 3/4s the width of the wrap. One brush makes several strips. Let this last coat turn for 12 hours. The finished product looks like a regular epoxy wrap without the build-up. If I could find by dial caliper I would give you a measurement of the standoff from the thread.

I have used the Klass Kote epoxies also , the potlife as Don describes is long to say the least . I have used it on surf rods mostly as they are much bigger and take conciderably longer to cover . I have to try this method that Don describes on the smaller flyrods. The 2 cans I have when mixed are rather strong smelling though , but it's the clear . JD

Got Fish ?

Steve,

That's a good idea. I just ordered 822 for the first time today and now I read this post. I will give it a go.

Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.

Hank, I think you will like it. By the way did you ever get my response to your e-mail about the AmTak AMF908-4? I never heard back from you, which is fine, but I was worried maybe my response got buried in a spam folder or something like that. Let me know how you like the 822 - real good product I think.

Steve

Hi Steve,

No I did not get your reply on AmTak AMF908-4. Possibly I missed it, Could you send me the info again. I'm going to build a rod using 822 and another using 840 (1part epoxy) for myself and fish them hard this summer (if we ever get summer, forcast for another 12+ inches of snow this weekend). If 2 part exopy would go on like 840 no one would be complaining about exopy. That stuff goes on without bubbles, and lays flat. My concern is will it hold up under heavy use. I now use 840 instead of CP to lock my under wraps, works great.

Thanks Steve



Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.

Thanks for the tip on the 840 Hank. I'll have to get some and try it out. I sent you new e-mail on Friday morning about the AMF908-4.