Hello All !!!

Awesome Show.....gotta clean a few out B4 next year !!

I am building a rod using the cork tape instead of the rings, or pre-made handles.

Once I got the cork on, I had the same problem getting the cut at the seat perfectly square, I used new razor blades and tried to overwrap the seat, to use it's frame as a guide....didn't turn out too well....any clues on how to do this better ??

Also, I was able to get a good square end on the upper end of the foregrip, but am having trouble getting the thread to roll off nicely, I tried masking tape but it is still uneven....any help ??

Thanks...It was great to meet Tom, Putter, Mike etal... did leave with 4 blanks at awesome prices too....

To quote Greg..."It was a Blank Robbery !!!"

Thanks for all who worked to make Charlotte Happen !!!

I've done a lot of these. I made some paper templates for getting that first cut at the right angle. Easier to work with paper and cut it correctly.

As far as getting a thread wrap on the end of the cork, wrap from the blank up to the cork, not down off of it. Sand the end of the cork edge with an emory board or sanding block to create a shallow taper. Not at all unlike what you do on the ends of your guide feet. Wrap up the cork and put some back angle on the thread so it packs back against itself. I have also done a double wrap here for a more uniform look and color. The cork will compress somewhat so you won't get a bulge, even with two layers of thread.

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I cut the angle of the tape before putting it on....one complete turn around the edge of the reel seat and the tape will meet itself...no further trimming required. You can fill in the gap between the end of the tape and the blank with epoxy, making a tapered angle for the thread to easily climb on. You might have a easier time cutting the tape in a perfect circle by putting a couple of wraps of masking tape on and then laying the blank on a table or the floor and then roll it while holding your blade against the edge of the tape. I did this all the time before I acquired a lathe...it is a lot easier to cut if you don't have to hold it and cut at the same time. Sorry I missed you at the show...

Use masking tape to mark the circumference of blank onto onto the masking tape. Remove the masking tape with the marks, and lay masking tape onto cork tape so that masking tape traverses cork tape diagonally, align the circumference marks on each edge of the cork tape and cut with a sharp razor along edge of masking tape.

What you have is a freshly cut edge on the cork tape whose demensions equals that of the circumference of the blank. This allows you to butt the cork tape up to the reel seat.

When you reach the butt section of the rod just trim away. The "upper end" of the foreward cork wrap - wrap a turn or two of 1/4" masking tape so that is perfectly overlays itself. Use this layer of tape as the template of material to "shave away" with a sharp razor. This is where the cork tape tapers onto the blank. I generally take care not to nick the blank at this point, use more of a slicing motion with the razor. Use "D" thread to bind the ends of the cork tape down.

Lou

I used a wood paint paddle with a 1" wide X 8 " piece of 3M non skid tape (selfadhesive) as a large emory board to taper the front edge while turning in machine. keep skid tape back 1/8 th from edge of paddle to protect blank also use masking tape on Blank

Sprial the tape against the rod 'dry' and draw a mark across the join between the spirals. Remove from rod and drwa a line between the two marks and cut against this line. The beginning of the tape will now be perfectly square at the top of the tape wrap. I use this method when applying 3m safety walk grip tape to surf rods and it's foolproof.

Ya know I got so frustrated trying to get those lines even (before using John Becker's method) that I opted for a ring of EVA that would slide tight up against the reel seat , cover the end of the cork tape 3/4" wide (and also provide the tension to keep the cork in place). Once in place I sand the EVA to the height of the reel seat, taper it off to the cork and call it a day. Similar to the construction technique that you'll see on TICA rods. On the upper end - much as Tom has described I smooth off the cork tape as best as I can then put on a coat or two of guide epoxy, allow that to dry, over wrap with thread and finish as I would a guide wrap.

Ken, Where can you get those Eva rings like on the tica ???

Great Idea !!

I think I've seen them on MudHole's site - I know they are available from Merrick. I just turn them on the rod on the lathe. Lots of times
I'll also use a combination of a single cork ring and a piece of EVA with the cork against the reel seat and the EVA as a lead to the cork tape as it requires less precise hole diameter than cork does to conform to the diameter cork tape.

Shucks -- I forgot to add that you can also use a "hosel" against the reel seat that will leave a nice finished look with less mucking about. MudHole and American Tackle both have large bore, thick hosels .

The short EVA grips that come on Tica rods are available at ReelsandEels.com....They are on the sponsors list...nice folks there.