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New info for users of Klass Kote paint
Posted by:
Don Davis
(199.173.225.---)
Date: March 04, 2005 10:32AM
I just finished a rod using the results of some experiments I conducted. As you know Klass Kote is a 2 part epoxy paint that is as thin as a varnish. In the past I have been using 2 to 3 coats of clear with gloss catalyst. The big news is that the Klass Kote satin catalyst doubles as a color preserver, at least on medium to dark threads. I tried lots of practice wraps using combinations of satin and clear catalyst, varying the coats, degrees of thinning, and applying. Here is the winning method I used on this project:
Thread: REC garnet 00 silk Finish: Klass Kote clear with satin catalyst for 2 undercoats, clear with gloss catalyst as a top coat 1) The first coat of satin catalyst and clear was lightly thinned. The satin must be thoroughly stirred or shaken. Starting at one end, I applied a light flood coat with the flat of a plastic, tapered palette knife. Staying with the wrap, I dried the knife on a coffee filter, then removed as much finish as would come off with the knife. The knife has two sides and is long, so the finish comes off pretty quickly. Inspecting with a magnifying lens, any remaining micro-fuzzies can be laid down into the undercoat with the knife and a litte extra finish. Did all the wraps in turn and let dry 24 hours. Threads appear dull, but evenly coated with the gaps still very visible. No turning. 2) The next coat same as the first, but thinning not required. Threads now 3/4 filled and a light sheen appearing. No turning. 3) Last coat gloss catalyst and clear. Let the mixture sit for 45 minutes before using, no thinner. The mixture is the consistency of a heavily thinned light build epoxy. This coat was applied with a strip cut lengthwise from a gray closed foam brush about 3/4 the width of the wrap. The finish was added at the top of the wrap. Excess wicked away from the bottom. Fillet onto blank. More finish can be added to the top, and leveling can be encouraged by dapping the straight edge of the brush onto the unlevel segment. The completed blank was placed on a 7 rpm drying motor. The results are very encouraging. The thread retained its original color, and the amount of finish just barely covers the wraps while providing a near perfectly level finish. No bubbles, no fuzzies. Minimalist. And unlike varnish, accomplished in 3 coats. I also tried a couple of coats of colored Klass Kote paint on a blank. The finish seems very scratch resistant. If you happen to have a spray rig, this looks like an easy method of painting a blank. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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