I'm resigned to go to an auto body paint shop to have my blank painted.(more professional)
Do i need to supply my own paint (plasti-kote-whatever) or let them use what they use for the cars?
Please help!
I read Ken P's web directions for DO it Yourself (pigmented epoxy applied with fingers etc.) and I'm sure I'd rather have the blank sprayed.
I was told I could do it myself with Plast-kote- 2 part- BUT- when I went to buy it, I was confused as they have a hundred differant kinds! (which one?)
I also read the info in the glossary on this web site for refinishing blanks and,I've done the seach thing for "refinishing rods etc.........I'm at a loss.
I got some decent graphite blanks last weekend,that have no finish on them. I've used the scotch brite so they have a nice water break surface
(I know prep is as -if not more -important than finish).
just need to get the colour and protective finish applied. but what to use?
help, help, help, help!!!!

If your going to paint yourself, you need to use Duplicolor / Platicote (either / or), Auto Paint (not the regular spray paint) and then Clear Cote same as the paint. Make sure you let dry a couple days before trying to wrap on it.

Bill in WV

Hi Eric my name is Dan. I've asked the guys that work at the local paint supply store in my neighborhood the same question. They recommend using a Poly Urethane base pigment and clear coat as well. I would mix a flex agent into both as also. According to what they are telling me Urethane finishes are the most flexible of the automotive finishes. Plus you can choose from probably thousands of different shades. There is only one problem though, since the paint would have to be mixed you'll have to buy a minimum amount. Which will probably be alot more than you would need for one blank. By me the smallest amount that I can buy would be .5 Pint. The store by you may only mix 1 pint you will have to ask. I trust the info these guys have given me as they supply most of the Automotive Body Repair shops in the area. If you are in good with a local body shop you might be better off having them spray it for you or maybe even get a basic color that they may have left over after doing a paint job. If you decide to do it yourself you will need an Automotive touch up spray guy, an air compressor, air regulator, in line water traps a whoe bunch of stuff plus a hat curing lamp would help. If you already have everything you need spay the base coat (color) first let it cure than spray the clear coat over it. I think that the clear coat has a UV filter or protectant as they are put on cars to keep the base from fading and oxidizing but I'm not 100% positive about that . You might want to ask about that as well. Anyway I have not used this setup yet but I hope to soon. So according to what I hear Poly Urethane is the way to go.
BEST OF LUCK TO YOU Hope I was able to help
DAN

Eric - If having an automotive paint & body shop coat these "decent graphite blanks ... that have no finish on them" proves to be unworkable logistically, then you can clear coat them yourself with PermaGloss. You can apply by brush or use a pull-thru cup / sponge / bag technique, and hang vertically. If you go that route, re-post asking for details on the pull-thru technique, and, I'm sure, you'll get enough Replies to walk you thru it. Best Wishes, Eric. -Cliff Hall, Gainesville, FL.-

eric,

from my experience, it was a very easy process. I used krylon paint (two coats) and a finish coat of Testors dull-cote (for a matte finish). If you want a gloss finish, krylon has a clear coat also. Let each coat dry very well in between coats and let the final coat dry 8-12 hours and you should not have any problem whatsoever. The process I used seems to be consistent with all the help that I got from the phorum and ken p. via e-mail. You should really try to do one of the blanks yourself, you will really enjoy it.

Eric, this is what the Plasti-kote can looks like. They are the colors of any car that is on the street. called touch up paint
You can either look at the tops and pick a color, or get the number from the site and get it
[www.plasti-kote.com]

There are some other choices out there. Some easier to work with than others.

Krylon for Plastic and Rust-o-leum for plastic- They work ok but I have trouble with being a little heavy handed with the coats.

Appliance Epoxy Spray Paint- Same, same

Bottled Auto Touch-up Paints- What I am working with now as I broke down and purchased an air brush. Blendable, thinable, you can add flex addatives, flash, sparkle, etc.

VERY new to this sort of thing myself. I have NEVER built a rod from scratch, just rebuilds, but I am learning.

Derek

Eric. Klass Kote epoxy paint (sponsor) should work like a charm. Works best if sprayed. I guess you could do one coat of color and one clear (the same stuff you use for wrapping) or 2 of color.

Eric, I watched Ken Preston color a blank in Charlotte this past weekend. Even spread on some color myself, and it seemed PRETTY EASY with good results. My suggestion would be to try Kens method on an old blank and see for yourself before going to the trouble and expense of spraying it yourself or having a paint shop do it. Probably BIG $$$. Just my .02
Wayne T. Dye
Six Mile Creek Rods

Good suggestions one and all-Thank youse guys for all the info!
I have a number of blanks that need to be painted and or surfaced,
guess I'll try most of what I've read here.
Thank YOU bill b for the link....that was exactly the info I was looking for!
Now the fun begins ;^)

Here is another one that might help [www.minwax.com]