howdy all. of course i choose THIS weekend to apply my new decal connection alignment dots...

can anybody offer the basic instructions posted by decal connection at their site as well as tips or advice you've developed?

i'm using a mac computer and have tried three different web browsers and none allow me to view the rod builders area or what might be the decal instruction page.

how close do you trim the "dots" (they're very small diamonds), how long do you soak the water slide paper, etc.

thanks

eric
fresno, ca.

Eric, check you email. there is no instructions for applying the alignment dots but I would cut them about quarter inch depending on the blank section.

thanks myles! i really appreciate you sending the instructions.

eric
fresno, ca.

Hi Eric! I use DC waterslide decals almost daily, and have found a few extra "lessons learned"...
1. medium-warm but NOT HOT water is better than either very hot or cold water.
2. when applying on a matte/satin blank, put a coat of finish down first as instructed but LET THAT COAT CURE at least overnight...i.e. more than the normal 4hrs, etc...the decals slide best if the finish is at least 24hrs "old".
3. LS Supreme, my favorite finish, can want to pull away from the decal unless you apply a fhin coat of FLEX COAT CP first and let dry. Of course, this "pulling away" only happens after you've checked it for the first couple hours and are satisfied everything is going to be perfect...your best job ever! (purely speculating, of course. No experience in this whatsoever). NOT! ;)

Probably a few other things, too, but I'm being paged by my better half and must run. Let us know how it turns out!

thanks john! actually, i've put it off for tomorrow, sunday, maybe.

i am affixing this DC water slide alignment "diamond" to a forecast blank, so it's glossy, not matte or satin. from your personal experience is a base coat of finish still required? i read from myles' forwarded instructions that it's recommended, but they do not specify any difference between glossy or other blank finishes.

and i'm using flex coat's lite formula, for two or more coats.

any further tips or advice from anyone will be JOYFULLY received. seriously. ;-)

eric
fresno, ca.

Eric, on a gloss blank I skip the base coat finish only do it on a matt blank if I think it's needed.

With a gloss blank, you don't need to put down a coat of finish, though I usually do. It adds some depth and the thicker the finish, the more of a floating look you get.

Also, do not soak the decal in the water. One quick dip and that's it. If the backing starts to look dry, put a drop of water on it from your finger. You want to use as little water as you can. If you use too much water/too much time with the water, the glue starts to dissolve. This will give the decal a white haze when you put it on.

Please feel free to call or email us if you ever have any questions. I know that some people say you can skip the coating process if it is a glossy blank. There could be times where you may not need to coat a glossy blank but you never know when that may be. This is not true is many cases. There are many imperfections on every rod blank which could show up as a cloudiness under the decal. We feel it is better to be safe then sorry.

Greetings from Scotland.
I find this thread very interesting because I am having big problems with my waterslide decals !
The first problem is when I coat the decal with CP it creates a cloudy finish so I have stopped doing this. The second problem is blotches appear in the label after application and the third problem is that when I coat the decal with epoxy it contracts whilst drying and the letters appear raised in a zig-zag fashion.
I am tearing my hair out here guys ! Can anybody help ?!!! PLEASE !
Och Aye
Mick