Hello all
I'm new to this site so I hope I do this right. My question is has anyone used silk thread for graphite rods and if so, does it work ok? Also has anyone used spar varnish instead of the basic 2 part low build finishes?
The silk thread comes in a lot smaller sizes making it easer to do very fine tipping and design wraps.
and the spar varnish can be put on thinner ( I hate bulky looking wraps) so the wraps look much nicer
Thanks in advance for your help, I love this site, lots of very useful info here.
Thanks
Brian

Spar Varnish is all I use as I HATE two part epoxies. No matter how hard I try I can never get the mix perfect. I use Future Floor Acrylic as a color preserver as well (school is still out on that one).

I thin the Varninsh with mineral spirits until it is the consistency of nonfat milk and then apply it with an airbrush. Looks good, easy clean up.

Don't know anything about silk thread though I am afraid.

Derek

Search teh archives. I'm sure you'll get some responses on this thread, but I know this questin has been asked several times already - you might find more info in teh archives.

Brian. I use 2/0 silk on graphite as 3/0 is just a tad fragile for my taste. I sometime use Varathane 900 for its color preserving qualities as an undercoat, but generally prefer Klass Kote epoxy paint for the final finish. Klass Kote is a paint and goes on like a varnish. It can be thinned, or allowed to thicken in the pot. No bubbles or polishing. A pot life of hours. Two coats of regular strength K K finishes pretty well. I am experimenting to achieve an even better result and will post my results soon. I will reveal that the satin catalyst acts as a color preserver, although you must still use the gloss catalyst for the final coat.

Brian, I've recently begun to use Pearsalls silks on graphite rods and have been really pleased with the results - the finer thread appears to have been 'poured' onto rod and the subtle variations in the colour of the silk comes out too. So far I've only used Flex Coat CP under one thin coat of epoxy and that has worked really well. I guess I was initially attracted to silk because Pearsalls make a couple of great greens that are unlike anything I've been able to find in nylon. Jim

Hi Brian,
I'm wrapping a Lamiglas fiberglass fly rod right now using Pearsalls Gossamer - I chose white to get a clear wrap - it works great. Next up is a 11 foot 5 weight graphite blank from CTS - I'll be wrapping that one with silk also but the Gossamer is VERY thin so I'll be using Naples instead. I dont think silk is better or worse - just different which is why "we" build our own rods - right ?
I disagree that silk will make it easier to make fine tippings etc - I can hardly see the d.... thread so I wouldnt use the words silk and easy in the same sentence... ;-)
I've never used two part finishes so its varnish for me - on silk and nylon.
One piece of good advice I got from Mr. Harry Boyd and that I would like to pass on to you is to wet the first part of the silk thread when you start wrapping - it get a much better grip on the blank making it easier to start you wrap.

Peter
I know what you mean. I usually hold the tag end until I am over at least twice

Why don't you put a piece of tape to hold the tag end until you cross the thread 3 or 4 wraps? Takes about 1 second to place and remove.

Anyone who wants to see brown (chestnut) silk on a matte finish graphite rod finished with two part epoxy and "mottled" to match the wood handle trim pieces can stop by and see me in Charlotte, then take it over to the pond and cast it.

Hi, Brian; Silk and varnish work just as well on graphite or glass as they do on bamboo, and have a richness and depth that nylon and epoxy can't match (in my opinion). The only drawback to silk is that it's relatively non-elastic,and therefore is more prone to break and fray than nylon. Piersall's Gossamer is pretty much the gold standard; it's fine diameter gives a beautiful appearance but it's also most likely to need some re-wrapping after a few years of hard service. If you like the look, go for it. We're rod-builders..we can always re-wrap. Barry

thanks for all the info guys. Its really nice to have a site like this where if I have a problem I have a bunch of people willing to help me out.
thanks very much.
Brian
Well it s off to rod #7 with varnish and possibly silk to.