Trying to get a 6 inch or so area finished, but I can't seem to get a good level job. Using LS Supreme high build.

What's the secret?

One way, and a relatively easy way. is to put more epoxy on than needed. Then, don't use a motorized dryer, at least at first. Leave the rod stationary, but perfectly level (use a carpenter's level to test). After a minute or two, epoxy will sag at the bottom, even drip off if you wait too long (not a problem if you put foil underneath). Pull off this excess epoxy with a brush or spatula. Wait briefly, then rotate the rod 180 degrees. Let the epoxty sag again, remove, wait, rotate 180. The amount of time between rotations will gradually increase. When there is no more noticeable sagging, place in a dryer, or just continue to rotate by hand, still 180, but without removing anything. This method works by self-leveling, because the epoxy will sag the most where there is the most to be removed.

Aaron I use regular LS Supreme and of course I put it on in thin layers, but still I used to have problems with it staying level all the time, until I started using a wide blade, paint scraper, 4 inch or larger, preferably metal but plastic will work, but I can keep the finish application an even thickness by using the scraper against the rod ,either revolving on the dryer motor or turning by hand and have had good success. This only takes a few seconds and this ensures that the layer of finish is truly on the blank level rather than the dryer keeping it concentric, by rotation, the scraper redistributes or takes off the excess amount as you go. You can still apply the finish on the rod with a brush or spatula, and use the scraper as a final step. Just a method that works for me. Good luck

I do like Galen only I use a playing card. The nice thing about the (besides the cost for 52 of them) is that they can be cut the length of your wrap

Mike

Tom Doyle has the right answer for you!
To obtain a smooth level finish you need to have the proper amount of epoxy applied and the easiest way to do that is to over apply it and remove the epoxy that sags. Different epoxies have different characteristics and need be applied in amounts peculiar to each particular epoxy. The surface tension of epoxies vary and drive the need for finding the proper application. Having tried many epoxies I am a firm believer that LS Supreme high build is easiest of all to obtain a level surface with. Having said that when you find an epoxy that works well for you stick with it.

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

The easiest way I've found is to use a credit card (like the ones you get in the mail wanting you to use their bank). Rotate the rod or let the dryer rotate it for you. Rest the edge of the card against the blank. The excess epoxy will be removed from the high areas but will remain in the lower areas to give you an even finish. I usually do this with the second coat so as not to disturb wraps from the pressure (even though it's very light) of the card. Wipe excess on paper towel and reuse the card.
Jeff

Aaron,

I was going to send you an email but your address is hidden.

With the rod rotating away from you, use a credit card and hold lightly against the back top of the wrap/rod.
This will level up the coating. Let the rod dry by rotating by hand or with a dryer motor.

I find it easier and less trouble to use the dryer motor. I level with the credit card in my lathe and then move the rod.

Larry R. Tysinger

For the builders that have been around this board for some time is not new to read about the Credit Card method for this purpose. But, I have been using a very similar method than the one Tom Doyle describes here, with less accuracy. That is, I never really check when the blank is 180º, just put the epoxy sagging facing down until it drips to foil. This could be as low as 30º !!!
Sometimes, when I am finishing leveling the epoxy, I won´t even need to rotate the blank anymore, just let it dry. Not much of a work if You really enjoy rod bulding.
Since Tom here described in detail and with mathematical accuracy this method, I think we can call it the "Tom Doyle´s Method".

Enjoy working with epoxy...

Aldofito: Thanks for the compliments, but it is definitely not my method. I learned the essentials of it right here on this board. Tom Kirkman, among others, has described it. These tricks get passed around until they become "our methods."

What do you credit card guys do with 14" long areas?

Not for LS - slop on a heavy coat, heat it, sand it with 180 then 220, apply a light coat over that. This is what I've been doing recently on my butt wraps - basically applying 3 heavy coats to fully cover the threads, then sand it with a sanding block, wipe with denatured & a rag - one more thin coat over that., some heat - all finished. Just note it you're not careful you run the risk of sanding too far and fuzzing threads which will result in at least 2 more coats & a repeat of this process.

Tom Doyle: I wasn´t exactly stating a compliment, I was trying to put a name to it so we all recognized it from no on, like the Credit Card Method, I am sure it is someone else´s method.
Somehow, when digging into history, almost all methods seem to end or pass by TOM KIRKMAN. I admitt that is amazing, and it is no compliment.

Let´s keep learning!