I get vinyl decals here from a vendor in the NW for a very good price and quality. You cannot beat it. I recently ordered some and used them on a couple of my own rods. Because the blanks butt section is very small the decal wrapped half way around the blank. Ai had to consantly keep pushing down the corners to keep them seated. Finally they stayed so I thought. One of the corners popped up ever so slightly after applying the epoxy causeing a tiny bump. Irritating yes! Normaly I would strip it off and do it again, however the blank is green. If I strip it I will mess up the green coating. I guess it will have to just do since it is my own rod. Thank go it was not for a customer. That would have been a loss.

Besides rounding the corners on the decal as my other ones are, what can I do to prevent this? I have heard that you somehow can use water with the self adhesive vinyl decals. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank in advance,

David Banaka

If you can get the decal to stick, give it a shot of Krylon clear and let that dry. Coating with a epoxy finish won't lift it then.

Waterslide decals don't seem to have the "lifting" problem; at least I've never had it happen. Just printed four of them out to put on a few minutes ago.

Putter

I USE A P-TOUCH LABELER AND COAT WITH GUDEBROD 811. WITHOUT IT THE LABEL WILL RAISE WHEN YOU APPLY EPOXY.
KEITH

I USE A P-TOUCH LABELER AND COAT WITH GUDEBROD 811. WITHOUT IT THE LABEL WILL RAISE WHEN YOU APPLY EPOXY.
KEITH

I USE A P-TOUCH LABELER AND COAT WITH GUDEBROD 811. WITHOUT IT THE LABEL WILL RAISE WHEN YOU APPLY EPOXY.
KEITH

Where do I get water slide blank decals or sheets and what kind of printer are you using?

Thanks,

David Banaka

try decal connection to the left and click on supplies

Vinyl lettering will have some disadvantages for use on fishing rods. Decal Connection and Rod Blanks.Com both offer nice water slide decals. They're far superior, cost very little, and the sizes and styles are up to you.

...........

I get my waterslide decal paper from Decal Connection (sponsor on the left). I bought an Alps MD-1000 printer which prints in metallics; including silver and gold. It is also a pretty high quality photo printer, although I just use my HP 5550 printer for that. I had to get the printer on @#$%&; no US company has them for sale that I know of...

Regular inkjet printers don't work for this decal purpose; save yourself some time and trust me on this one.

Jimi Ellis of Decal Connection is wonderful to work with; he has two different types of this waterslide decal paper, both of which work great, along with some Micro Sol and Micro Set liquids that help with the decal installation. He has some pretty good instructions on his website on how to install the decals; you have to write these down, though, as you can't right click and save anything from his website. :>( Jimi will be at the big show in Charlotte, too, and I'll be coming home with a bunch more decal paper as I'm gettin' low!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2005 03:05PM by Randy Parpart (Putter).

I like to put a coat of finish over the area where a sticker is going to go before I apply the sticker. I let the finish set to the point where it is quite firm, yet tacky. For me, 3 1/2 to 4 hours in my drying box at 90 degrees. At that point when you put the sticker down, its down! My logo is a custom dry transfer with some very fine lines. I used to ruin 1 - 3 transfers before I got one on perfectly. Since switching to the "tacky finish" method, I haven't ruined any.



Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

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