I built a rod last year and everything was looking good untill I put the FC on. I went a ahead and used it anyway, but know I would like smooth out those bumpy wraps if possible. I use two coats of FC regular. I know it is going to be pretty thick. Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks
Josh

Josh, as has been discussed many times on this board, one of the biggest reasons for wavey or bumpy wraps is applying the finish to heavy. To prevent this, always apply your finish in thin coats.

I use FC light on most all my rods, and use to want to try to cover and get a deep finish in one coat, but learned the hard way, that 2 light coats were much more professional looking.



Regards......Doug@
TCRds

Doug, is there anyway to fix these wraps now.

Thanks
Josh

Josh, I did the same thing, on a rod with very expensive parts, and my first one to boot. I tried sanding the wraps down, but its very difficult with the bump at the foot. Not so hard on butt wraps, but still easy to get into the threads. I found a very fine file worked well, but be carefull not to tip it or you'll nick the finish where you dont want to. I never got that one were I liked it, it hangs on my ceiling to remind me to use light coats, and take plenty of time. Respectfully, Levi

Josh,

Can't help you much except to mention that you CAN'T fix it by adding more finish. All you will do is make bigger bumps as the finish will just flow over the bumps. If you can sand it level without getting to the threads, that would be the way to go. I'm assuming this is a butt wrap and if so, you might want to consider sanding it smooth and rewrapping.

Mike

As Doug says, don't put on too heavy a coat. One way to get it right is to not use a rod drying motor for the first 30-45 min or so. After the epoxy is on, let the blank stand (as level as possible, use a level and shim one support or the other with magazines, etc.) for a few minutes, until epoxy collects on the bottom. Remove this excess epoxy with a brush or spatula, then turn 180 degrees, let it collect again, remove, etc., until an appreciable amount no longer collects. Then put the rod in a dryer, or just continue turning by hand with 180 degree rotations, but without removing any more epoxy. The epoxy should then self-level nicely.

Your bumpy finish may also be the result of fish-eyes, because you may have touched the first coat with your hands or otherwise contaminated the surface with oil. To some extent you can improve things by carefully sanding and applying a new coat, but it will be hard to get it perfect. I'd just keep fishing that one and build another.

Tom's got it down pat!!! I now turn my finish by hand for the first 45 - hour before turning on the dryer and the quality is MUCH better.

Mike

Josh as Levi and Mike have said, you can try and sand the wraps smooth.

If you decide, that's what you want to do, I have found that "Sanding Sticks" work very well. You can get them at most any hobby shop. They are used for lightly sanding plastic and wood model parts. They come in different grits for about 1.00 each.

Before finding the sanding sticks, I use to glue 400 grit paper to popsickle sticks and use for the same purpose.

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

Doug,

Great idea! Another trip out n the cold to the hobby shop. How about the Nail file Emory boards???

Mike

Hey Mike! Have yet to try them, but I don't see why they wouldn't work. The sanding sticks have a foam sandwiched between both sides of the grit and are capable of easily being trimmed to suit your needs. The foam also prevents you from bearing down and removing to much material at one time.

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

Sounds good. Thanks for the tip!!! What a great Forum!! Thanks again, Tom, for providing it!!!

Mike

Interesting thing - I spoke briefly with Ralph O'Quinn yesterday afternoon. He's just moved into a new house and doesn't have room for his drying unit anymore. So he said he's been doing without a dryer/rotator of any sort and just turning the rod 180 degrees by hand every few minutes. He commented that he's getting the best finishing results he's had in 40 years. Said he didn't think he'd ever again use a drying/rotating unit and wondered why it took him so long to discover the difference.

This alone won't solve your problem - you're applying too much. But at some point you'll learn where there point of enough, but not too much is. I don't use thin coats, but neither do I put on so much that lumps and sags form. There's a window in there and within a few rods you'll discover where it is.

..................

Thanks for all the input. As you can probably tell I am a novice rod builder, and the rod i was speaking of was my first . I will be building 2 more this winter so all the tips help. Thanks again for the great advice, and the great resouce for the novice.

Josh Anderson
Bozeman, MT

cann't help this time but next time put a coat on and spin for ten minutes then use a hair drier while it spinning. this will thin the fc and it will sag and bring any bubbles.take off the extra fc. this give me a thin first coat and no bumps.
c.p.

Hi Jose As mentioned earlier it sound like you have added to much finish . What you must remember is if you add more finish on a alred lumpy finish all you well gt is bigger lumps. What I do isaddfinish then look at the bottom side of a turning blank. By looking at the bottom of the rod you can see the sags. and wicke them off by runing your brush horizonaly along the wrap and move the lumps in to the hollows.. Move the brush only on one direction. I hpe this helps
Good Wraps Bob

I would not use a hair dryer, you can blow contaminates on to the finish. If you must use heat use a alcahol buner or a butain torch.
Good Wraps Bob

I agree with Bob; no fans around finish-not even the little one in a hair dryer. These are nice for removing old finish with my thumbnail, but I wouldn't recommend them around fresh finish. Sooner or later it's gonna bite ya...

Putter

Use plumbers torch, don't be afraid put bigger flame at about 15' when rod turning, additional heat helps coat get even, sometimes forms a drip which is not necessary to remove (you may result too thin coating ) when torch is off coat thickens and drip gets picked up evenly. I used AMTAC recently, which was thicker than FC (thin ) but with heat spread pretty good. consider using torch for heating air temperature around ..... if not sure you can check T next to wrappings by your palm.... should be able withstand......