I have done some really nice spiral wraps and I am a believer.Is there any problems doing a spiral wrap on a telescoping rod?
Thanks Sam

None. The first guide still has to be far enough up the rod so that you can fully collapse the tip section, of course.

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Tom my concern was that the top of the rod might twist on a hook set.This will be a heavy jig rod.

A spiral wrapped rod will actually prevent the top from twisting - the guides will be in line with your hook set, not 180 degrees opposite it as they would be on a conventionally wrapped rod.

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Speaking not by experience but by speculation: As long as the ferrules are able to resist rotating, things should be fine.

Actually, a telescoping rod's ability to so easily adjust the angle of the guides is a great way to demonstrate the optimum position of the guides in the transition zone. You won't be able to vary the distance between the guides, but adjusting the angle will be something you can do upon each re-assembly. By flexing the rod with line running thru the guides, and only loosely fixing the segments in the transition zone (but firmly fixing the segments in the underside zone) you can immediately tell what the angles should be in the transition zone. The line will automatically push the guides into a position of lesser resistance / torque.

How many segments (N) will this rod have, anyway?

It sounds like you may have to make the jump from top-to-bottom thru just one guide anyway (using a 0, 90, 180 degrees, or a 360, 270, 180 degrees scheme). Unless there are at least 5 segments / pieces, there wouldn't be enough guides to transfer the line from above to below the rod blank before it reaches the rod tip.

One piece for the handle.
One piece for the butt guide.
One piece for the transition guide.
One piece for the first underside (180') guide.
N-5 pieces for the next N-5 ("remaining") underside guides.
One piece for the tip-top.

This may be one situation where the use of single-foot guides really is superior to any double-foots, so that you can have maximum collapsabilty. (Do you expect the guide's foot to be able to recess into the lower segment?) Low-frame, single-foot, single-leg guides (like fly guides) may work well. Or the medium-height V-frame, single-foot, double-legs may be better. The V-frames may do a better job of keeping the line off the blank without introducing too long a lever arm for torque to develop. Or maybe use V-frames for the first 3 guides, then fly-rings out to the tip-top.

By the way, is this a home-made telescoping blank, or a commercial one?

An interesting question, Sam, I hadn't seen before. Best Wishes, -Cliff Hall-

Don't see why there would be a problem at all. In fact, what sold me on the idea was a cheap commercial telescoping casting setup that I keep in my motorcycle.

If not fully extended to a "locking position", the guides had a tendency to flip to the bottom under load. Noting that it still worked, and felt better, I didn't worry about it. In fact, I preferred it. It wasn't until I started hanging out in here that I discovered that folks were deliberately wrapping rods this way, for the same reason.

I may be mistaken , but I thought Sam ras referig to a flipping stick , they are a 2 peice -slip out telescoping rod ??
Either way I think that the info Tom mentioned is the right explanation as far as the section of rod spinning out of place goes. The guides will be on the bottom with exeption to the transition guides , making the top section less likely to twist out of position...... John