Looking for some recommendations on an inexpensive lathe. It would be used only for shaping cork handles, so all the bells and whistles are not necessary.

Thanks,

Chris

The Grizzly hobby lathe is good for cork handles. Used to be $39.95 but it the new catalog is $44.95 without the drill. If you don't have a 1/2" variable speed drill Grizzly has one for $39.95.

www.grizzly.com

Chris,

Grizzly is a good inexpensive lathe, but if you do a search here for lathe you will find pages of helpfull info.

Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.

I have the Grizzly and it is fine for turning cork. If I were ordering again, I would buy a drill from Grizzly to fit the drill mount. The part of the drill that holds the chuck needs to be an inch long. I have a Champion drill that fits just right.

Grizzley would be an excellant choice for what you want

[www.grizzly.com]


Mike

Guys,

Thanks, that looks like a hard price point to beat.

How do you go about attaching items for shaping?? Is there a special chuck you can buy or amke yourself??

chris

Chris: That lathe works best with mandrels. The working length of the lathe bed is only about two feet. Andy Dear at Lamar sells mandrels, different diameters, get at least the 1/4" size. The tailstock has a live center and the mandrels are tooled to fit that. After turning on the lathe, you then ream the handles to fit the blank. This is descrobed in Tom K's book, though I think he's using a different lathe.

Mike Barkley devised a way to hold a rod blank, using a second headstock (purchased separately) and a wheel bearing (ditto). Works only on blanks before the guides are attached. I'm trying to figure out a way to use it with a completed rod, for replacement of cork butts, which I do a lot. No luck yet.

But, the Grizzly is a great tool. Best part is it's light enough to be portable, do your turning outside, no mess.

Here is the Grizzley set up on a base for portability
[www.fishingphotos.net]

HJere is a pix of an extra drill holder fitted with an ATV wheel bearing
[www.fishingphotos.net] here is link to the right bearing (about $5)
[www.mfgsupply.com]
I just ordered an extra base tht the drill piece fits int and put the bearing ibto (a piece of masking tape shim was needed) and when I want to use it, I just switch out the tailstock with it. Just wrap masking tape arount the part of the blank that will be in the bearing so that it is a tight fit! On a loner blank, uou can hang a towel over the long end to prevent it from "whipping".

This set up was originall done by Ladd Flock and I just copied it

Mike





Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/09/2005 04:09PM by Mike Barkley.

Guys,

Phenomenal info!!! Thanks.

I have always avoided making my own handles because I thought the cost of the lathe put it out of my reach.

Just thinking out loud here, but would this work. I like the idea of turning the handles while on the blank. 95% of the fly rods I build are 8 weight or larger. On every one I use the Pac Bay removable fighting butt set up, so I can switch the butts between sticks. Could I use a blank fighting butt mandrel as a point to attach into the drill?? And then turn my grips..

thanks again,

chris

I'm not familiar with them, but if fits, I don't see whay not! I hust use an ils drill bit with masking tape around it. Stick it in the butt of the blank and chuck it up.

I have to say that I build my grips on a mandrel and then ream/mount them. What I use this setup for is the times when I have already installed the grip and I want to modify/reshape or sand the grip some more

Mike

I have a homeade setup I use that allows mandrel turning of cork on turning while on the blank (that is what I do). Here is a link to an article I wrote a couple of years ago about it. I now use a sewing machine motor instead of a drill, but it's all the same. WOrks great.
[globalflyfisher.com]