Fellow Rod Builders:

I've been building rods for 3 plus years and I have been constructing about 90% of the custom rods with custom designed cork handles. I am in the experimental mode of new patterns using inserts of rubberized cork, wood, and burl cork. I have constructed several handles with burl cork rings and the results have been very pleasing to my customers. I have also included the application of various wood stains in many of the most recent custom rod handles.

My questions for you "Pros" are:

1. Adhesion of cork to cork partial rings...what is the best product for adhesion.

2. Elimination of "lines" between cork partial rings...clamps used

3. Durability of "foam" inserts

4. Is there a standard thickness of wood inserts...Half Inch
maximum...but is an 1/8 inch too thin

5. Drill bits used to bore cork rings....Standard drill chips
more cork than cuts....Function of lack of drill speed or
lack of patience.... I've used the "Pilot" point drill bits
with more success, but need smaller sizes... Suggestions
welcome

6. Wood and Cork Ring combinations...hints and hazards

Hope these questions aren't too basic.

I have four custom cork handles in various stages of construction. I had challenges glueing the pieces and parts together. Two of the handles are ready to be bored/reamed to fit the rod blanks. The remaining two handles will incorporate wood inserts (haven't selected the wood stock yet).

Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated.

Michael Durgan
TMAC CUSTOM RODS

Hey Micheal,

1. Adhesion of cork to cork partial rings...what is the best product for adhesion.

I like to use Elmers wood glue for the partial rings.

2. Elimination of "lines" between cork partial rings...clamps used

Say..for a checkerboard ring...I cinch the circumfrance with a plastice wire tye then clamp the flat sides with a hand clamp.

3. Durability of "foam" inserts

Dont know that.

4. Is there a standard thickness of wood inserts...Half Inch
maximum...but is an 1/8 inch too thin

There is no standard...are you kidding?...LOL

5. Drill bits used to bore cork rings....Standard drill chips
more cork than cuts....Function of lack of drill speed or
lack of patience.... I've used the "Pilot" point drill bits
with more success, but need smaller sizes... Suggestions
welcome

I use a sandpaper reemer 36 grit on cork...paddle bits on wood.

6. Wood and Cork Ring combinations...hints and hazards

Have the wood parts at the desired thinkness BEFORE sanding and sand the cork till flush. The wood has more resistance and tend to make a hump.

Hope this helps.

I use Rod Bond for all adhesion needs. I use Ralph O's techique of applying then scraping it off (with an unsolicited credit card :) ). I leave only enough to give a consistently wet look across the entire surface. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by partial rings, but this technique consistently eliminates lines between rings and inside rings (checkerboarding).

On my lathe, I bore the ID of the rings to the smallest OD needed to fit the taper of the blank. For thin inlays of rubber, foam, etc, I use scizzors to cut the appropriate ID hole. I have a variety of sizes of all thread (coated with parrafin), washers and wing nuts that I use for clamps. I tension just enough to be firm (just before the cork starts to deform). I transfer to the appropriate sized Andy Dear mandrel for turning. After turning, I ream to fit the blank.

I have used craft foam in a variety of thicknesses and have had no problems with durability. Turning however is a different matter. The cut rate between the foam and adjoining materials can be significantly different so care in sanding is a must. Also, be careful of pressure and how long you keep the paper/sanding screen on the foam. I have seared some pieces.

I also check out auto supply and plumbing stores for gasket materials in different sizes and composites. Another source of composite cork for inlays is the cork sold in craft stores for coasters, bulletin boards, etc.

I think the the thickness is all a matter of the look you wish to achieve. To my eye, it is the pattern of repetition that is most important. I like to use patterns that contain odd numbers of inlays and contrast in colors and textures between the materials. This provides a "center" on which the eye can focus.

Thanks for your input Steve. I have tried two other adhesives but have found Rod Bond to be the best.

Your comments will help me make some decisions and progress.

Thanks,

Michael T. Durgan
tmaccustomrods.com

Michael,

I too prefer Rod Bond, scraping off before bonding. I have used craft foam in various thicknesses and really like it (if you use True Oil, etc for finish, test it on a tiny piece first. True Oil will darken very slightly, but on some very light colors, will slightly yellow it) I always wrap sandpaper around a flat piece of wood when sanding combinations of different material to get a smooth transition.

This is what I use for clamping cork



(Tom, I just put a link to the pix that I posted on the internet because the Photo Page is down right now. I will remove it in a couple days if that is alright with you)

Mike



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/05/2005 01:16PM by Mike Barkley.

I'll put in another vote for Rod Bond and for drilling cork rings, Forstner bits (available in all sizes) at about 1000 rpm.