I'm attempting my first butt wrap right now, just a simple open diamond pattern, much as shown in Tom K's book. Laying down one thread at a time. Having a devil of a time keeping the wraps tight. I have an "educated thumbnail" from a couple of years of guide wraps, but these threads won't stay put. This wrap is going on a bare blank, glossy and quite slick - is that the problem? There's a post somewhere below where someone says they scuff the blank first, should I do that? Or maybe an underwrap? If I do that, should I epoxy the underwrap first - if I do, I'd worry that I'd get oil from my hands all over that epoxy coat, with resulting fisheye problems with the next coat. Oh, the joys of being a beginner again! Help please.

What happens, is that when you cross the thread up onto any center, it tends to want to fall downhill, back away from the center. Thus, you see gaps opening up at various places, most notably around each center.

I recommend laying as many threads per pass as you can manage to cut down on the number of individual thread crosses at each center. If you know you have an area where you'll put down say, 8 blue threads, then I would lay them all at one time, or put down 4 and then 4 more, in the same direction, before starting on the opposing threads. You'll be amazed at how much neater your wraps will be if you do this.

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Tom beat me to the punch (as if!), but I was going to add that I always put down two threads at a time. I also make sure that the tension and angle that I am spiraling the thread around the blank is identical for each "lay down". Another thought, make sure that the threads that you tape to the blank at the starting point are as close or closer to one another as when you lay them down in the pattern. I, sometimes, even lay the thread packs of two nearly on top of one another when I tape them down, so that they remain tight and on center. You'll find that this helps if you have a pack of two threads that is "drifting on you" the tension and creeping of the subsequent threads will keep in inline depending on where you tape them down initially. (Hope that is clear enough)

Feels good to be able to give back about something finally! Hope that helps.

Domenic

Scoffing the area before you start to wrap will also help the threads to not slide as much. And a little better bond of your clear

I could explained it better than I did. Try this - you want to reduce the instances where threads cross each other on an individual basis. Lets say you have a band of 8 blue threads to put down. If you do this one at a time, and create a cross each time, you'll have 8 intersections or crosses. Now if you put all 8 down in the same direction without any crossing (one at time or all 8, doesn't matter as long as they all lie alongside each other instead of crossing) and then lay the next 8, you only have one intersection or cross. The thread will lie much flatter and you'll find that your gaps are a thing of the past.

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Gotcha. Ready to try again, and thanks. Have already unwrapped that first try.

Where do you live - try to visit a builder
to watch a few minutes - the lights will go
on real quick.

1. Do a chevron for the first few not a diamond.
Packing is all in one direction and it will be a lot
easier until you get the feel for correct tension.

2. Do an A underwrap first. The threads in the
pattern will not slide on the thread like they do on
a blank.

3. When pulling thread manually let your hand go
way back on the thread to pull tension and do not
let it start and stop by slipping through your thumb
and fingers - lets tension vary between crossings.

4. When pulling metallic thread use one and two thread
bands and apply slightly more tension than on nylon.

5. Be sure your center markings are correct so that you
do not have to adjust by changing directions while pulling
thread on the bank.

6. It will be easier if you do up and back with one thread
length and taping off on end of foregrip.

7. Set up your wraps so that you tie off and display the
patterns in the center. You will be cutting off the first
and last patterns because they may not be perfectly
straight - the ones in the center section of the wrap
are easier to pack and close all gapping.

8. I would not pull any band with more than eight threads.
Narrow bands of thead are easier to pack and are provide
distinct color variation with a minimum of shadowing due
to incomplete packing.

9. Use four ncp white threads to mark one inch centers
on small diameter rods and they will look quite nice.
For the first few it will not be necessarry to make
adjustments for blank taper. Top and bottom threads
marked the same and the ones on the side are staggered
1/2 inch - this will give you a nice looking pattern
on small diameter blanks.

10. If you use CP only to the crossings first with a tooth
pick. Wait a couple of hours and do the rest. The CP
will water soak the thread and the metallic threads will
lengthen and come loose if you do not tack the centers.

Learn how to make a pull from one end to the other with
constant tension without letting the thread slip through
your finger.

The best advice here is visit an experienced builder
and watch for a few minutes.

When you work thread wash your hands with a liquid
detergent - keep you shop clean - don't clean reels
and spray WD40 while a wrap is exposed - don't work
cork in the same room - if you take a break cover
wrap with Saran Wrap and most of all Don't Worry Be
Happy!! Fish eyes will all be in the water when you
get the rod done!!

Ain't this board a kick! Charlotte?

Good Luck

Gon Fishn