I've posted a message regarding materials I would need to begin. I've noted graphite arbors.

I've also seen that most of you recommend denaturalized alcohol as solvent, to clean epoxy from the blank or to thin finishes and glues.

Is this "denaturalized alcohol" methanol?. May I use isopropyl alcohol, too?. Is here any reason to use it or not?.

Although it's recommended in some books, I've also seen most of you do not recommend acetone. I magine it can damage the blank and certain plastic materials.

Let me know you opinio before I'll fill my home with unuseful solvents.

Daniel,
You may want to take a look at the FLex Coat arbors instead of the graphite ones, they are alot easier to use than the latter in my opinion.
The only thing I use to clean anything up on my rods is 91% Isopropyl alcohol. It should clean up anything we use to build these sticks. You can find it at most pharmacies around along with the other percentage alcohol (maybe 75% Isopropyl) fairly easily.
Yes Acetone can damage some finishes and is not good to use healthwise anyway so why risk it.
Hope this helps,
Noel

Denatured alcohol is ethanol, or basically the same thing you drink, made unpotable by the addition of chemicals, including methanol. I was in a discussion recently where it was pointed out that this product is known by a different name in the Great Britain and Australia, but for the life of me I can't remember.

Methanol is wood alcohol and is sold as such and under different trade names. While a strong solvent, methanol and its fumes are very hazardous to you.

As Noel notes, isopropyl will work also, its just not as strong a solvent,

When you speak of "solvents" you need to specify the class of product, as different solvents may be called for different classes of products.

As for cleaning up epoxy, you will find that plain old white vinegar will clean the epoxy from you and your rods with much less potential harm to you. Plus it is incredibly cheap.

Robert,
Vinegar!!! That is a new one on me. I know that it works well for cleaning other things like windows so why not. I am going to give that a try. Boy am I going to be POed at you though if I screw up a rod with it.

There are many Posts on this subject (Solvents, Alcohol, Acetone, etc.).
Here's a brief refresher and some definitions.

DENATURED ALCOHOL = 91% ETHANOL + 5% METHANOL + 4% WATER

ETHANOL = the "ALCOHOL" found in beer, wine & liquor.

METHANOL = the "WOOD" alcohol. Highly toxic when ingested.

ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL = the "rubbing alcohol". Usually 70% or 91%.

ACETONE = the "nail polish remover" ketone. Powerful solvent.

METHYL ETHYL KETONE = the "MEK" ketone found in brush cleaner.

ALCOHOLS and KETONES are different types of organic solvents.
Generally, alcohols are safer than ketones, and sufficently
strong solvents for most clean-up applications in rod building.
All organics solvents should be used with ventilation.
Skin contact should be avoided. All these solvents are flammable.

- Cliff Hall, @#$%&Chemistry & bench-top chemist for 14 years. -

For even more information, see the Thread:
"ACETONE? NOT on YOUR HANDS !!!" [Cliff Hall 10-19-04 03:01]
[www.rodbuilding.org]

If you are trying to read the Thread: "ACETONE? NOT on YOUR HANDS !!!" and that LINK ABOVE does not work, then use your mouse to COPY & PASTE this URL into your browser:

*[http://www.rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,118163,118163#msg-118163]*

*[http://www.rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,118095,118162#msg-118162]*

I don't know what happened in the first case, but these links should work. -Cliff Hall-.

Here in the UK ( and in Aus.) denatured alcohol is known as Methylated Spirits - Meths for short.

As well as Acetone, most nail polish removers are mainly composed of Esters - Butyl Acetate ( peardrops smell )and Ethyl Acetate.

Do not try to use nail polish removers as a de-greasing agent as they almost always contain an oil, such as Castor oil, to replace the natural oils which the solvents remove from the skin.

I will often use cellulose thinners (auto spray paint thinners) to de-grease or thin finish but only very sparingly (wipe on, wipe off) and never on any part of the blank which will be visible on the completed rod.