This is probably some stupid newbie problem but I'm on my third graphite rod and I can never get the finish over the inscription area to be even. I've tried Flexcoat High Build Two Part, Gudebrod Regular Build Two Part, and I've tried to smooth the whole shebang out with Gudebrod Speedcoat (aka Rod Restore) which totally @#$%& in my opinion because I haven't had that crap lay flat once. My guide wraps are fine but the finish over the inscription and feather inlay is always wavy. My working temperature is about 72 to 85 degrees with reasonable humidity and my drying motor is 4 rpm, rod building motor was made for varnishing guide wraps on cane rods. So what's up fellas? What am I botching up?

Most likely putting it on too thick. When putting finish on bare blank, it's harder to judge the thickness than when it's over thread, at least to me, since it's hard to "see" how thick it is. Just gotta keep wicking away the excess, more than you would on thread.

Tim,
I use Flex Coat High Build on heavier rods, Low Build on the lighter rods, just as you are and have found that it is somewhat a function of how much I put on, too much and I will have problems with it being nice and level and too little and I will also have problems. I think that you will just have to experiment a little until you find the right amount to apply. I usually go back over it with horizontal strokes after it has been on for about 15 minutes and then go over it with a bubble buster heating it just a little and then it will smooth out and come out nice and level.
I rotate my rods a little faster than you are, about 15 rpm, but I doubt that this will make much difference. I think that I would also suggest that you stick with one type of coating until you can work out the bugs and develope a technique that you are happy with.
Maybe some of the guys that really do beautiful work like Tom and Jim Upton will jump in with some advice.

I have tried the horizontal strokes and bubble buster but maybe I'm not being attentive enough. I doubt I'll ever use the speedcoat again but maybe I'll try the FC High Build again and just be more attentive. Usually I spen a few minutes with a plastic toohpick, which has been cleaned with denatured alcohol, a bubble buster, and brush trying to everything just so and it hasn't worked out yet. The rods I've built aren't hideous but the waviness is pretty annoying.

Thanks

I would guess that you are putting the finish on too heavy. Once it dries wavey, the only thing that additional coats will do is make it thicker and wavey unless you sand it smooth.

Make sure that your rod is perfectly level and apply it lengthwise over the area (just enough to cover).

Try doing it by hand. Turn the rod 180 when the finish starts to sag on the bottom (if it sags very much, wick it off). You'll probably have to do it every 5-10 minutes at first. Once it stops sagging and is nice and level (couple of hours) turn the motor on.

Mike

I agree with the others; you're probably putting it on a bit thick.
On your guide wraps, the reason they turn out is because a layer of your finish goes in around the threads, into the tunnels along the guide foot and that saves you.
On a bare blank, there's nothing to save you except getting the excess off.

Putter

So, is there any way to salvage finish that is wavy? I shudder when I think about using more speedcoat to try to even it out because the second coat I added didn't seem to help much and that coat was thinned slightly with water.

Tim, If you have the ability to turn the rod on a speed wrapper or lathe, you can sand it smooth and then just apply a light-enough coat of finish to fill the sanding marks. You should use 400 grit or higher paper, attached to a sanding block, and using very light, even pressure. Make sure you don't use silicon-based sand paper, else you risk contaminiating the new finish. If you don't have the ability or the equipment to fix it now, let it go until you do. It won't affect the rod's performance.

At some point, all you can do is block sand it to remove the waves, lumps and sags. Once you get it level, you can recoat with a thin epoxy layer to re-gloss it.

Start with around 220 grit if the finish is very thick, 320 if less so. then work up to 400 and even 600 if you have it. Then recoat.


...........

Tim,
Try this on your next rod going over the inscriptions. After delicately gobbing on the finish over the inscription, start at one end of the decoration with the brush planted on the rod and rotate the rod while slowly moving the brush to the other side of the decoration to create a spiral type effect with the epoxy. Once you've completed covering the whole decoration, go back over using long and gentle horizontal strokes. You should notice the epoxy evening out. At first it won't be totally even, but after another twenty seconds or so, it should look smooth as glass. You can use a ridiculous amount of epoxy like this and still get a smooth coat. It's worked for years for me and I hope it works for you!

Hello Tim
I will be at the Charlotte show demonstrating U40 products.
I suggest you try LS Supreme High Build. It has very good leveling characteristics. It will cover and level well over uneven long weaves, feather designs and inscriptions.
If you come to Charlotte drop by and I will demonstrate it or you may be able to try it your self.
To fix your uneven condition now do what Tom suggests to make sure and get a level finish no matter what epoxy you use. Experience and practice is the best teacher and you will develop a technique that works for you and your condtions. There are excellent articles on finsihes in the library and in past issues of Rodmaker that will help.

Regards Joe kassuba


His Rod Shop
Joe Kassuba

Hi Tim it looks like every one thinks you are putting to much on at 1 time. Number one you well never fill in craters by adding more finish. What I do is put a medium coat on making sure the blank is level and turning Next I add a little heat. Now look at the bottom side of the rod you well see a glob appear. wick this off horizontally until it looks flat, always look at the bottom side. Let the rod turn about 5 minutes then add a second coat and reheat the finish and wiick off any globs that appear always wipe in one direction horizontally. I use a butane torch. I place the blue flame in front of my hand, when I feel the heat with out burning my hand this is the distance I keep the flame from the finish. Also keep the flame moving and as soon as you see the finish moving take the flame away. and wiick off the blobs
Good Wraps Bob