Hey guys im asking questions sooner then expected lol but the books i received arent giveing me a real good explanatoin or directions on how to install cork grips =/ if someone could help me out id appreicate it thanks guys

Do you have Tom Kirkman's book? That is covered on p. 20-22. If you don't understand after reading that, can you be more specific about what is not clear to you?

i have only used pre made grips but here goes. first i very carefully ream the grip for a close fit on the rod. the last 4 inches should have some resistance when fitting the dry cork. i use three rattail files of different sizes as my reamers.cut off the tangs. chuck them in a drill and turn the drill backwords (counter clockwise). i usually measure my blank with a micrometer at where the two ends of the cork will be and then mike my file finding the limit of penitration into the bore so i don't overbore the cork. once i have it ready i scuff the area on the blank to break the gloss so epoxy will have a "water break free" surface to adhere to. i mark the blank where the tip of the cork will end up.
i mix up slow set epoxy (don't use 5 or ten minute, it will set too fast, take my word on this) i like 30 minute or slower. starting at the tip mark i make a ring of epoxy on the blank. not too thick. slide the handle down about an inch. turn it it distribute the epoxy. make another ring abou an inch down the blank. slide the blank down. eventually as you do this you will get epoxy building up at the interface. remove this so it does not slop onto your handle. keep this process going. have some denatured alcohol and some rags or coffee filters handy to wipe off slop. as you get close to the reel seat be extra careful. when you are about 1.5" from the reel seat make sure the blank is coated without epoxy running onto the reel seat. when the handle is seated agains the reel seat check for any "leakage" of epoxy onto the handle base and the threads of the seat. carefull clean any off with a alcohol soaked rag. neatness hear makes a difference in the "fit and finish" and how nice the assembly looks. you don't want epoxy to get on the cork. it will look like a shinny spot and be visible and look sloppy.

this is my method. it may not be the best or easiest, but it is what i do. if you are building from cork rings you have a whole different set of issues. the question of do you build the handle first on a mandrel or do you build in on the rod and turn the rod. i can't help you there. i always buy the pre made cork of good qhality and sometimes re-shape on a mandrel to suite my comfort and the esthetics i want.

Thx larry thats exactly what i needed as i am also curently useing pre-made cork grips

Patric I agree with a lot of what Larry says. I would use Rod Bond as a glueing agent. Rod Bond well give you lots of working time (like over2hrs befor curing starts). When doing individual corks ream and fit each cork and now find a point on the cork where all the cork ring top surfaces fit nearly smooth this well give you a starting point . Now number the cork and put some kind of center line on each cork to alagien up with. Also when installing each cork ring make sure you only cover each surface only 1/2 way. because once each cork inplace and you twist it a couple of times the bonding agent well spread out to the end. Once all the cork is inplace now put in to a cork clamp and squeez togather, just tighten till you see the extra glue is spread out the seams and you see no gaps Now clean up with alcahol.
I start out using a flat file to shape the cork to fit. To keep the bonding agent off the reelseat I use electrecal tape which I remove once everthing is in place.
also when installing each cork ring make sure you only cover each surface only 1/2 way. because once each cork inplace and you twist it a couple of times the bonding agent well spread out to the end. Once all the cork is inplace now put in to a cork clamp and squeez togather, just tighten till you see the extra glue is spread out the seams and you see no gaps Now clean up with alcahol. I start out shaping my cork using a flat rough cut file and finish off using a drywall board sand screen turning the rod at a hight speed. What type of handle are you wanting to build?
Good Wraps Bob PS I tried to email you but you have a hidden email address



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/28/2004 05:29PM by Bob Balcombe.

patrick, glad i could help.

yes please e-mail me the directions on how to make and install custom corks my e-mail is patrickdubay@msn.com i dont know how to make it so its not hidden lol

Patrick,

Go into your Control Panel - Edit E-mail and click on Confirm E-mail. This will make it unhidden.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/28/2004 05:25PM by Mike Barkley.

One suggestion I'd offer if you're using Rod Bond and you're mounting your grip over a round reel seat hood. When your grip approaches the hood, try to remove (using a narrow craft stick) as much of the Rod Bond as possible before sliding the grip over the hood. If too much RB is left above the hood, you'll be compressing the RB (and maybe some trapped air) inside the inletted cork. This compression could cause a "blowout" to occur, as the trapped air and RB try to squeeze past the reel seat hood. If very little is trapped, the RB can ooze out for quite awhile and you'll be wiping the oozing RB away until it begins to set up. If a lot of RB and air is trapped, the pressure can squirt the RB out and mess things up, and could also cause the walls of the inletted grip area to split. Bad news....


Good luck,
Jeff Shafer