Hi -

I've really enjoyed discovering this site, and have a question to put to the expertise of the group.

When putting epoxy finish over long sections (more than a guide foot, say a butt wrap or the like), I sometimes end up with slight unevenness across the length. It's not noticeable up close, when the rod is turning on the motor - indeed, I only really notice it after the rod is dry, in bright natural light. Under those conditions, in certain angles, the surface will appear slightly rippled, with the light catching the high points.

I apply my epoxy with long strokes across the length, but for some reason 1 out of 3 of my finishes ends up with this effect. I've also had a horrible time correcting it - if the first coat contains such ripples, every subsequent coat will reproduce those peaks and valleys. I've tried putting on a second thick coat, hoping it will flow around the blank and even out the finish, but that doesn't seem to work - it just builds up the epoxy, adding weight but not really evening things out. If it's relevant, this has happened to me mostly when working over water slide decals. I use Flex Coat High Build.

ANy suggestions for (1) eliminating this in the first place, or (2) repairing it once it's happened?

Thanks very much.

Peter

Start by putting on less finish. The finish will level unless you put on too much, in which case it sags and droops on the bottom and then spreads all around the circumference when you rotate it.

To cure it, you're pretty much left with block sanding and then recoating.

.......

Peter,
I have switched to the Flex Coat Lite. I like it much better in that it is easier to apply. Most of the rods that I build only require one coat. I will do the butt wrap with one mix then I will mix some more for the guide wraps. I epoxied a rod last night and it is very smooth.
Cheers, Ellis

Peter,

I am relatively new to this hobby as well and have been through this "phase" with finish. Here are the two things to do:

1. Put on much less finish

2. Swith to FlexCoat lite build


Even if you put two coats on if you make that first one very light it will be smooth and the scond coat serves to breing out more shine and gloss. Even on the second one - go easy on the finish

The lite build to me is every bit as effective. High build has it's place,but for most applications the lite is the way to go. Remember, and this was hard for me to get past, you do not want that "football" shape around your guides and wraps with the finish, you want a flat surface that highlites the thread wrap.

Good luck....you're gonna love this stuff

Jeff

I really don't think switching to a different epoxy is going to help. You're going to have to modify your application technique to get things right. I use Glass Coat and think it's the easiest epoxy finish to use of all of them, but it's almost like regular Flex Coat as far as how it handles. I would also say to put on less and when using those lengthwise strokes really draw the finish out thin.

Switching epoxies isn't going to solve your problem. They all have their quirks, etc. and behave differently. The problem isn't the finish (if it was, no one would use it), it's in the application. If you mention ANY brand, you will get half the people say it's easy and half say it's hard.
The key is to find one that has the qualities that you like (clarity, set time, etc) and then learn to use it. IMO the biggest mistake most make with any finish is to use way ti much.

Mike

Before you go and do something drastic like re-do all the work you have done, take a piece of scotch brite pad and smooth out the ripples and put another THIN coat of finish over it. Since scotch brite isn't as abrasive as sand paper, it may take a little elbow grease, but i have had some good results with it. And after all, it's a heck of alot easier than goin and sanding down and re-doin all your work.

Good luck,
Matt

Thanks to all for the good advice - I'm going to try putting in on thinner. And I was planning to try the FlexCoat Lite and other finishes anyway, to see the difference, so this is all great info.

One more thing - I'm not sure I follow the discussion about sanding it out. Can I actually sand (or scotch brite) it down until it's level, and then apply epoxy over that? Will the scratches made by sandpaper or scotch brite be absorbed, at least visually, when the new coat is put on? Or by sanding (as opposed to Scotch Briting) am a just taking it all the way down to the blank and starting anew, with a new decal and all?

I'll also check the archives for any information on sanding/scuffing/etc.

Thanks again...

Peter

Peter, Absolutely. You can sand the finish down with sandpaper or scotchbrite, your preference. It's a great way to fix a mistake like too much finish, waves in the finish, or even sadles or football-shaped finish on the guide wraps.
The only caution I will give you is to make sure you don't use a silicon-based sandpaper. That will cause fisheye's on the final finish coat.
PS, You don't need to sand the finish down to the blank. You just want to sand enough to knock off the high spots and blend them into the rest of the finish.

Patrick Vernacchio