I have waited a long time to ask this question because I thought it might be stupid. Even if it is, I am sure that all of you will be very kind with your responses. Here it goes: In all of the rod component catalogs, rod blanks are conveniently classisfied according to "possible" use. For example: fly blanks, spin blanks, steelhead blanks, casting blanks, etc. Why can't a rod builder use a "casting blank" to build a spinning rod? Why are they classified in that manner and why do I feel guilty if I use a blank classified in one category to build a rod from a blank that was classified differently in the catalog (especially if it turns out to be an excellent rod for my intended purpose)?

You can use any blank for any thing. The manufacturers are just putting some models into categories that they think they are suitable for in order to help people select blanks a little easier. But it's only a starting point and if you find a suitable blank for a casting rod that is listed as a spinning model, you can certainly use it for that without problems.

They list them that way to make it easier for someone to find a blank for a particular purpose. Any blank can be used for any type rod. If the specs on a blank fit what you are looking for, use it. The rod will never know what blank it is.

As for being a stupid question, you obviously haven't seen many of my post!!
Never be afraid to ask a question on this site. This site and the people on it are the most civil, helpful and knowledgeable people you will find anywhere!!!

Mike

Thanks for the reply! I figured that was the case, but just thought I would throw it out there to get educated opinion. Best wishes to all! Pete

Now that was not as bad as you thought it would be - was it

Also, the categories tend to be grouped by the rod's:

TAPER or "ACTION" (Fly- Slow; Popping- Moderate;
Casting/Spinning- Fast; Live-Bait- Extra-Fast .)

LENGTH (Stand-up; Trolling; Steelhead; Surf, etc.)

POWER Rating (Ultra-Lite - UL; Bottom Fishing - Heavy)

It matters little whether you use a spinning reel, or a revolving spool or even a fixed spool, like an Alvey, as said above. The blank is blind !

In fact, moderate adjustments in a rod blank's length, taper & lure weights can be made by trimming off some of the original blank's tip or butt section. Or by building the rod on an extension in the handle section. Manufacturers, especially for production rods, will cure a long blank, and then cut out a rod up or down the mother blank to generate 2 or 3 different rod actions & lure weights from the same flag & mandrel.

And lots of builders here have trimmed blanks and extended them to get the length and action a customer is looking for. So, understand what the pigeon-holes mean. But take that rod blank and craft it into your little scepter. IMO. -Cliff Hall, Gainesville, FL-

Great Question. A lot of it is simply marketing. In the St. Croix 2005 Retail Catalog, their new SCIV rods are sub-divided into Bass and Walleye rods. Translation: the "Bass" rods are mostly heavier in power, the "Walleye" rods lighter. In their 2005 Rodbuilders Catalog, the same blanks are divided into "Casting" and "Spinning". But as someone, think it was Tom Kirkman, said (and to paraphrase), a blank doesn't know what it's going to be until it's built. I have built spinning rods on "casting" blanks, and vice versa, and have been happy with the results, both ways. That's one of the reasons we are custom builders.

Fly blanks can be built into spinning and spinning into fly. As long as the specs are good for what you will use it for

I tend to disregard "manufacturers designations" such as "medium" or "heavy" as well as "spinning" "casting" or "fly". I try to look at something more standard: butt diameter, tip size, and length (to balance against) the recommended line wt and/or recommended lure wt. As above "the blank cares not" what the reel is or the handle assembly. It is a raw component - like the cork or EVA/hypalon or reel seat (graphite / stainless / titanium). What counts is what it is to be used for (and by whom).

Peter, I picked up dusty-package-sitting-in-the-corner-of-the-shop Pac Bay 909-3 "fly" rod, and built it into a medium weight baitcasting rod. It cast like doodoo, and it whipped and vibrated so much, I couldn't keep 10 feet of line on the reel without a wicked birdsnest.. But rather than relegate it to the corner of my garage, I changed out the guides, cut off and smoothly sanded down the trigger, and turned it into one of my favorite goto spinning rods for Coho. It casts like a rocket, and it has great backbone. I've only built a few rods that turned out differently if they had come from the factory. My friends have done the same. I think it all comes down to what you are trying to achieve, and being ready to rebuild it all over if the first design doesn't come out quite right.
Patrick Vernacchio

The only thing that bugs me is when they charge more for, say, a spinning blank that, say, a casting blank. That tends to irritate me a bit. Talking about the same manufacturer, same construction on the two series of blanks.

Putter

Best thing to do is to put your components on in some temporary fashion and test cast it to see if it works the way you intend it. Why glue every thing on just to find it does not work

Thanks again for all of the replys! I have a better handle on the whole blank description thing and how it should work into your plans as a rod builder. This message board is a great resource for anyone involved in the craft of rod building.

Putter, why is that? It must be that the manufacturers know that all you walleye spinning rod guys are loaded and us bass guys are poor.