I just finished my first rod, it turned out pretty darn good If I do say so myself. I used flex coat finish on my wraps. I was hoping to get some input on other peoples favorite finishes and what they like about them. Thanks in advance, Shane

I use Glass Coat and LS Supreme High Build but have to add that I've gotten equally good results with just about every finish on the market. I've used many, many gallons of Flex Coat and never had a problem with it. The new Aftcote worked well for me, as has AMTAK's finish. If I could still buy the old Bullard Diamond II, however, I might go back to it. That was good stuff.

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Good chapter for your next book, Tom. "Different finishes and my experiences with them."

I've used Flex Coat for a long time. I've recently been trying LS and can't seem to adapt to the differences. With FC, I get beautiful results and with LS, I look like 4 year old did the job.

It isn't the finish. It's the applicator. I've used FC so long that I try to apply every other finish the same way, but it doesn't work. I like FC because I've learned it's properties and am so ingrained into using it that I am incapable of using anything else besides permagloss.

I think they all have their pros and cons. I don't think that there is a such thing as a perfect finish. It's all about what you work with and learn how to use, and get used to using.

I can't get a finish that I'll put my name on with LS. I know people who feel the same about FC. FC yellows and "dingies" up the colors. LS fades faster. They all have ups and downs.

Glass Coat........Gets-R-Done !

Shane,

I've gotten interested in learning various butt wrap patterns and find that LS Supreme works well. I'm not very good at butt wraps yet, but am making progress.

Look forward to watching the Pro's in Charlotte teach technique/ideas.

Stan

LS itself doesn't fade - it stays clear longer than any other finish. Of course, that means the thread underneath it will fade, however. That's the downside to the extremely clear finishes. PermaGloss is even worse in that regard, but it's the clearest, brightest finish on the planet. And it stays that way.

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Shane,
I like the Dale Clemens custom poly build,I have used many others allways end up back with clemens' poly build.
capt. ray

Shane,
I think that both Tom and Mick are giving you good advice. You can probably get good results with most of the available finishes with practice but If you have had good results with Flex Coat I would not change.
I have tryed most of the epoxies on the market but keep going back to Flex Coat. In fact, I buy it by it by the gallon but it is probably only because I have used it for a long time and have learned to get good results with it. I think that all of the finish epoxies have advantages and disadvantages but if you are getting good results with one do not change, you are just asking for trouble.

Flex Coat High Build is my go to rod finish, I guess the main reason being because I have used it so long and have the routine down pat. Having said that I also like Glass Coat and L S High Build about as well however they are just a little different from the Flex Coat High Build.

I also am like Tom, if the old Gene Bullard Diamond Coat II was still available, it would be my finish of choice bar none.

Later,
Gerald Mc

Ditto all the above. I use different epoxies (and non-epoxies) for different finishes / applications / rods / rod usage. At issue is what you are most used to and familiar with vs what you are building / trying to achieve. I use varnish of shellac or polyurethane (wipe on poly) on bamboo rods; permagloss or low buld / lite epoxies (LS Supreme, AmTak lite) on graphite and fiberglass fly rods and ultralight spinning rods (or apply a thin finish of high build with a spatula); two coats of lite to inshore rods; one coat of lite and one of high build to off shore and bay trolling rods and have used two coats of high build (first one applied with a spatula / second with a brush) to standup tuna rods - and two coats of high build with a brush to charter / party boat rods. I think the correct question is really along the lines of one-part vs two part and "working time" for different finishes (which can also vary depending upon how the mixture is contained (or not) after it is combined. For instance Glass Coat "sets" pretty quickly on a flat surface - faster if contained in a holding cup (heat generation accellerates curing). GENERALLY speaking the lite finishes set more slowly. If you are using a mechanical device to turn the rod it makes no difference as they will not set up for several hours while a "high build" finish like Glass Coat will set up faster and lend itself more readily to someone who hand rotates a rod 90 to 180 degrees every 15-20 minutes. This entire topic couldl be the subject of a treatise on a comparative "test" of finishes - with elapsed time "working time" vs "set time" from an enclose vessel (mixing cup) vs spread out in at varying temperatures/humidities (for clarity of finish) -- there are lots and lots of variables! Personally I've had successes and failures (all likely my fault) with all finishes that are available -- mostly by not following the directions.

I tend to use Amtack lite or low build for all my fly rods and lite spinning rods. It definitely allows for a longer working time then many others but it also takes longer to set up. Glass coat for the rest.

I don't have a favorite. I hate them all for one reason or another.

I get my best results with flexcoat. I get my worst results with the stuff that is supposed to be "easier" to use.