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layers of epoxy
Posted by:
Ken Blevins
(---.pittpa.adelphia.net)
Date: December 06, 2004 08:42AM
Do most builders use several thin layers of epoxy on the wrapping or just apply one coat and leave it at that. I can't see any real advantage to several thin layers other than they are most likely smoother.I would perfer to do it the correct way [strongest ] but I also like to see results quickly [A personailty flaw]. As a side note . The rubber band trick used for holding the guides in place on the blank worked really well. thanks everyone Ken Blevins Re: layers of epoxy
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(---.152.54.35.Dial1.Atlanta1.Level3.net)
Date: December 06, 2004 09:33AM
There really is no "correct" way. I use one application and leave it at that. Others use two or more and get similar results. In most cases, the thinner viscosity epoxies cannot be applied as heavily with sagging so you're forced to use multiple applications with those, if you want greater finish depth. With say, Flex Coat Lite or LS Supreme Regular, you'll be hard pressed to complete any but the very lightest rod wraps with just one application. With regular Flex Coat or Supreme high build, however, it's not very hard to get a deep finish in just one application. Also keep in mind, that if you multiple applications with say, 12 to 48 hours of each other, you'll end up with what amounts to just one "coat" as the layers meld with each other. If you wait more than a couple days between applications, you really do have multiple coats on the wraps. This is why it's necessary to scuff the surface of epoxy that has set more than a couple days before applying more. ............. Re: layers of epoxy
Posted by:
Cliff Hall
(---.dialup.ufl.edu)
Date: December 06, 2004 09:40AM
On lighter rods where weight is more of an issue, thinner layers of thread coat add less weight to the final rod. That helps preserve the quick recovery or "damping" of the rod blank, because of kinetic inertia and the fact that the vibration of a higher mass has a lower resonance frequency when you "tap" the rod. We tend to think of a higher frequency vibration has feeling more "sensitive". (If we were snakes or earthworms on the ground, we'd probably think a lower frequency conveyed more sensory information.) On heavier rods, how thick the thread finish is, is much less of an issue than the weight of the rod itself and the guides chosen. So, overall, the choice between one thick coat, or multiple thinner coats depends or your preferences for looks and ease-of-application. IMO. -Cliff Hall- Re: layers of epoxy
Posted by:
Emory Harry
(---.client.comcast.net)
Date: December 06, 2004 09:57AM
Cliff, If I understand you that means that I can put more coats of epoxy on my snakes and earth worms. Is that correct? Re: layers of epoxy
Posted by:
Cliff Hall
(---.dialup.ufl.edu)
Date: December 06, 2004 10:50AM
That's right, Emory - the stiffer the better ! -Mr.Stuffy- Re: layers of epoxy
Posted by:
Andrew White
(66.204.20.---)
Date: December 06, 2004 12:49PM
What kind of rod is it? The reason I ask is this. If that rod is going to be on the deck of a bass boat, it's good to have a thicker coat of epoxy on it, just for protection from bouncing lures, other rods, etc. I still wouldn't go with the "football" type epoxy finishes found on factory rods, but I put one extra thin coat on my rods that will go to tournament bass fishermen. On my fly rods, however, I simply cover the threads only deep enough that I can't distinguish individual threads in the wrap. That's pretty thin, but since the rod will be in a case during most of it's traveling time, and taken good care of when being fished, it's plenty of epoxy. Re: layers of epoxy
Posted by:
Emory Harry
(---.client.comcast.net)
Date: December 07, 2004 12:12AM
Cliff, "Mr. Stiffy" now you are bragging and not tlaking about using epoxy on earth worms. Re: layers of epoxy
Posted by:
Chia-Chien Goh
(---.jvl.wi.charter.com)
Date: December 07, 2004 01:09PM
I was taught by my rod crafting teacher in Malaysia that his teacher, the late master rod crafter Robert Tan, taught all of his students to use several coats with each successive coat becoming thicker. The difference between their extra fine finishes using the Flex-Coat High Build is their application process using extra fine Chinese calligraphy brushes and taking their time to make sure that the first coat was so thin that one wouldn't be able to see it after drying. The second coat would then be applied and after that dried, the outside observer would just be able to observe that the threads looked a tad oily but not coated. After the third coating, then one could tell they were coated. Our group has done several tests wrapping and finishing guides and then pulling on them with spring scales to see which finishes were stronger. The multi-level finish was much stronger. Of course there are many factors to consider in making such a strong finish. First of all, your drying environment needs to be very warm and very dry. Secondly you really need to take your time and realize that applying the finishing coats may take so long to do well, that you may have to mix up several extra batches of epoxy during the application. If you're in a rush, this fine and painstaking approach is not for you. I use this approach only on my heavier poundage rods and not on my light action rods. Just for comparison, to make the same thickness of epoxy that Shimano has on their rods, it would take an average of four to five layers by myself or my rod crafting teacher. Possibly even six. To make the football shaped finish, it would take at least six to eight coats with each succeeding coat becoming much thicker than the preceding. Again, for light action rods or for those in a rush, this is not for you! Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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