Well I got the guides and wrap off with a little heat and cutting on top of the guide and peeling off the rest of the wrap.

I had some lettering i put on two to three inches above the reel seat and hook keeper which I decided to remove as well. I thought if I used a different finish there might be problems. This has proven to be difficult and probably best left alone. How perfect hindsight is. But now that I have started it do you guys have any suggestions on how to remove this single layer (crystal coat is the finish) of finish??

I have searched the boards but not found anything directly related.

By the way when scotchbrite is mentioned does the scotchbrite refer to scrubby pads for kitchen use or are there other varieties of scotchbrite?

thanks

John Kepka

Paint shops (Praxair here) and parts stores (NAPA) have the Scotchbrite pads. I use the green kitchen ones (WalMart) for roughing a finished blank to glue handles, but follow up with the gray that I buy at the above mentioned.
The gray is for making a water break-free surface; the red or green can be used for more of a sanding situation where more material (finish) needs to be removed completely. Old finish (3 days or more) should always be scuffed with the gray pads before applying more finish.

Putter

John, The library has a topic By Ralph O'Quinn called Refinishing
Rod Blanks that might prove helpful. steve

Ralph O'Quinn Mentions Crystal Coat in his article and suggest it as a possible rod finish because it flows and bonds better than the resins used for guide wrap finish. The problem that I have is that the Crystal Coat has adhered quite well in the rod blank and will not come off as easy a peeling off guides which have thread.

John Kepka

If you have a lathe, you can wetsand the finish off in that area.
You have to go slow to be sure you don't cut the finish of the blank itself. You can kiss it, but you don't want to cut through it or it won't look nice. Good luck

I use the Stripeeze gel paint remover. Just brush a bit on the subject area, let "soak-in" for about 30 minutes, then take a green scotchbrite pad and rub the residual finish off. I took off the worn down teal green completely off an SCIV, down to the bare graphite, wiped on a couple of coats of Permagloss and now have a great looking grey gloss blank that is bulletproof.