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U-40 Rod Bond vs. Epoxy for Cork Grips
Posted by: Charles Tatton (204.193.71.---)
Date: November 17, 2004 03:51PM

This is closely related to another thread but I didn’t want to threadjack so I'm creating a new one. I have read several times that Rod Bond works well for gluing up cork grips, but the key is to scrape off all the excess glue before putting the pieces together. I have a few of questions about this proceedure: How much glue should you scrape off? Should you really scrape off as much as possible and just leave a thin film? Do you get a good bond this way? Also, can you use the same method with standard slow-set epoxy (i.e., scrape all the excess off to minimize glue lines)? It almost seems like the standard epoxy would work better because it would soak into the cork better and form a better bond, but I don’t have much experience and could be way off base.

Am I am interested in the opinions of the gurus here. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks.

ct

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Re: U-40 Rod Bond vs. Epoxy for Cork Grips
Posted by: Andrew White (66.204.20.---)
Date: November 17, 2004 04:22PM

Here's what I do, and I've not had any trouble so far. I've been using Rod Bond for quite awhile now, basically since it came out.

I simply coat one side of each cork ring, then agressively scrape it off with a popsicle stick. Then, I put them on the mandrel, and clamp. I used to coat both sides of the rings, but tried just one side, and it seems to work fine.

I know that it seems counter-intuitive, but go ahead and scrape as much off as you can. No matter what you "see" on the ring, there's apparently still enough actually "in" the cork to bind it very strongly.

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Re: U-40 Rod Bond vs. Epoxy for Cork Grips
Posted by: Cliff Hall (---.dialup.ufl.edu)
Date: November 17, 2004 04:27PM

Also try SEARCH = "CORK BOND", "CORK GLUE", "CORK EPOXY".
Leave the SUBJECT and AUTHOR box UNCHECKED.
Select ALL WORDS, and GO. You will get dozens of references just within the last 180 days.

Your understanding is not off base. A thin layer means enough to make the flat faces adhere, but not so much that it is oozing out of the joint. The cork will not appreciably absorb the adhesive, so if there is just enough to see it, that's enough for in-between the rings. I think most people wait ~ 24 hours for a full cure before shaping, if needed.

When you bond the core of the cork handle to the blank is when you want to use more adhesive. And there is the idea that a thin uniform film of your adhesive is better than using a thick layer of adhesive to try and fill too large a gap between the rod blank's OD and the cork's ID. This is more likely when mounting a barrel-bodied reel seat, and that is why arbors are used to shim the fit on the rod blank and bring the surfaces closer together for a stronger union. ... So, that's my view. -Cliff Hall.


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Re: U-40 Rod Bond vs. Epoxy for Cork Grips
Posted by: Ralph Jones (---.att.net)
Date: November 17, 2004 05:47PM

I can add very little to Andrew's and Cliff's advice. I use a thin 2 hr. 2 part epoxy for cork rings and compress a 7 in. assembly of rings approx. 1/8 in. on the mandrel (allthread) and thoroughly clean the cork with alcohol before setting it aside to cure. I do use Rod Bond to attach grips, reelseats, etc. to the blank. I consider both products to be the best for these specific uses. Ralph

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Re: U-40 Rod Bond vs. Epoxy for Cork Grips
Posted by: Charles Tatton (204.193.71.---)
Date: November 17, 2004 06:55PM

Thanks very much for the responses! Sounds good to me.

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Re: U-40 Rod Bond vs. Epoxy for Cork Grips
Posted by: Bob Balcombe (---.rb.gh.centurytel.net)
Date: November 17, 2004 08:40PM

All good points on Rod Bond! May I add this little I spread a thin layer of bond to one cork also I leave a gap of about a 16th of a inch from the edge. AS I assemble eacpeace I twist them togather this well spread the reast of the bond to near the eage and when you clamp it it well spread to the edge this way you well have vary little clean up, using a solution of water, denatured alcohol and water. Hint when glueing on to a manderal coat the manderal coat it with wax for easy removal
Good Wax bob

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Re: U-40 Rod Bond vs. Epoxy for Cork Grips
Posted by: Danny Bundy (---.69-93-60.reverse.theplanet.com)
Date: November 17, 2004 10:38PM

Just in case you might not have considered it, TiteBond III is totally waterproof once dry. No muss, no fuss. Nothing to mix and no glue lines. VERY strong. Join rings with TiteBond and mount to rod with epoxy. Best of both worlds.

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Re: U-40 Rod Bond vs. Epoxy for Cork Grips
Posted by: Pavel Novolokin (---.Moscow.dial.rol.ru)
Date: November 18, 2004 12:11AM

Just my 0.02...

For glueing cork rings Gudebrod Rod Cement is also fine. 1-component, thin, gets transparent when dried...

Pavel

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Re: U-40 Rod Bond vs. Epoxy for Cork Grips
Posted by: Chris Catignani (---.vitalchek.com)
Date: November 18, 2004 11:09AM

There are lots of glues that work...or so they seem to work.

The real test is how it holds up in high and low tempratures.
Some epoxys can easily fail at freezing temp.

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Re: U-40 Rod Bond vs. Epoxy for Cork Grips
Posted by: Charles Tatton (---.slkc.qwest.net)
Date: November 20, 2004 11:15AM

Thanks for the additional replies. I may have to do some experimenting with the various glues mentioned.

ct

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