I have to cover a large area on a blank , that covers a sticker and i would like some advise on how to keep the epoxy flat without brush marks. I was told that if i brush along the rod instead of round the rod this would help.

Epoxy will level out on its own but it certainly doesn't hurt to apply it as level or as even as possible to begin with. Horizontal brush strokes help and I have found that applying with a broad even applicator such as a credit or playing card helps me obtain an even application. It is extremely important on the broad areas that your rod is level during the drying process and that you don't have an excessive amount of epoxy applied. The thinner low build epoxies are less forgiving than the heavier high build when youi are trying to apply just the right amount in my experience.

"I was told that if i brush along the rod instead of round the rod this would help."

This will work. Put the flexcoat epoxy on thin and finish off w/ brush strokes parrell to the rod.

I've just started playing w/ using an artists spatula. It works, but more practice is needed. (similar to playing card trick of Stan's)

Good advise in the above posts. I have had success with the procedure you have mentioned, that is, apply epoxy over the area to be covered and then brush slowly horizonal to the rod surface. I found that you can add too much epoxy so after applying epoxy to the entire area, I wipe most of the epoxy out of my brush before I begin brushing horizonally and as epoxy builds in the brush, wipe off excess as needed. I use LS Supreme which is thin. I apply 2 coats to my rods. As stated, epoxy will even out while turning. I flame some of my rods with an alcohol lamp to remove bubbles. The flame does not appear to change the even flow.

Hope this helps.

Bob Widmaier

here's one other suggestion for leveling... use your alcohol torch to thin the epoxy.. i use flexcoat lite.. as rod is turning, the epoxy will sag to the bottom of the rod.. remove with horizontal brush stroke, evening the epoxy as you do.. .wipe off excess from brush, repeat as needed. This works well for me.

Credit card, playing card, heat and remove excess-all point to one thing: don't use too much!

Putter

Your post said "large area/around the sticker". If you are using LS Supreme and it is your first coat the edge of the sticker can cause some funny irregularities in the finish, i.e, small voids and dimples right at the edge. These things can be quite troublesome. If you will wait about five minutes or so after mixing to apple the finish it will minimize the "pulling" of the thin film of finish that is on the edge of the sticker. Flexcoat instructions note that funny things can happen to large areas of finish if they are applied before the polymerization process gets started. The best way to deal with this area is to do the sticker area with it up and the rod not turning. Apply a nice coat and let it seek its own level and the dimpling may not appear. If after a few seconds it tends to pull make a long slow stroke with the brush over the entire length of the edge. Don't fret too much if the dimples are there - a second coat will normally make them disappear.

Raning Hear Wether Bad Bad!

Not Gon Fishn

Mix your epoxy thoroughly, and then apply immediately, as thin as you can with good coverage. Turn and let harden for 5-6 hours, and then apply a second coat, and you should have great results.

Trying to apply to much ends up taking more time to correct than putting on two thinner coats. Being impatient, I have learned this the hard way.

Happy wrapping

But let me be honest here.

More often than not, what I do is mix up a batch of hi-build epoxy, and let it sit until it is like very thick honey, too thick to use with a brush. (@15 mins, depending on temperature and epoxy mix)

Then I take a flat plastic applicator, (about the size of a credit card, but with a bit more flex) and turning the rod with my free hand , I scoop and spread a smooth, level coat of epoxy in one smooth action.

Done in only a few turns, you can make it just the right thickness and with no bubbles. If you make bubbles, simply pull off the bad epoxy with the applicator and apply some fresh epoxy.

Sounds tricky, but when you try it, it's really easy and makes for excellent coverage and finished product. I big part of the trick is to make a straight, flexible plastic applicator about the size of the wraps. I cut mine from the clear bubble wrap that so many things are packaged in nowadays.

Using the partially set epoxy helps keep the edges of decals from lifting, and almost eliminates runs or droops. Not to mention the fact that it makes for faster turning times. I also put a lamp a few inches from the butt wrap while it turns to help speed the cure rate.

For me, this is the only way to fly!

Hope this helps.

TH