I have some thick wormy chestnut planks an uncle gave me. I'm thinking of using some of it for reel seats, grips, etc.

Does anyone have experience using wormy chestnut for rodbuilding?

Would it be best to get it "wood stabilized" before using it? The wood is old, dry as a bone but very sound.

Thanks,

Stan

I think any wood that is going to be used on a fishing rod is better if it is stablized/impregnated. I know some beautiful finishes can be applied but I think if you want it to look great a dozen years down the road then the stabilized route is the way to go. Plus, if you scuff or scratch it, you can just buff it right back up to a mirror shine.

And if it gets windy you can use it as an extra boat anchor. Sorry I'm not a big fan of stabilizing. Yes it may last longer but it is alot heavier. every scratch is a mark of an adventure you have taken with that particular piece of equipment and you will be reminded of that time every time you see a certain dent and scratch. It may just be me but I'd rather have my wood light and beutiful and full of memories

Stabilizing wood for reel seats has some obvious merit but I tend to agree with Travis. If you go the stabilization route you may change color dramatically as well as the wood character. You may want to test a sample or two to help in your decision.
I frequently use juniper in my rod building and have found that stabilizing it creates an entirely different looking product that doesn't resemble the native material. Some other woods don't display such a dramatic change however.

If you have a fair bit of the stuff, just try to turn a hunk into a reel seat. If you blow it up as soon as a tool touches it, then send it in to be stabilized. But, if you can manage to get a reel seat out of it without stabilization, even better.

When I'm dealing with relatively soft woods, I try to knock the edges off, then very slowly turn down to within .1 or .2 of my desired diameter. At that point, I just use sandpaper--usually 150 or 220 grit. It takes awhile, but it keeps me from tearing the wood (which would be a problem with the worm holes). Once I get the wood the right o.d., I do a tru-oil slurry to fill any open grain, then put another 5-8 coats of Tru-Oil on it. Unless you really bash it hard with something pointed, theTru-Oil is a hard enough finish to keep you from having any major dents in it.

You might also try the "superglue stabilization" technique. That's what us poorer folks do instead of buying stabilized wood. All you do is knock the corners off (even better if you can do it at a belt sander), then stop and coat the wood with superglue. Once the glue has dried, turn down another tenth or two--you're just going through the superglue. Then, coat with another coat of superglue, let dry, turn again, etc., etc., until you get the o.d. you want. It uses a lot of superglue, but is still likely cheaper than stabilizing.