Starting my first ...
The arbors I recieved are a tad larger than the inside diamiter of the reel seat, is this normal? So do I sand to fit, epoxy inside the seat and then ream to fit blank? or should I epoxy them to blank first?
Thanks in advance....

I've only use them three times so far. I reamed them to fit the blank and then epoxied them in place. After that I filed them down to fit the reel seat. I think it's much easier to ream each one individually so you're sure you get a good snug fit.

Have fun.

Greg... This one is easy, but requires a trip to the hardware store and two dollars. Take a 1/4" x 4.5" stove bolt (not a carriage bolt) and thread a black rubber faucet washer onto it, threading it all the way down to the head. The washer is simply to build a "stop" at the bolt head. If the arbors are GA12, then they will fit nicely on the 1/4" screw. If they are a bigger size, then you will have to build up the screw with several turns of masking tape to get a snug fit. Slide the arbor onto the screw, and follow it with a wing nut. Tighten the wing nut down on the arbor with just enough tension to keep the arbor from spinning on the bolt. Slip the screw into your electric drill chuck. Clamp your drill onto a piece of scrap 2X4 with a large hose clamp. (You now have an expedient lathe.) Use narrow strips (1/2") of sandpaper to gently reduce the outside diameter of the arbors. A light touch on this, as you can easily overdo it. You will want to stop and remove the arbor several times to fit it to your reel seat insert. Works for me. If you have a drill press you can do this vertically. Very Best Regards, Vance Corbett

They should match the inside of the seat. What brand arbors did you get?? I find both the Fuji and Pac Bay arbors are about 1/2mm undersize for the corresponding seats. Sounds to me like someone sent you the next size up arbors. You can sand them down or just go back and get the correct size.

Mike, I ordered the graphite handle kit from cabelas before I found this forum and its most excellent sponsors, and they must have put the wrong size bushings with it. The info with it said to epoxy them in the seat first, but I wanted to ask the pros...
Also without starting another thread, I ordered PC-11 epoxy (hope this is not a bad choice). When working with such, what is best for removing excess from blank, cork etc?... Alcohol? I can just picture myself getting it on everything. Thanks again. G.

The arbors I use are often just slightly larger than the inside diameter of the reel seat. No problem, in fact, better than smaller diameter. Ream and epoxy (Rod Bond) the arbors to the blank. The next day, when they are well set, sand the arbors lightly so that the reel seat just goes over them. For the sanding, I epoxy sandpaper to thin slats of wood and use those. I test as I go along, rotating the reel seat over the arbors until it just goes over. Just a few minutes or less does it. Then Rod Bond finishes the job. No failures yet.

PC11 is very thick and you might find it hard to work with. I'd just go down to the local hardware and buy some Ace or Devcon 2-ton epoxy. Get the slower cure type that gives you about 20 minutes of working time, not the 5 minute type.

Put the arbors on a piece of scrap blank, then put it into your drill. Let them turn and sand with 80-100 dry sandpaper till they fit. You can even sand them and turn by hand -- they sand ' quickly " Check often. Then ream them to fit the blank where you want them. Epoxy in place

Cover the threaded end of your seat with masking tape before sliding the epoxy covered arbor in, (Its hard to get the glue out of the threads)
and just peel it off when finished also screw the reel nut all the way foward

To Greg Tucker - For a solvent for clean-up (C/U) after using PC-11 paste epoxy: While I have not yet used the PC-11, I have used the PC-7 paste epoxy adhesive. 70% IsoPropyl Alcohol - "70%-IPA" - (clear "rubbing alcohol", no colorant or fragrant oils added) works very well for clean-up on components & tools. Also, a few drops (10-20) of IPA-70 can be added during the mixing stage to reduce the viscosity of this paste somewhat or refresh a slightly dried-out batch of part A or B. Mixing should be done with a spatula on a non- absorbing surface, like a clean glass plate or heavy duty aluminum foil. I suspect you'll find that 70%-IPA works for PC-11, too. - Cliff Hall