My son want me to build him a bass flipping rod with a Split-Grip. I have read in Advantages of the Split-Grip in the RodMaker but still have a few questions.
1) How far between the back two grips?
2) He want to use a 7"6' or a 8" tele rod will I have the room on the handle to do a split grip?
3) While looking thur books I found a blank Amtak IM6 that has what he is looking for but have not heard of them how good are these blanks? Is there a another blank that can be used.
4) Does anyone sell a split-grip handle kit?

Any information on this would be very helpfull.
Thank
Al Bassett

I think the distance between the grips really depends on your overall handle length. I like to have my rear handle long enough so that the butt end resides under my forearm, back towards the elbow so that I can fight a fish with my arm and not my wrist. Just set your handle length to suit you.

As far as how long to make each portion of the split grip, grasp one of your current single piece gripped rods and notice that you only really use a portion of it, the area just behind the seat and the area at the butt. This means that all the material in the middle is not necessary. Thus, make and install only that portion of the grip that you actually use - that parts that actually reside in your hands.

I am not aware of any specific "split-grip" handle assemblies. But you could check with some of the sponsors here. Also, you may be able to fashion one from fly rod fighting butt grips if you would prefer not to build and shape your own. Think about a short foregrip type for the portion used just behind the seat and a fly rod fighting butt style for the rear portion at the butt end.

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I just installed one last night on a 6'6" St. Croix Avid 3C66MHM crankbait rod. I made mine from 9 cork rings and one burl ring on the end. Overall length on mine to the rear of the reel seat is 10", and each grip portion is 2.5" long. It looks something like this - the vertical lines represent 1/2" thick cork rings, the dashes represent the area of blank left open, and the x's represent the reel seat -- handle is to the left.

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As Tom said, this allows you to use your forearm to fight a fish. I'm using no foregrip and a sprial wrap.

Another option would be to buy a couple of 2.5 or 3.5" preshaped foregrips and shape them as you wish.

As for the blank -- does he have his heart set on a telescoping rod? The only reason I ask is that they are heavier than 1-piece blanks. Here are some suggestions:

Telescoping -- St. Croix 3C73MHF (7' 3" MH) or 3C710HF (7' 10" Heavy) or Rainshadow IFT905 (7 1/2' MH); 1-piece -- Rainshadow ISF766 (7 1/2" Heavy) Check with Karen at Bingham Enterprises (link at left). She usually has these blanks in stock

Good Luck -- Jim

Jim,
What do you do about a clean look in front of the reelseat? I had thought about maybe using one cork ring and sanding down an eight inch shoulder that would go inside the the reelseat and then turning downing the front of the ring to the rod or maybe to the size winding check that will be used. I just need some ideas here so that I can acheive and good clean look. It already looks odd enough with no foregrip so it needs to be as clean as possible. Thanks for any suggestions in advanced.

Thanks,
Steve

I have been doing this for years. Just use a cork ring or short piece of 1" EVA and turn to a bullet shape. Finishes off the front of the seat very sharply. Looks good too.

Al,
I have realized threw building rods that the majority of the lengths are between 9 and 10 inches. However, it rests on whats comfortable to your son. I prefer the butt grip to rest against my forearm about two inches above my elbow.
Also, on the telescopic rods I have built, you have about 2 foot (maybe more) of blank to work with.