If you would like to try an 8' blank that cast like a dream, I have built and use the Batson CB80MH and like it.
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prep reel surfaces, airbrush on HOK base color let it dry at least a couple hours, spray on the House of Kolor (HOK) Marbelizer fairly wet and then you take plastic wrap and press it down on the reel surfaces you just sprayed and lift off the plastic wrap, let that dry, if you want to apply a coloring over the marbelizer color you picked then just air brush it on where ever you want it. Kandy re
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I have used the HOK products for marbeling reels and it works great. I have some example photos in the links below. I would have posted them here but.... photo page issues... So I hope the links are OK to post. This reel is black base, with silver marbeling and a translucent blue added to part of the reel to give contrast and to show how you can create alternate colors of marbeling by usi
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a lot of the young guys in my circles like EVA. Black EVA allows use of most any color thread with it, and the same holds for color trim rings. When using cork with burls etc, there are some color combinations that I don't think work very well but you can use them with EVA. I think cork and use of burnt or burl rings or spliced rings can create a fancy traditional look, but that doesn't ex
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I met James Carnes who is 'Osprey Custom Fishing Rods' at the Red Cross in Charlotte. And last month I was talking to him about building a party boat rod and a pier rod for use on the NC coast. There were a few of these Gator Rods he was recommending, but I can't remember what they were. To my knowledge James only builds salt water rods and does a lot of the big tuna rods and other stand up ro
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nice photos, I like the Black & HT Blue the most, and it looks killer with Batson's Blue Zirc guides. Along with Black with HT Blue I also have done Black with HT Pewter, HT Pewter with HT Blue which also looks killer with Batson's Blue Zirc guides on the RX8 Ti Chrome blank.
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Well I certainly can't add much to what Tom said, other than the fun aspect of #4. I just rebuilt an old Fenwick casting rod for a friend and it is quite amazing to see the finished product. After cleaning up and sanding the old grips, resealing the cork, buffing the reel seat hoods, replaced old guides with better lighter guides with just a bit of a metalic accent in the wrap, and refinished t
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Steve Gardner Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Bill; > That is an awesome amount of new stuff to digest. > I’m excited to see the new RX8 blank offerings > > > On top of the other techniques suggested for the > XSB802.75 blank. > It should be perfect for skipping Sinko type baits > around and up under stuff. > Looks lik
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I would shoot for 48 hours at least. I try to save the foil I have poured the epoxy on to, or cup I mixed it in so I can do finger tests. I try not to move it or handle it at all until the epoxy on the foil feels real hard and leaves no finger print. If you have multiple ones going that might be dificult. But I try.
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I would second the use of BATSON RX7 ISB802.75. I like the length of the rod and it has enough power to pull the fish out of a bit of grass. I fish Senkos as much or more than anyone I know, and my Senko Rod is 6'8" and I love it. Built with Batson blue zirc guides, woven carbon fiber grips (from John Timberlake), Aero handle and it is comfortable and light, and there are certain lakes an
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You don't want to brush PermaGloss, particularly > at this time of the year. > > To wipe it on, you must have a cloth or foam brush > that is very wet with PG. If you take some PG and > put it in a plastic cup or small glass (if you use > a cup make sure it won't be eaten by the PG - some
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OK, there must really be a secret to use of Perma Gloss. I have tried multiple times to use this and find it virtually impossible to get a flawless finish. I've tried multiple types of brushes and tried wiping it on also. With brushing you just don't seem to get that nice level finish over the entire length of the rod, and with wiping it seems impossible to apply enough to get the shiny finish
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everyone is mentions how inexpensive the syringes are, well buy a set of the DII inserts and you won't have to worry about drilling and spilling. I assume Mudholes work the same way but I have only used the Bullard versions.
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I have done both ways, just seems to help getting the pigment mixed and suspended into the epoxy. When I tried using them dry I found I had to make sure I really stirred it in and had no clumps. Of course if you mixed the pigment into the resin part of the epoxy and then mixed the hardener it would probaly be just fine. But I seem to be brain dead and never rember to do that. But if I use a t
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Luis, I have used several different colors of the Testor paints where the pigments never seem to totally separate. So I did just what Tom suggested, I still poured off a portion of the liquid at the top and then stirred the remaining pigments up very well and used a few drops to mix into the epoxy and it all worked just fine. The epoxy does take slightly longer to fully cure when using the Test
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YES that is who it was! Thanks Mike! It is because of your rods that I started to build rods. And I think you help out the NC State boys don't you. I was with a couple different teams for the College stuff down here in Charlotte. They were drop shotting in 50+ feet with your rods and kicking .... I absolutely loved what you did for Chris' finesse rods etc. and that C rig rod. The first I
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I have been looking at various store versions of Carolina rig rods and rods that could be used for C rig and really haven't found one that floats my boat. I would love some help from folks on which blank they like and why. I will say that most of what I have looked at and or used just doesn't seem to have the tip to get the distance out of a cast. I need something to make my Revos scream. I c
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If you ever paint under your wraps, be careful using the Casons. Apply lightly quickly and let it dry completely in between a second coat if you use one.
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hmm, wow it really depends on who is fishing it and the size of their hands. How many hours a day will they be holding it. If your after pure weight savigs use the skeleton approach and no inserts. Weight and comfort, skeleton and cork insert OR the Batson BPSTG series and trim the threads down to fit the reel being used. Of course that holds true for all approaches if you want to save weight
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I can't imagine any required changes to a standard build other than changing the grips. Perhaps Hypalon would hold up to the oil, or buy/build some graphite woven grips. And then use an overwrap of tape of some sort that could be removed. There are a lot of grip materials that are not specific to fishing that come to mind. I used to ride and race bikes, so bicycle handle bars use a variety of
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I have come to like D2. To me it is clearer and flows out better with less concerns with bubbles. But that is just me and I just like the fact it starts out clearer IMHO.
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I use one of the St Croix 6' UL for sun fish / crappie and would highly recomend the rod. Enevitably you catch a bass now and then, and the rod holds up well even for the occasional larger fish.
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thanks for that info, I wish I had thought about that , but wow I would still worry about cutting into the blank. eeks, not for the faint of heart.
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Thanks for the info. I enjoy marbling techniques. I recently tried the Bullard pigments and really liked what I tried and am in the middle of a new rod using them as well.
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Was there somewhere on the Site that specifically stated what they were fishing? Looke through a bunck of pages and photos, but never really saw that information.
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Without using heat how will you get the old reel seat off?
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I built the CB80MH Rainshadow and love it. I used a spiral wrap and think the rod casts very well. Using everything from a small Bandit up to Series 6 SK, DD22, big LC 20 s, big Little Johns, etc. I would highly recomend the rod if you want an 8' crankbait rod. Put a Revo Winch on it and you'll be really pleased!
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might just try soaking it in water for an extended period, or use a penetrating oil. Also try a little heat on the joint with a heat gun or blow dryer.
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Well to answer Steves question, it is mostly due to searching as many sites as possible looking at 7'6" blanks, comparing butt size, tip size, weight of the blank, seeing how fast it flexes on the blank under load. But I the rods seem to have more backbone than I would have expected for a popping rod. I am a Bass Rod guy and have no experience with popping rods so I am anything but sure th
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I picked up a few 7’6” bargain rods a ICRBE thinking I might be able to use them for light saltwater or perhaps Carolina Rig rods. But… I am not sure they would hold up to being used as a Carolina Rig rod. The rods are 7’6”, weigh 2.62 oz, 4.5 tip, and 14mm / .0543” butt and are X fast. Best guess (since the labels are scratched off) is they were originally intended as inshore pop
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