Ditto on that too Jim. I need a new UL rod. That is if I can find a true UL spinning reel (150 yards of 4# mono) that will last in the salt.
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Roger, you might do better using angle iron. Most of the L brackets at the home stores are lacking in strength. You can keep the angle iron as long as you want or cut into little brackets. If you'd rather buy a L-bracket but want something more strudy....try the ones made for uni-strut....try an electrical supply house.
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David, will this rod be for you or a customer? I ask because neither blackfin or wahoo require an 80# IFGA rod.
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I'm curious to see the application and what information is required to qualify. I'm just starting so I haven't sold any rods yet. I do have a business name, as a sole propreitor, but no tax # as my CPA saw no reason at this time. The business name isn't something most would associate with rods though. Then one has to wonder what "build quality" means. It isn't hard to wrap a sing
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Fred, with one of the new magnetic controlled baitcasters (and a friends help maybe) you can be casting just fine in a couple of hours. It is well worth the effort IMHO. The reels have come a long way and the learning curve is quite shallow as a result. Just don't try casting a big penn senator:)
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Glad I saw this. Better to spend a little more and end up with industry standard connections IMHO. What chuck do you guys like with the Taig headstock. What thread is the Taig?
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Wayne, there are several ways to do a spiral wrap. When you mention a bumper guide that defines the method you have picked. It is rather different than the LOST method. Ray gave you good advice for the bumper guide. Low is the key and its job is to keep the line off the blank. Personally I haven't made a final decision. The bumper looks easy. The revolver looks like it might allow for th
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FWIW Wayne, I'm building much the same rod but 40# class. I went with rainshadow rclb70ml blank and virtus lite guides in 316. For 50# you might want the rclb70m and regular virtus (or turbo style if you like them).
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Ken, I must have misunderstood you. Back on the first page you said it broke about an inch below the first guide on the tip section. I took that to mean the guide immediately below the tip top. But now you are saying the rod broke at about the 1/2 way point. So I am thinking the first guide that you mentioned is the one near the ferrule??? I see those as very different. IMHO there is no p
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All of my non-fishing related rod breakages have occurred near the tip, certainly in the last 15% of the rod. I'm hard pressed to see how a legitimate break can happen so close to the tip.
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Roger, the power supply is already built. Wall voltage into a 75 volt center tapped transformer into full wave rectifier setup with 10,000 mike cap. I can run a variac before this DC supply or a potentiometer/triac on the output side. 115 volt is weird as most are 90 VDC. It is an elevator door operator motor. I have been assured it will run at a crawl and handle a dead stall for days at a
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Roger, the motor I have is a 1/6HP, 1150 RPM, 115VDC permanant magnet. I was planning 2:1 on the drive package. This would give me 0-575 or 0-2300 depending on how I used the sheaves. Now you mention wrapping at speeds near 1,000 rpm and that brings up the option of direct coupling the motor. Using a v-belt gives me flexibility and some safety though. I can salvage things from work so I'm
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Thanks guys. I did search but diodn't find much on rpm ranges. Lots of good ideas in the photo section. Chris, are those inline skate wheels? Jim, I hear you can purchase a very good rod at wallmart:) Blame my dad....he would turn in his grave if I ever bought something rather than built it myself (and yes I built my first car). It is all part of the fun for me. Just lacked some essent
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Any source for nice looking ones in large sizes? Like 17 to 20mm range?
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I'm looking to cobble up a power wrapper. It would be nice to be able to do cork/EVA handle work as well. If you could have any range of RPM's your heart desired what would you pick? It is likely I'll have to reverse sheaves to get the rpm needed for handle work. With that in mind is there a range of rpm's where fine control would be especially desirable? Perhaps something like 0-250 rpm's?
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Mo, it might have something to do with the rod and its intended duty. I would load a salt water rod a lot more during guide placement than a bass rod fishing the same pound test. No matter how fast a blank is it will bend if pushed enough. I just don't trust most fresh water rods to dead lift the pound test I'll fish on them....and I won't trust a salt water rod that can't!
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Andrew, it could be from oils on your skin when you wrapped the threads. It could be the thread got something on it. It doesn't take much. One dusting with furniture polish could ruin the area for a long time! Also, try putting on a heavier coat. You want the epoxy to flow off the brush without the brush actually touching the blank. Better to put on too much, let it flow and level, and th
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I agree Kirk and would love to hook up with others in my area. I'm near Miami and I just can't fathom that there aren't any. The few that do wrap, and that I have contacted, act like they don't want to give up trade secrets and hurt their business.
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In general...count on about a 10-12' rod capable of casting upwards of 4-6 ounces of lead. Figure around 15# test on the reel. That should get you in the ballpark. From there it depends on how he fishes. Some guys will throw small jigs for pompano with 8# line and some will fish a few sand fleas with a 4 ounce sinker on 20# test.....so it depends. Down here we don't fish long rods much so
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Bruce I'm old and dumb too. Old enough to have used about every guide made and dumb enough to keep looking for solutions to problems I don't have. Over the years the most durable guide for me has been a wire frame foul proof type. They are little more than a formed coil of stainless wire, with perhaps a hard chrome plating. It takes a lot to bend them but they are easily fixed if you do. T
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Terry and Jeremy, yes a light dimmer can be used to control the speed for a universal motor, AKA ac/dc motor or sewing machine motor. Most important thing is to do as much speed reducing with your pulley setup and as little as possible with your foot peddle or dimmer. It has to do with back EMF and such.
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Todd, are any of them intended for salt water....kingfish/dolphin/sails, etc.
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I'm sure Billy will chime in. His blanks look very impressive from what I see but have never held one. I'm down in Miami and we don't have the big tuna. However we don't consider the Trevala capable for even a moderate sized amberjack or grouper. They are nice and light and fine for snapper but they bottom out on anything decent. For store bought rods the OTI is considered way better. Tak
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Thanks guys. I can see certain things. The ability to have the dominate hand on the rod...the ability to cast closer to the water so a delicate live bait isn't stunned on the splash down.....perhaps the ability to cast farther as well. I have just always felt more in control with a convential on big strong fish that head for the bottom. Those that fight on top are fine on spinning gear. I
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Maybe OT but with the cast of experts here I must ask. Other than the impossibility of backlashing during casting, what advantage would a spinning reel have over a convential reel for catching fish like tuna assuming the same line is used on both.
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The scarlet, 326 I think, will be about the color on the "new" marker for new posts on this marker. If you use an regular thread it will turn to a maroon once the finish is on, about the color of your average red wine. You might call Penn. There are so many colors and brands and I haven't seen the rod.
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Penn 3/0 is a reel.....but I'll assume it is mounted on a penn rod. If the color combo is black, gold, and red. I'd guess NCP 335 or 326.
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How long are you letting the finish set before flexing the rod?
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Thanks Sean. It seems to have worked out okay. Pointed a lamp at the one wrap with a fisheye and it is okay now. I'll see how the one I wiped with DNA does tomorrow. I was feeling rushed and a 1/4" brush makes for slow work when you have a 3.5" underwrap. It might have been fine if I didn't try to touch it up.
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Today was the day to get brave and do my first epoxy finish job. I'm barely 1/2 way done and get a call that the ex's burglar alarm is going off. Now I'm rushing and that is never good. Anyhow I had some fisheyes that I didn't recognize as such at first. Thought they were air bubbles....wouldn't blow or flame out and when I tired to add a little more finish it became apparent. Still had to
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