I have a bunch of cobra. Its pattern is different than the diamondback and copperhead. If you're interested, PM me.
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I went to a power wrapper (the Am Tak) last year, and it was the best thing I ever did. My hands are getting arthritic, and while hand wrapping small guides without an underwrap is not a problem (and can easily be done on this wrapper), doing the long underwraps on large diameter blanks hurts physically. I actually counted the number of rotations on one of my underwraps for a butt wrap...it w
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Elmer's Lt. oak if ABSOLUTELY necessary, and U-40 Cork Sealer.
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I have adopted a somewhat different mindset regarding guides. Micro? Macro? Big honking guides? I think the question about using micros is the wrong question. Question # 1: What do you want the rod to do? What weight are you going to throw? What is the intended quarry? Is distance the primary objective? Looking to fight huge fish on small wands? Or are you making a "Jack of all t
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Hey Billy...the redfishing should be hot then, and the tarpon never cooled off this year. Save some time! (Karen and I live 30 minutes from Mudhole)
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On a theoretical level, the ring being closer to the blank might translate to additional sensitivity, because there is less frame between the ring and the guide foot. On a practical level, I don't think you would ever notice a difference.
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I wrap in a host of colors, using Metro poly thread (similar to Madeira) in many of my wraps. Because the thread is silicone treated, ALL my wraps get CP. I have used Flexcoat in the past, but I have recently been VERY happy with Cason's solvent-based. I have never had an issue with strength (and some of my rods have taken bluefin tuna over 1,000 lbs). I still fish with rods I built 35 ye
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Rule of thumb...graphite tubing runs about a buck an inch from most suppliers.
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In a previous lifetime (one of many), I was the Consumer Affairs Manager at Ben & Jerry's (as well as a Customer Loyalty consultant to some very large corporations. Henderson's #1 Rule of creating deliriously happy and loyal customers: "When you mess up, 'fess up." Guys, I offer this for your consideration: Doctors know that if they make an error in the diagnosis or treatment of a
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Hal Brown in CT has been selling components for a very long time, as was Mildrum in Berlin, CT. Herters was selling components in the 50s...I still have some of their stuff. Not sure if Klein's of Chicago sold components...they DID sell lots of sporting goods.
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I used a MHX blank (not a fly blank) to make a 6'3" fly rod for 9 wt line. The flats guide I built it for LOVES it.
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The retail store is open Saturday...not sure about catalog orders
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At first I though this was a case of splitting hairs: whether or not the company had filed Chapter 11 or 13 made little practical difference to the folks who wanted but were unable to buy their thread but could not because it wasn't being produced. There is another factor to consider here, however. In the internet age, where information (accurate or not) is shared at the speed of thought, sayin
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Whatever the reason, it's a sad day to see the company in this situation. I have been using Gudebrod thread longer than many of the people on this board have been using air. It's like watching an old friend struggling with an illness that may or may not be terminal.
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I use cone-shaped bits in my drill press. Mark the cork centers, and the drill press will make certain the bit emerges exactly opposite its entry point. Very suitable drill presses are available new from about $40...even less used.
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Glitter is better mixed with the epoxy than sprinkled on. Sulky makes a sampler of different colors. It's available at most Michael's craft stores. Their glitter is very fine...micro-glitter.
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I have one over 1,200, 6 over 1,000 and more than I can recall over 500. All caught either fishing off Montauk Point/Block Island, Gloucester, or off Prince Edward Island. There aren't nearly as many big ones these days as there were in the late 70s and early 80s, but there are still enough to make me think you are a very brave man.
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Here's another thought: Contact Lance at Swampland and ask him about the Castaway SWA P-905. This is actually a 4 power rod that is rated for 1/2-1 oz, 12-20 lb line, and is balanced beautifully by the Stradic 3000. It does a bang-up job on snook, trout and reds, and it can "walk the dog" with the best of them. There isn't a redfish alive that this combo won't handle, but it's plent
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I'm sitting on an invitation from Clem to try some of that torch fuel...Bil, squeeze some more out (and leave the corn behind).
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Bear in mind that Bluefin can go well over 1,000 lbs. I'm sure spinning tackle has come a long way, but I am not sure I would want to fight a 1,200 lb tuna on a spinning rod of ANY size. Let me know how this works out. Good luck.
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Ditto on that. I would go with the Stradic 3000. And don't worry about the reel's line rating. The 3000 (or the 2500) will work fine.
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And the first spinning rod I owned (at age 4 or 5) had no reel seat and no rings. The reel was taped to the cork.
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Walt, if you are going to use the water-based on Madeira or Metro poly threads, be sure to do a color test first. The solvent-based works fine with these threads, but the water-based has caused me some color-change problems.
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On the rare occasions I use tape, it is the blue painter's tape that removes easily with no residue. Typically, however, I use either surgical tubing or Flexcoat Guide Foot Adhesive.
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Walter, the advice not to use the solvent-based CP came from Mr. Cason himself at the Expo. He was quite specific about it. I can say that his water-based product works very well on snake skin. I have used his solvent-based product for feather inlays, and it does a terrific job for that application. It is also an excellent choice for Madeira and Metro poly threads.
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Do NOT use a solvent-based CP with snake skin. Water-based CP wets the skin and makes it flexible and pliable. Solvent-based CP dries the skin and makes it hard to work with.
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Yep...B is the darker-colored of the two...the hardener.
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The Batson Titaniums ARE nice, no doubt about it, but don't disregard their new RX 6 popping blanks. Price point is lower, but still a darned good blank. I have already built 4 rods on them. Chuck, that's beautiful. I'm not a fan of split grips or carbon grips on my personal rods, but for light weight you can't beat that type of grip coupled with that reel.
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Yes, 99 % of the fishing public is downright cheap. The good news is that the remaining 1% still represents a LARGE number of people who fish. It is true that the vast number of people (in my area, at least) spend less than $50 for a rod and reel combination to use for all their fishing needs. That tackle is going to be used to fish from shore for catfish and flounder, sunfish and bass, and th
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I have tried most of what is out there for the very same fish. My hands-down favorite at ANY price is the Castaway SWA P905. Also called the 765, it is actually a 4 power rod. Medium heavy power, throws a lure a country mile but will not rip a delicate bait off the hook on the cast. This is the best rod for the above stated purposes I have ever owned, and my local flats guides agree. Swamp
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