Grant, I have to give credit to Mike Barkley for this idea. If you have an inlay already it is possible to scan it into your computer then print it on decal paper. It will be much thinner and easier to wrap around the small diameter of a fly blank. Vic
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I gree with Tom, as far as performance and quality they stack right up there with anyone else. They are a little fast for my personal taste/skill but I am not an over achiever with a fly rod. I have built them for guys that are much more serious about it than I am and they seem to love them. Vic
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I use the quill nibs like Bob. Occasionally I use testors but most of the time I use acrilyic ink. Winsor and Newton is the brand tat works best for me. Check your local hobby store. I don't CP mine just scuff, write, dry with hair dryer for a few min's then finish. With practice you can write pretty small. I even sign ice rods. Vic
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Same as Pat and Jay. Several light coats one at a time. Put finish on, and onto the dryer. If I am covering a long area ie. butt wrap, feather inlay etc. then I will turn the drums on my dryer a little offset from eachother. I think it helps to level out the finish a bit. The key for myself is light coats. Vic
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Carlos, You've got mail. Let me know how it turns out. Vic
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Thanks Roger, Pretty much my mode of operation. I just think that if I were to build another one I would make it a little bitt bigger. Mine only allows for 3" +- between rods and I have big hands. Summer it is not too bad, if I build 8 rods in a day I have been way too busy :). Ice rods are when it gets hectic. The thing runs almost nonstop. Thanks, Vic
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Thanks Tom, now I have another reason to go to the expo. The light cabinet rings a bell. I didn't realize it had been that long ago. I will check into Diamondite.
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Does anyone know if there is a faster finish out there. A few years ago I saw a UV activated finish for repairs. I am looking for something to use for quick repairs to get the rod back in service. Thanks, Vic
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Carlos, One word of advice. I have a drum dryer and like it but make sure to leave enough space between the notches to get your hand in to put the rubber bands on when it's full. I wish I had left more space, it gets tight and sometimes I end up touching the rod next to the one I am putting on. Also, make it bigger than you think you need, mine only holds 8 rods, fine most of the time during th
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Tom, I don't care how many times I see that inlay it always impresses me. What is that winding check made out of? Vic
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John, Unhide your email or hit me up on mine. Vic
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Brock, The problem I can see with painting aluminum is adhesion. Aluminum is a very difficult metal to get paint to stick to successfully. That is why most aluminum boats weren't painted until recently. I painted bare aluminum truck bodies and aircraft for several years and there is a definite process that you have to use. The aluminum has to be washed,rinsed, etched, rinsed and alodined th
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I will try to email anyone interested so as not to hijack this thread. The price is going to vary with pattern, and number of pieces etc. I really hadn't thought about marketing it here since Mudhole came out with their blanks a few years ago. Anyone interested can email me and I will try to ballpark you as close as possible. Thanks, Vic
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Harold, Give me an email I can dip paint the blank of your choice for you using the same process they use for bow and guns (hydroimmersion).I have done several of my personal rods for years. Vic
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Mike, Just my opinion but if you damage the seat taking it off it will be much harder to replace than a couple of guides and a hookkeeper. I would assume that given the trouble getting it off it is probably glued directly to the blank (no filler). I can cut off three guides and a hookkeeper and replace in alot less time than it takes to replace a seat. And Idont' have the worry of damaging th
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Wow! O.K...... Just my opinion but here goes. Personally I am a big fan of Batson rod blanks and I believe the IP series is a good place to start here. They seem to be pretty useful in a lot of situations. I have built several for myself and among other uses I use it for a crawler/spawn bag etc. with split shot in the river for trout and steelhead. Works for me. BLANK: IP902 7'6" mod
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Scott, I am currently building a Batson IP840. It is rated for 4-6 lb line and 1/32-3/16 oz. 7' 1 piece moderate fast . I am going to use it primarily for small stream trout but it will see use this spring for gills on their beds. Matte clear finish so it would go well with your choice of colors. just my .02 Vic
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Thanks, Dan. The lunch was great and I learned alot! Mike I am working on trying to make it to High Point. Thanks for the help with the logo. Al, thanks for the help with the wrap. I am working on that too. I will post photos. Mark, I showed my wife the picture of one of your rods when I got home and she says it's to pretty to fish with!! LOL My thoughts exactly. Billy, I haven't m
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My personal favorite for this is Batsons IST1143 the tip is fast enough to allow easy casting but still soft enough to allow a good hook set and protect the line in case he hooks a big king or coho. I also use mine for "chukin and duckin" with bait (spawn usually) in the spring. BTW the salmon should be biting in ST Joe right now with the recent rain... got to go. Vic
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Thanks everyone, I agree this is not the blank I would personally use but this is what he is looking for. Bill, I will check into the Castaway XP3 874 you have my attention. Thanks again, Vic
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I guess I should clarify, this is a bass slop rod. thanks, Vic
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Any suggestions for a blank ? I would rather not extend one unless I have to.
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I just realized I should have posted this in the buy and sell area sorry. Vic
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Does anyone have a CB76M on hand they can part with? I have an order that I need to get built but cant put my hands on one. I tried the IP903 but my customer wasnt completely happy with it.
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