Beulah has the best blanks that I have built on.
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Jann's Netcraft has some. They might fit? Here is a link to the page to where I saw some:
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"Thank You" cards, Christmas cards, newsletters, etc. to remind the customer that you are still around and appreciative of their business. If sent by e-mail they cost virtually nothing, but if they're hand written, they mean a lot more.
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I built a 7 wt and like it a lot, especially considering the price. I put a SA wet tip WF-200-S on one spool and a standard WF - 7- F line on the another. It works OK for me, but there may be something much better that I should be using. I'm just getting started in two-hand casting.
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I 'm no statistician, but wouldn't the number of samples required be dependent upon the variation in the results? If 3 random blanks break at exactly the same load, then 3 or 4 might be all that would be necessary to test. On the other hand, if the first 3 and subsequent blanks break at dramatically different loads then 50 blanks might not be enough. Does sample size have something to do with
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Beulah just came out with a new 11' surf rod. They sell blanks of their other rods so I assume that this one is available too. Here is their ad:
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You might be interested in the story that I ran across concerning the 11 pound 15 ounce smallmouth. "No one has beaten the world record for smallmouth bass that was set by David Hayes on one sunny July afternoon in 1955. It was on that day that while trolling on Dale Hollow Reservoir, Tennessee, he landed an 11 pound, 15 ounce monster. To this day it still stands, blowing away its closest
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How does wax protect a graphite rod? I understand how it would make them shine, but what does it protect the rod from?
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I use steam to soften the epoxy and a new razor blade to cut the the wraps above the guide feet when possible.
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Those are big rivers and the Deschutes has steelhead. You might want to consider a 6 or 7 weight that will handle the steelhead and buck the wind better. I would also consider a switch rod. They are usually about 10' - 6" long and can be cast either with one hand or two for extra distance. Just a thought.
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I would try wrapping a rubber band or two tightly around the blank. Keep moving the band(s) to different positions until you find a sweet spot that seems to dampen the unwanted vibration. Then replace the band(s) with a thread wrap of equal weight. Not a great solution, but it might be worth a try unless you want to start replacing and/or repositioning guides.
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If this is a fly rod I'd go with a 8 or 9 wt switch rod 10'-6" blank to help keep the line off of the water on the back cast. Beulah and Batson make them
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Now I am confused. If friction is a function of pressure and there is very little pressure on the tip top on a cast (and therefore very little friction) what is wearing out the tip top?
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So why is it that the stripper guides are the only ones that are usually ceramic? Or is it because the strippers are ceramic, they show little wear? "The tiptop. Not because it handles the most load (it doesn't) but because of 2 main factors: First, the angle of the line at that point is more severe than at any other guide." To me, it seems like the tip top does handle the most load
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Assuming the same guide material throughout, on which guide(s) of a fly rod do you usually see the most wear? Will a spey rod wear at the same points?
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Recoil guides are hands down the lightest when comparing guides of equal opening size. They are at least 1/3 the weight of comparable guides in my experience. On a 5 wt. the Recoil's "groove factor" should be a non-issue in most people's lifetime.
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A piece of 1/4" threaded rod that's about 3" longer than your grip, (2) 1/4" flat washers and (2) 1/4" wing nuts that fit the threaded rod is what I use.
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From the 70's.....that's not old.
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From the GLOSSARY: "Or with regard to the fibers used to make fishing rods, "Modulus of Elasticity," refers to the relationship between stress and strain. In more simple terms relative to rod building, it usually defines the stiffness to weight ratio of the fibers used to construct the rod blank. Generally speaking, the higher the modulus of the fiber used to make the blank, the l
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I would recommend a 9', 5 wt kit that is offered by Hook and Hackle or Cabela's. They both come with EVERYTHING you need including thread, epoxy, etc.
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Beulah has a 10'-6" switch rod that's 8-9 or 9-10 wt that should fill your requirements. It's green, 4 piece, and sells for about $200.
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A furled leader will totally eliminate your problem, but they do tend to spray when you lift off the water.
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For $125 I built a 4 piece, 5 wt rod from a Beulah blank. I've built on Cabela's and Batson's best (at the time) and the Beulah is by for the best IMHO.
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Just a few points to keep in mind: 1. Not all company decisions are good decisions. (Ford Edsel and New Coke) 2. Any company that bases its economic decision solely on product volumes and ignores their profits will not be around for the long haul. (grocery store loss leaders come to mind) 3. Pillsbury still manages to sell bags of flour (analogous of rod blanks) whiles also selling their
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Cabela's sells some.
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They don't call it "pressure treated lumber" for nothing. A vacuum is used to remove air from around the cell to make room for the preservative, but pressure is added to drive in the preservative.
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I would dump the dye and cork into a simple weed sprayer and start pumping. A good sprayer should give you about 30 psi or about twice the pressure that you will get out of the best vacuum pump that money can buy.
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A perfect vacuum can only develop 14.6 psi (one atmosphere) of pressure. If you can place the cork and dye in a pressurized container, the pressure that can be obtained is only limited by the strength of the container and the energy available. I'm guessing that a carrier like chloroform will penetrate further than water due to its lower surface tension and viscosity. Chloroform has about hal
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If you use Duane's method, wrap a single layer of tape on both sides of the area to be filed. Be sure that the file is wide enough to reach both pieces of tape. This will insure that you will keep the file parallel to the rod and not dig into the blank. I would start with masking tape and then progress to scotch tape. GO SLOW. Use crocus cloth glued to a flat piece of metal or wood for the
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beulahflyrods.com They have both switch rod and spey rod blanks.
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