I built the 965 if I remember correctly. I wanted a little more power to rip baits through the cabbage weeds and coontail that I fish around regularly. Spiral wrapped with micro alconites, spilt grip consisting of about 8 rings of cork total, and a split seat. I can't wait for the ice to melt!!!
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Check out some of the Castaway blanks at Swampland. They are priced in your range, and are light with plenty of power to handle the 1/2 oz. weights. I recently finished up a build on an 8' crankbait rod that weighs just under 3oz and would handle a "Lindy Rig" here in Minnesota, aka Carolina rig just fine. I'm sure Lance would be more than happy to help you get set up.
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I use rod bond most often, but have also used devcon epoxy. I turn mine on my drill press and use sandpaper or sanding screen to shape the grips. A flat file squares the ends nicely.
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Just a guess, but I think most are ordering pre-made rings from one of the sponsors at the left side of the page. I know Mudhole has them in various sizes.
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I picked up a bunch of tip ends of broken rods at a Cabela's store in the "bargain cave" a couple months back... I didn't think to look for extension pieces, but that may be a good source as well. I paid $1 a piece for the tip sections, and they all had guides and tip tops as well. I managed to get around $70 worth of guides give or take for about $8, plus can use the blank sections
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Buzz- Is that too big to send as an email? Trinity
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I need to start saving pennies! Buzz Can I get a copy of your power point from your presentation? If so, you can email it to trinity_bass@yahoo.com
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can you look through back issues on the bassmaster web site?
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x2 for rod bond
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I think St. Croix sells what you are looking for as far as blanks and tip tops, not sure about winding checks though. Check the list of sponsor on the left side of the page like Jann's Netcraft, and Mudhole may also be helpful. You could just build an epoxy ramp instead of using a winding check.
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Buzz, if I could get a copy of your power point I would greatly appreciate it as well. I teach in a rural community with several at risk students that may really get into building their own fishing rods. I believe I met you a few years back at the St. Croix Factory at a rod building get together. You are the foam inlay guy right?
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i will pay to have it shipped if you still have it. you can email me at trinity_bass@yahoo.com
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Yeah, I was just playing devil's advocate, and agree that a less flexible blank will deifnitely transmit vibrations better than a soft noodle of a blank. However, the ability to detect a strike is what determines the sensitivity of a rod is it not? Therefore, at some times, as I stated above, a more flexible rod may be deemed more sensitive than a rod that doesn't flex much at all...
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I think there was an article in rod maker last year or later that tom wrote regarding sensitivity and how it may be determined on an individual basis. To me, a rod that has a lot of flex can be just as sensitive as a rod that is rigid and has little flex. If I remember right, there was a point made in the article that a rod that is being used by a catfisherman on the bank would likely be consid
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Can't wait to throw cranks/ traps on the 8' Castaway I got form Swampland! It's the 964 I believe, MHM with lots of flex and appears to have good power as well. Too bad I have to wait for the ice to melt off the lakes...
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IT'S ALIVE AND WELL!!!!
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must be something wit my service provider or something... still not working for me...
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Is anyone else having trouble getting to the Swampland site? I have tried a couple times this am and I get a message that says," oops, this link appears to be broken." What the heck is going on??? I tried to google swampland and same thing...
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I am looking to build another crankbait rod for myself this year. I have a couple of 7' St. Croix in SCIV, but am looking for something longer. Any suggestions in the St. Croix line up? How about the Castaway blanks? Are the Castaways graphite, glass, or a mix? I checked them out on Swamplands site, just want a little more info on them if possible. Thanks in advance. Trinity
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I have landed 7 muskies this year alone up to 44 inches on a scIII 70hf wrapped with micros, so I doubt that an 8lb northern ripped those guides off unless there was a solid obstruction on the line between the guides and the fish. More likely the rod locker ate them...
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I started using the seats in Mr. Stevens' post above this year, and they are awesome! They are easy to ream if need be and feel great to fish with while palming the reel. I would absoulutely recommend them to one and all. Best of all, the guys at Swampland have great customer service and are very helpful.
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I usually go with a size smaller than I need and slowly ream to fit. This usually eliminates the need for an arbor under the threaded part of the seat. I also trim off excess threads on the seat so the lock nut is flush withthe end of te threads when a reel is mounted.
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I have built a few musky rods for myself and others. I would try to go with a split rear grip if possible and even eliminate the fore grip as well. If you can do anything to reduce the weight it will make the rod that much more enjoyable to fish with over the length of a day of throwing those big baits... Size A thread will work fine. Double footers are nice, but aren't absolutely necessary i
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I have used the liquid Gel pens and they work well once the ball in the pen gets rolling and moves the ink. Le tthe ink dry and cover with finish. CP may be a good Idea to put over the ink before the finish. The neat part about these pens is that they come in a large variety of colors.
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For those of you that have built a micros on top casting rod how do you like it? Anything you would have done differently than you did? Did you use more guides than you would have to build a spiral wrap to keep the line off the blank or did that issue not concern you? A lot of questions I know, but I have a guy interested in a guides on top rod with micros, but I have not built one this way, a
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I have a SCIII 70mlf that I built a couple years ago and absolutely love it. You acn't go wrong with any of teh St. Croix blanks in my opinion.
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I have been using a science probe, like the ones used to disect frogs and worms and such. It is metal, so that eliminates bubbles from forming in the bristles of the brush because there aren't any bristles. I also don't turn the drying motor on until I have covered all wraps with finish. I rotate the blank by hand until I am ready to turn the motor on. I have done my finishes this way since I
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I have a few in different sizes. Not sure if there are any 7 or 8 sizes, but I am sure I have some of the bigger sizes. You can email me at trinity_bass@yahoo.com Leave me a mailing address and I will try to get some sent out early next week.
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I ususally just eyeball the placement before teh static test. If the guides need to move, move them a little. If you feel comfortable with the fuji concept set up to start then go with it. The positioning may or may not change, it depends on the results of your static test.
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Brian- Go with the regular tip top. It might look a little odd, but will work better as stated above. I recently wrapped an sc370hf and sc4 711hmf using the simple spiral with the alconite 4's as running guides. Go ahead and use the tiny guides, you won't look back once you do!
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