Ever notice how well the old Zebco 33's handled fairly heavy mono? Squint your eyes when you look at a Microwave and you can almost see a Zebco 33.
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Here is a rod that uses two different Papilio media with a Canon ink jet printer.
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Tom, does larger diameter and stiffer line move the choke point out? thanks, Mick
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Mike Barkley is back! Must be doing ok, welcome back , Mike
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If you are to do much reaming of cork there is nothing that I have found that works as well as the Batson Dream Reamer. It may be put into a drill chuck also.
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Another possibility is if the CP did not dry long enough. I have had it happen with some brands more than others, and it doesn't always look identical from wrap to wrap. For some brands overnight drying is required between coats, and yes, some brands require more coats. Another reason that I don't use CP unless I really cannot get a color I want without it.
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Regular cork will certainly be lighter than epoxy. Not so sure about burl. Reel seat shims, I believe, are even lighter and very easy to turn. May be painted any color. Check out my link above.
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I expect Mudhole's ice rod checks would work. Another way is to wind right up to the cork, use india ink to color the front of the cork, then use somewhat thickened epoxy to form a "filet" between the blank and the cork. It comes out a beautiful black shiny curve.
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If you are after a white background the best I've found is the Papilio "waterproof white vinyl decal media." I've used paper, but it is very hard to get good quality compared with the papilio. I've done tons of decals, using text, photos, original logos, holographic media, clear media, all in peel and stick. I'd be glad to answer specific questions, just e-mail me. For some work I w
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Here is another option.
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I have had the groove worn into "cheap" tiptops on store rods. i have never had a guide show that groove. So I use SIC or something close to it in hardness for the tiptops. And have never seen one groove yet. This strategy will add only a couple bucks to a build.
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If you can mount the foregrip onto a piece of threaded rod and chuck it in a drill press, you should be able to turn it down quite easily using sandpaper. Similar to Gary Thorton's suggestion.
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My experience with Pro Kote is that it is indeed softer than other epoxies. I had to retie a guide on a rod done with Pro Kote, and I took the whole coat of Pro Kote off with my finger nail. Is that too soft? I'm not sure. It held the guide on until it was overstressed by being jammed into a too small rod tube. I really think that it is OK, just softer than some others. I like its clarity, a
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Look at @#$%& for any version of Paint Shop Pro. You can get the X4 version for less than $30, and if you handle CAD, you should be able to handle PSP. All graphics programs are a little "strange," and take some getting used to. With PSP you can do any graphics design for decals and also fix your fishing photos in a snap. Have trouble with off-level horizons on fishing photos taken
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Not sure about the 12 footer, but if you get the longest 3 weight fly rod you can find, then build it as a spinning rod, it will make a great panfish rod sort of in the vein of what you describe. Batson has a nine foot 3 wt. Not sure I would want 12 feet, but not sure exactly what you want to do with it.
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I have had a couple graphite rods break in the last couple inches of the blank and I'm quite confident mine were broken in compression impact from the tip hitting the end of a rod locker while trailering. Also had a friend's rod break in a similar fashion in very rough water with the rod probably similarly impacting a "bulkhead" in the boat. Is it possible this rod struck the end of
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OK, Lou, please define green reel and hula hoops rings and googan. I have often been accused of being naive, so please help out.
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For a pier rod I would think the main priority is long distance casting of the weight you intend to fish, so wouldn't that mean max length within reason is the way to go? Jeb, why would you cut a blank off 6 inches? I'm no expert on this type rod, so I may have missed something. I can't find a blank in their catalog called 1143f, assume it is graphite? I'm certainly with you on graphite for a
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I expect if done right, it can be a good rod, but there are so many ways to screw it up that unless you have experience doing it, I strongly recommend doing another rod designed to be a 2 piece. No one can have too many fishing rods, but screw that one up and you will find yourself quickly with too few. I wouldn't even do it if I had a lot of experience.
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Donald R has it right, but going further, I suggest you try Papilio's waterproof white vinyl media instead of paper labels. Use matte photo paper printer settings, and you'l get great labels/decals. It sitll needs the Donald R fixative.
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And when you put the new tiptop on , don't use epoxy, use the hot melt tip top cement. It will come off at a lower temp, but will be reliable in the field.
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With the small size of most of the length of the rod blank, I don't think you would recognize the digital camo pattern over most of its length. To simplify the process it may be possible to paint the blank one of the colors present in the digital camo over most of the rod length, do windings in another color, and use decals just in the grip area of the digital camo pattern. Mudhole has it in th
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Google "US Navy" with the google search set to search for images. Lots of possibilities with the Navy seal. Consult with your father in law and find out the hull numbers of the ships and when he was on them. Then google in regular search mode for the name of the ship and read its history. You'll find out where it was when, and you may find some good images that are probably free
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Stephanie, one option is to have your main logo, not specific to rod model/specs, done professionally so you won't be limited on colors, and you can order in quantity for reasonable cost, then do your specs yourself in colors that will show up on the specific blank. Inkjets can do a pretty brignt yellow/gold (not sparkely) that shows well on dark colored blanks, and the lighter blanks can use an
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If you are handy with a computer you can design your own quite easily. Programs like Paint Shop Pro and Photoshop work well. Some decal shops do have specific format requirements, so you might consult with them before you start. Call the Decal Connection (sponsor on left) and talk with them-they are expert and very helpful in communicating what they can do, the costs, formats, the whole enchil
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There are also colored "tapes" available at Mudhole, and tennis racquet overgrips are very nice, tacky, light. If you use tapes instead of the rings it will most likely be more secure and more comfortable.
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I find usually if I get the rod to balance in a neutral way that the butt length is so long that it gets caught on my elbow clothing when doing just about anything but tip-up jigging/dragging. I actually cut about 1 1/2 inches off a very expensive blank once in order to make the rod "fishable" with my normal techniques. So before worhipping neutral balance, make sure the butt isn't ge
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Keep agonizing over these two and forget glass. There may be a glass blank, but I've never found it, that can compare with graphite for weight, and graphite can match any action of glass. IMHO
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To be fair to both Decal Connections and James Bare, it will cost more than $5 to have custom decals done by anyone, and will cost more than $5 to buy media to do them yourself on your home computer. The advantages of having Decal Connections do your decals is that you will be getting the colors you want, intense colors if you want, colors that will hold up to just about anything, they are easy
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Buy some brightly colored very small cable ties, stick the small end into the micro, cut off the excess. When it falls you'll easily find it.
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