I suspect those holes are part of the threes system for getting water and nutrients upstairs. Most trees use their bark and underbark for that purpose. Sort of like the trees plumbing system. Been too long since biology class and can't remember the technical names but thats what I always thought the little system of holes in cork was for. Ray
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Acetone is a solvent for epoxy so I would try something a lot milder like dish detergent and water. Ray
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bummer!!!!
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Well........................................... How about this. If Andy or any of the other cork ring manufacturers are out there. Would it be possible to make a batch of this old style burl cork if enough of us who wanted it committed to buy up the whole batch? I would commit to 1,000 rings maybe more if I had to in order to make it happen. I know Charlie Reading would buy another 1
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Thanks fellas, Sounds like my suspicions were right and the composition has changed...thus the look has changed. I'm with you Mike. I wish it would come back. Even though it is a composite this stuff looks natural and very earthy when turned. It really is my favorite cork and I have enough for one more rod. If any of you out there have any in the attic or in a box under the pile in t
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I have a question for some of you guys who have been around a long time. I have enough cork stock to build one more rod and I am getting a bit nervous because the cork I like I am having trouble finding. I have bought several rings of this from Charlie Reading over the years but his supply is drying up and he is also having trouble finding the same rings. 7-8 year ago I used to buy these
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Thanks Tom, That's what I wanted to know. Ray
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Here are pics of that part of my setup up. As you can see I have the angle adjustment taken care of. The real thing I am concerned about is do I need a height adjustment on it as well? Or does the 1/8 or so difference in the rods I build not make that much difference? I guess what I am really asking is how absolutely critical is it that the level top of the rod be on the 0 inch mar
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I almost have my new common cents set up finished but I have a question about the ERN measuring tool. If I understand this correctly (that's a big if sometimes) The first foot of the rod blank should be level at the top edge and that top edge should be level with the 0 inch mark on the measuring scale. correct? So in theory if you are doing rods with various butt diameters either the ho
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I'll throw in my 2 cents on the subject. Making anything can exist on three basic levels: manufacturing, craft and art. Manufacturing - is basically putting together components to make the same item over and over to a set minimum standard of quality. Craft - takes it a step farther in offering a wider range of options to the consumer than a manufacturer is able to. Craftsmen usually sho
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That is a great bit of info Jim. My question is where does one get dewaxed shellac? Thanks, Ray
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Hey Allen, I use a mac too and I don't woory about much on my personal computer but this guy actually got into our webhost internet server and hit a bunch of people. Ray
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Forgive me Tom if this is out of place here but I wanted to give those of you that have websites a heads up. Apparently sometime in the past couple weeks Holly and I were victims of a hacker who got past security and placed virus items on my website. Gary Lundsford was kind enough to alert me to the situation when he tried to visit my website. Thank you Gary. Anyway Holly has fixed the
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I am working an updating my Common Cents equipment this weekend. Here is a design for a clamp for rod blanks to use to measure ERN ,AA and set guide spacing. I am thinking of making the block out of oak and the clamping piece out of some type of non marring material like a plastic. As long as I mount this fixture so I can still level the centerline of the blank is there any reason this wo
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Mike, That is the thread I remembered. Thanks. How did you find it? I used every combination of search key words I could think of and never found it. Is there a secret to using the search on here that I don't know about. Thanks for the info Scott, The big problem I have is that I am using size 4 gold cermets for the running guides on the last section of this rod and its hard to find
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I am currently working on a WInston 7' 3 Wt. and I am wanting to use a single foot guide on the tip rather than the standard tip top. I have seen directions on here as to how is the best way to wrap those. Seems I remember someone even had pictures. But no matter what I use for key words in a search I can't find it now. Do any of you have a link to that or can tell me the best way to h
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Well Spencer, Dancraft owes you a thanks, I just ordered three of those blanks and guides. I appreciate you pointing those out to me. They are exactly the type of blank I was looking for. Ray
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Thanks for the heads up Spencer :-) Ray
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Thanks for the heads up Spencer :-) Ray
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Hey Tom, I have considered Lamiglass blanks for this project. I really prefer three section blanks over four section blanks though and that 9'3 3 pc blank from fly logic caught my eye. Two piece blanks are a hassle to travel with and to my eye there is a real aesthetic advantage a three piece has over a four piece rod. I tend to be somewhat of an oddball in my taste. I like the l
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I have a couple rods I am wanting to build on fly logic blanks. The purpose of these rods is two fold, 1. I need two rods for salmon fishing in WI and MI this fall. I am looking for a couple 9'3" 3 pc. 9wt blanks. I have broken two rods so far on these trips so I don't want to build these up on T&T or Winston blanks if you know what i mean. The waters we fish in are fairly
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Ya its been a while since I checked in. I'm still alive just been VERY busy. Anyway, I have a question about Guttermann 100 wt. pure silk threads. I have used YLI brand with fairly good success. I have found that the Gutterman is becoming easier to find and it would increase my color selection. Do any of you know if Guttermann silicones their silk thread or not? Has anyone used it
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Just to throw my 2 cents in. I have been buying large stabilized pieces from Wood Stabilization Specialist International up in Iowa. Mike Ludeman is the owners name. GIve him a call and tell him what you need. He is a great guy to work with and he is ultra picky about the quality of burl he stabilizes to sell. For larger diameter rod handle stock I buy pool que blanks. They tend to run
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I have used System 3, Glen-L and West System boat building epoxies in both boats and rods. They are all good products. The West System and System 3 are the best of the boat epoxies in my opinion. Both are very strong, waterproof, plenty flexible and durable. That being said, The reason I use these epoxies on my rods is not because I prefer them over the epoxies directly marketed toward ro
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I just checked the mailbox. Mine aint there yet. Guess I'm just gonna have to wait. Crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ray
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A lot of times you can steam a feather and let it dry in the position you want it to be and it will take a set in that position. Some times feathers have a natural curve as the come off the skin because the grow that way. Feathers can also have a set in them from being stored bent. If the later is the case you can bring it back to its natural shape with steam. I use a little copper tea po
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Well the first thing you need to do is get Tom's book "Rod Builing Guide everything you need to know" . It is available both on @#$%& and at amazon.com and probably other places too. You won't go wrong reading that book before you start building your rod. It will save you a lot of backtracking and headaches. Ray
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THanks Emery, That Club Scout Jr he has for $100 pushes the limit of what I wanted to spend but it looks as if it would work very well. I emailed him with questions on how it would work with a rod. I want to make sure I understand how it works before I buy one. again thanks, Ray
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Morning Bill! I have a Winston and a Scott that I am working currently on.... but I do admit that progress is going slow now that I am trying to re-educate myself on the CCS (and other things rod) and trying to revamp my rod building equip. Its all part of the fun of the process. :-) Ray
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I have been reading again ( ya I know........ sorry guys) and i have a question about measuring resonant frequency. Is their a relatively cheap and easy device for measuring resonant frequency? I'm thinking maybe a timing light set up of some kind or something that counts how many times a laser/light beam is broken between two points as the rod oscillates. Is there anything easy and hillbill
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