Usually, I find that when I make mistakes in production work, it's because I'm taking things for granted or I'm tired. If it's fatigue, I take a rest from whateve it is I'm doing, be it getting a few hours of sleep, or just walking away from the project for a day or two. Otherwise, I make sure I'm not taking mental shortcuts and being careless. Sometimes you just have to go back to basics, and
Forum: rodboard

How about this as a solution? Initially, I was kind of thinking about doing the security wraps in a different color (black) from my primary wrap color for two reasons: 1. My scheme is purple with bands of black followed by small bands of gold at each end, and black security wraps would result in a shorter total wrap. 2. Black security wraps would be less conspicuous. Suppose I was to wrap in
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Thanks for your input gentlemen. Doug, I do believe you have the solution I'm after. I had inquired about the guide foot adhesive a few months ago, but forgot about it. If I lay down strips of masking tape at the front and rear of each guide foot, then stretch a thread down the centerline of the rod aligned with the reel seat, I can mark the exact location of each guide foot, and lay them down
Forum: rodboard

I am building an inshore surf rod on a Lami GSB108 1L using single foot guides in a Fuji New Concept configuration. I've done all my testing, and I'm just about to start wrapping the guides. I plan on using the Forhan locking wrap for durability. My question is how do you do the final alignment on the guides before commiting yourself to the locking portion of the wrap? It has been discussed o
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Thanks, guys. You certainly confirmed my sentiments.
Forum: rodboard

I was all set to build a Lami GSB108 1L for inshore fishing on the north shore of Long Island, until a long time fishing expert told me I was making a mistake not going to a GSB108 1M. He claims it will still throw bomber and 3/4 to 7/8 oz. stuff without any problem, but will provide much more backbone to set a hook and fight a good sized striper or blue, and will give me the ability to heave a
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Thanks, guys. I just wasn't sure how they'd hold up when they're thinned out.
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What's the minimum wall thickness you'll turn a graphite arbor down to before you abandon it in favor of a tape arbor on a reel seat installation?
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Don't forget that by gearing down the motor using either gears or pulleys, you can allow the motor to run faster than if it was on a 1:1 direct drive to your wrapper or dryer. If you're worried about long hours of drying at low speeds, you can always use the sewing machine motor for wrapping and something slow like a rotisserie motor for drying. On my home made rig, I have both types of motors
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You can always take a utility knife and a straight edge and cut a 1" belt into 2 half inch belts.
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I'm doing a little advanced planning. I have an EVA fore grip I'm thinking about using on a surf rod. The I.D. of the grip is 1/2 inch, and the blank where the front of the fore grip will sit appears to be the same size or slightly larger, but probably not by much more than a few hundredths of an inch, while where the rear of the grip will sit is obviously a bit larger. I plan on using Rod B
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The arbors sand pretty easily. I took a short section of the appropriate diameter wood dowel, and used a little electrical tape so that the arbor would slide onto the dowel but not twist too easily. Then I chucked it into my drill press and sanded with light pressure. Because a drill press doesn't support the dowel at both ends, it's important to use a dowel which will sufficiently fill the ch
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I'm trying to convert some Fuji SIC guide suggestions and convert them over to the appropriate Alconite guides. Can anyone tell me if I've got the correct crossovers? Thanks. YSG30J = BYAG30J YSG20J = BYAG20J YSG12J = BYAG12J LSG10J = BLAG10J
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This is probably a private labeled Daiwa Interline. Daiwa has been making the product for years. They used to have a surf model, but these days, I believe they've limited it to freshwater, from 5'9" to 7'3". I've never heard raves about them, although noone seems to be displeased. The inside of the rod has a rifling, which supports the line and removes water from it. The big headac
Forum: rodboard

Thanks for the replies everybody. When building fishing plugs, I've always been most comfortable using multiple thin coats of epoxy clear coat to get pleasing results, so I guess I'll stay consistent with that philosophy. If nothing else, your consensus has said that.
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I'm just curious as a novice how the experienced builders on this site weigh in on Hi build epoxy versus multiple coats of the lite epoxy when doing guide wraps. Obviously mulitple coats of the lite is a more time consuming process, but if time is not a factor, are there any advantages of one over the other, i.e. superior results, less trouble with bubbling, differences in durability, etc.?
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What about the generic graphic arbors carried by Mudhole?
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I have been scouring catalogs in anticipation of building my first rod, and in order to preserve the feel of my current rod, I am going with a Fuji 22mm reel seat. I see that the appropriate graphite arbor has a 21 mm OD, so there's a fairly substantial gap of .031 inches between the arbor's OD and the seat's ID. Is that acceptable, or do I go to the next size arbor, which is too large and take
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