Seems like you could turn reelseat inserts on a steel mandrel with this setup. You will have to get or make a mandrel, then drill the block of wood for the insert, then put the insert on the mandrel and turn it round and to shape. That ought to work fine. But I prefer using a regular lathe and a 3 jaw chuck. If you can afford buy a mini or midi lathe up front you will end up with a much be
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Have not seen that reelseat, but my guess is that you are correct, you need a bigger seat. Seats usually come nominally 5/8 and 3/4 OD, roughly. On a fast 9', 5 wt I would use a screw lock rather than a cap and ring. Especially with the popularity of LA reels increasing. Drilling a reel seat right to its outer limit of ID is a risky proposition. Awful easy for the bit to catch and split or c
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Stabilized wood and a buffed coat of wax. I also am a tru-oil fan and that is what I use. Usally over a thinned coat of finish that I let "soak in" for a few days.
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SIC guides are smoother than the Alconite. At least that is my observation. And cerment is smoother still.
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Pigs look good with a small diamond. If I was gonna fish it, I would put on a SIC stripper. I do not know where to get a cheap ferrule.
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I still like to do a "pre-finish" on unstabilized wood. I submerge the turned and sanded insert in a jar with either watco oil or varnish thinned about half and half with paint thinner. I leave it submerged for a couple of days or longe, then take it out and throughly wipe all the excess off and let it dry for a couple of days. then I fine sand it again and finish it, usually with tr
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Same thing happened to me. I sent it back. They replaced it.
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Been there, done that. 7 wt blank from St. Croix with about the same defect you describe. They replaced it with no problem.. You might also let them know politely that getting a defective blank and having to take the time to get it replaced is a big problem for a builder working on a schedule. Lots of companies just don't do enough quality control, I think because if they can ship 10 margin
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One think you can do is slip a plastic screw anchor over the tip of a spade bit to make a "piloted" bit. you can stick it on with a little hot melt if you need to.
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Thanks. Got it.
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How do you find blanks on the Dan Craft website? I downloaded the catalog but all I can see is the cover page.
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I don't walk well so I tend to fish the lower parts of the streams in the Smokies. I do best with a 4 or 5 wt around 8.5 feet. I fish some bigger attractors and some pretty big nymphs. There are some fairly big streams in the park. But yes, a shorter 3 wt would be nice to have if you are up high, or if the wind is not blowing, or if you are fishing small flies. You can always use a 4 wt line
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I don't walk well so I tend to fish the lower parts of the streams in the Smokies. I do best with a 4 or 5 wt around 8.5 feet. I fish some bigger attractors and some pretty big nymphs. There are some fairly big streams in the park. But yes, a shorter 3 wt would be nice to have if you are up high, or if the wind is not blowing, or if you are fishing small flies. You can always use a 4 wt line
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I have seen people that can sand cork by hand. I am not one of them. It is hard to work by hand. Anything that turns is better. Another way to go is to just buy the pre-shaped handles and ream them to fit. I really enjoy building my own, but I have lathes and things. I think it costs less to buy pre-shaped handles than it does raw cork.
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When I have tried this the feet showed through anyway. I think the thread wiped off some of the magic marker.
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Jet is good, Delta is good. In my mind they are about equally good. So go with the cheapest or the one you just like the best.
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I have worried about the limited glueing area of the hood on a downlocking seat. But so far I have not had one come off. For one thing, the pressure is not straight back, but instead, the reel foot tends to tip the hood. Playing around with wood for a number of years, I have used a epoxy called "G2" from the woodworking stores. Supposed to be good for a wood-metal bond and you can
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Look at it this way. You probably got bum blanks. It is good to find out before you build on them, believe me. If the ferrule is thinner on one side it means that they were reamed incorrectly.
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I sometimes buy stuff from PSI. I have not tried their lathe. JET is a good, solid lathe. I would pay the difference and get the Jet. My opinion is that PSI sometimes/most times cuts a few corners to get the price down. I don't think I have ever been totally happy with a larger tool or accessory I bought at PSI. Jet sells a lot of stuff. Probably got a lower markup. Have put a lot of work
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That is one of the problems with blemished blanks and closeouts, we never know exactly what line the rod is best for. Come to think of it, we also have the same problem with full priced firsts, in that what the manf says is his estimate, rather than a defined measurment. I would send the blank back if I were you. Does not make sense to build on something that you know you are not going t
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I don't have the grizzly hobby lathe. I don't think it would be a good choice to turn wood. I think an experieced turner coluld do good work on it, but I think the limitations of the tool would inhibit learning and fun for a beginner. To lean, you really need a machine that is easy to operate and has enough power to actually make the basic cuts, rather than just scraping a little off to get a
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St. Croix has a 4 piece, light spinning blank. I like the 3 piece spinning blanks from Allstar a whole lot. For me, they fish as well as a 1 piece. Hope your customer can accept a 3 piece, because the selection is a lot wider. Batson, St. Croix, Allstar, and probably a lot more.
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I sometimes sora get my stories mixed up a little, so don't shoot me if I got the wrong rod designer with the right tale, but here is what I read: Paul Youngs designing flyrods, talking with some bigshot and customers. Somebody said "what if you just made a straight rod from the butt to the tip, like a 2x4. He said "will, it would bend in a parabala". Later sombody said &qu
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Have done some bottom fishing. Noticed on the boat that I fishe on the most that the captain a nice rod in a special locker when he comes down to the deck to catch a couple of fish. (And it sure looks like he knows how to read his fish finder to decide when to fish too). The main advantage of the solid glass rod is that they are less likely to break when they come down on the rail hard under
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Does not sound possible. But I believe it. I went to the coast to fish last fall and did not take a spinning rod. Took a reel just in case. When I got there I decided I needed a spinning rod. Went to the drugstore (in a resort town) and bought a 7', 2 piece rod for 19.95. Garcia, I think. Nice rod, ceramic guides, as gooda cork as I can get from our suppliers. China.. Builders got to sell
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I don't understand why the final wraps did not look like the test wraps on the butt? I guess that is part of your question. I have done that several times and it made a good test. Did you let the epoxy harden fully on the test wraps? I guess you could "marbalize" the wraps if you have the latest copy of rodmaker.; Another way to go is to just learn to like it like it is. I alw
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Nice lathe. Get a gouge around 3/8 to 1/3 inch, a parting tool, and maybe one of those oval skews. Those should get you started and will cover quite a bit of work. Add something as you need it. Get a 3 jaw chuck, a drill chuck, and a ball bearing center. And a good assortment of sanding paper.
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Unless they have stopped Lamiglas makes some nice glass blanks. Diamondback makes glass blanks called Diamondglas. Have used the Lamiglas, have not see the Diamondback.
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Put the pvc in their stupid cardboard box?
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No, I don't think that happens. The "shoot" is caused by the line pulling from the front, so there is nothing much to make it accordian in the rod. It is not like a casting reel where the spool is feeding line. The cast just has to pull the line out in a fly rod. However, as I can shoot more line than I can cast well enough to straighten out, I have seen a lot of line in a pile that
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