Hey Bill, I like the rx7 in a 7 wt and st croix sc4 8 wt too. I've used Batson rx6 in light trout fly rods only. It's not a price point thing so I might steer him toward something nicer.
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I am with Drew about #2 guides, no need for size 3 guides. And Bill because I like the look of thread without cp on a blank that has a colored finish on it, so the thread blends with the blank color.
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Possibly going to build a Forecast RX6 8 weight specifically because the customer is concerned about breakage from rough use while canoe camping. I read here some time ago that these rod blanks are pretty sturdy. 2.11 ounces, not too bad I think it's a typo, lighter than RX7?. How are they to cast and fish? Greg
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I have used the rx7 907-4 too. Good blank.
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I would sand with 320 first. You should epoxy again before putting on the decal if it's peel and stick, or the decal might look cloudy.
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Maryann, here are real spool diameters taken from real reels (Shimano or Daiwa). I hope this helps. Sorry no 500 or 1000. 1500 1.6" 2000 1.7" 2500 1.75" 3000 1.8" 4000 2.0"
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You might need a sharper blade. I found that single edge blades work for me, xacto blades are not sharp enough and double edge shaving blades are too sharp. I lay the blade flat and give an abrupt nudge to slice the tag. Greg
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Thanks, I'll probably go with those reel sizes for the guide layout. It wouldn't be a huge batch of rods. The idea is to get the word out and show that they can get a custom rod, also I could sell them if someone wants to buy one. Last year I showed a few personal fly rods at a confab and people asked if they were for sale. I wasn't really prepared with pricing or anything plus they were my own,
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I am considering building a few spinning rods to have something to show and to sell (got the license now). I agree with the NGC and 27x in general, but these would be built without knowing what reel will be used. I suppose you would assume a 1000 reel on an ultralight, 1500 on a trout rod, 2500 on a dropshot, 4000 for steelhead and set up the guides that way. What do you think? Greg
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Maybe you can email mudhole for the CCS data on the MHX ST1022. If the ERN= 9.5 to 10.5 and the AA= 68 to 70 that may work for you.
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I built a fly rod on a Batson IP840 blank. It cast a six weight line fine, but I eventually stripped it and built it as a spinning rod just because the length being only 7'. That is a very light spinning blank and it was enough for a six weight and even an eight weight close in. I got some 8'6" 6/7 fly blanks from Utmost Enterprises that make a good eight weight rod for bass poppers.
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I do everything in the garage, so I have a ceiling mounted electric radiant heater above the workbench. It heats the work surfaces of that area without trying to heat the whole garage. Works great, even for finishing when it's cold outside (what we call cold in central California). Greg Foy
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Capt Neil Faulkner had an interested topic concerning building on a blank that the warranty clock has been ticking on for a while. Steve Gardner had a good reply, why not build the rod and sell it as usual and warranty it if necessary. Personally I have only broke two rods, one was a factory rod that broke the first time out and was handled by the retailer for free, and one was my build and my fa
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The Pfluegler Trion is nicer than the Cabelas reels at that price point, very pretty, I had one. Okuma Sierra 4/5 is lowest price, I have one, it would do and will last if you grease the spindle. A Teton, Ross, Galvan, Bauer will last forever. Lamson reels are more high tech looking and I like that and have a few Velocity reels.
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Thomas, excuse me but I assumed you were planning on using single foot wire fly guides. A size 2 single foot wire fly guide is about the same i.d. as a #7 or #8 ceramic guide.
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And try not to dig your thumbnail into it when it is new. I know how hard it is not to test it that way, though.
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I'm with Ron's suggestion. A regular fly rod tip top is same size as a size 2 single foot guide.
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Take your time on the epoxy, but don't fiddle with it. If it starts going off and you're only half way down the rod just stop and mix another batch. It's cheap compared to everything else on the build.
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I would go for the 6wt ERN=7.15, as you pointed out you will be trying for long casts and the power of that blank will help there. What are you fishing for? Greg
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Where do you guys get the product for making the foam core?
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I got them at Donart.
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Four piece. You can still put them in a two piece case if you want.
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I have used both tradition 2 and RF mag bass and they're good.
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Chuck, did you do the finish coat on the carbon fiber tube with epoxy or urethane? It looks great.
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I will use an A7 on a three weight, they are small and light enough. They are the same length as the A5 and A4 and are shorter than the U3. PacBay A7 woven graphite 24.5 grams, aluminum 25.5g, A4 22.5g. Batson A5 21g. Unknown (Batson or PacBay) U3 23g.
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I have used regular rodbuilders two part epoxy to glue thin eva foam with cork and it worked fine for me, too. Greg
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Well I'm not a pro rod builder and I haven't made enough rods to know. I remember threads with different opinions on this forum discussing adding balance weight versus having a lighter rod. Greg
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I like a hard grip, wrapping layers of padding on the grip youre losing sensitiviy. Adding weight and tip heavy topic, opens up a whole can of worms.
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A spinning reel seat isn't very comfortable to me. A full wells fly rod grip is, and a Tennessee grip is closer to that than a reel seat. Greg
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I wanted to try out the Tennessee grip for myself, since I hadn't done one yet, so I just used cork and I'll probably use something harder next time. It is pretty comfortable. Meanwhile there are good suggestions here.
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