I was glancing through some of the forum pictures and came across the one with the broken thread spools: As I posted, you will likely have your vendor replace the spools of broken thread, but if you have an immediate need for the thread you can recover the bulk of the thread easily. Simply take a long threaded rod, insert through the spool of broken thread, place a large washer on eac
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Josh, Todays quality rod building materials for blanks really don't have a temperature sensitivity issue. Purchase the blank of your choice from any of the quality blank suppliers on the left, made of the material of the manufacturers choice and enjoy your days on the water- no matter the temperature. Take care Roger
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Robert, Stop over to your favorite Wall Mart or other store with a good camera selection and talk to one of the folks that work in the Camera department. Cameras like Fuji, Sony, Nikon are all available and can be purchased for reasonable cost. One thing that is important in your camera selection is to try to decide what you want to photograph , and if the camera is capable of doing what
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Chris, In addition to Walt's comments, you can use a double orange wrap on the guides to achieve the look you want. Take care REW
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Greg, If you are using hot melt glue - put on the tip, clean up the excess glue, then reheat as needed to tweak the final alignment. Take care Roger p.s. One little tip that I might pass on to folks using hot melt glue is as follows: One of the issues that folks sometimes have is to hot have sufficient glue on the rod tip and in the tip to hold the tip on under long term use.
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Torin, Of course they built them, but they still used roller logs to get the blocks to the top!! Roger
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Bob / Dave I suppose that I should have kept the cork. I could have used it for arbors or something else. It is just that when I received this particular shipment, I had never in my entire seen a lot of cork rings that were of such inferior quality. Basically I was looking at a bunch of holes that had a bit of cork here and there. As I said, out of a very large number of rings, I could
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Anthony, Sure, space out the rod blank with anything your want. Tape, fiberglass drywall tape or other. One popular method is to use 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch tape with about 1/8th inch spaces between the tape wraps. When you fill these spaces with epoxy, you have excellent adhesion and good long term performance with minimal weight gain. Or, you can take individual cork rings - fit them perfect
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Sergio, A really quick way to do it is to take a roll of narrow tape. Start to flex the rod and where it flexes first, put a piece of tape, then flex it some more and put the next pieces of tape on either side of the first piece from where the rod first flexed. Then, simply space the guides at greater and distances down the rod toward the butt section. I usually do this on a blank tha
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Will, Many years ago, a very good rod builder suggested using a very sharp - very thin tipped fly tying scissors for trimming rod building thread on guides. I purchased one and have not used a blade since. I sharpen the scissors about every two years. The advantage of the scissor is that you cut as close as a razor blade, but you run 0 risk to nip an existing guide thread. In th
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Phillip. A good idea when working with any type of plastic or fiberglass is to use a sharp counter sink bit to start the holes. Drill the hole deep enough so that the top edge of the hole will be a bit larger than the final hole size. This will insure that you get no splitting or cracking on the hole when you drill the actual hole. Take care Roger
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Speaking of Cork: I picked up a 1000 pieces of cork from a supplier in Australia who indicated that they were selling Flor Grade cork at a decent price. The pictures of the cork seemed to confirm the fact. After receiving the cork, I looked through the shipment. In my opinion, I would have been willing to have used about 2 rings out of the 1000 lot shipment. I had a few e-mails from the sup
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I have built several of each of the ISB781 - medium light ISB782 - medium For canadian fishing . Both work very well. Either rod will catch about anything that a person is likely to encounter. If one is targeting larger fish and or fishing deep water with heavier weights, then it makes sense to use the ISB782 - due to its heavier lure rataing and action. For those very light biting wa
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John, There might be a better solution to a stream side portable rod wrapper. The simple solution is to carry a spare rod or two. If an issue occurs, simply use the backup rod until you get back to the shop. -- I do agree, that it is nice to have some tools and spare parts along so that if something happens, one can go to work on the rod in the evening and fill some free time.
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Phillip / Russell, Virtually any motor that runs on 60hz will run just fine on 50hz - just that much slower. Conversely, virtually any motor that is marked at 50hz will run just fine at 60hz, just that much faster. Certainly the motor rpm for an ac synchronous motor is directly proportional to the ac line frequency. But, as Phillip pointed out, the ac voltage that is commonly used in
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I think that Bryan really nailed the base problem. Not too many blanks that we build on - can be considered absolutely straight. It is pretty easy for the eye to correct for slight differences, average out the bend or twist and come up with the best guide alignment. But for the fixed laser, there will be no guessing and no averaging. Take care Roger
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Sergio, Generally, I will use different shades of plain and metallic blue with silver trim. I have found that silver always pairs very well with virtually all shades of blue. Take care Roger
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I recently changed my 3 piece rod building bench to a one piece 15 foot rod building bench. In my prior arrangement, I had ball bearing roller stands between each table section. This allowed me to roll my power wrapper back and forth on my rod bench, while I remained in one location on the bench. i.e. I stayed put and rolled the rod past me as I worked on the rod. With the new one piece bench
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Phil, Just go to the photo section of this forum and do a search on rod dryer. You will find a large number of pictures of dryers that will give you some very good ideas on construction. Roger
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Josh, Check out the big @#$%& site. I have picked up quite a variety of different bands that work very well for this. Another easy choice is to simply pick up surgical rubber hose and use a razor blade to slice it up into narrow sections. Many different drug stores, medical supply stores etc. have large supplies of surgical rubber tubing on hand. Take care Roger
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Yes, and generally are tough to get to work well. Perhaps you can develop a system that will work well. Certainly worth a try and publish any results that you might get. Lots of inexpensive lasers are readily available. LED flashlights with a led beam, Laser levels etc. Give one a try and let us know how it works out. Take care Roger
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Phil, Are you talking about building a dryer oven box? If so, just make a plywood box out of 3/8th or 1/2 inch plywood. To make the rods accessible it is nice to make a full width door of Plexiglas that is hinged on the front. If you hinge it from the top, you won't get any drips on the Plexiglas, but you will need to have a method to hold the door fully open. If, you hinge it from the bottom
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John, Actually a great idea on splitting the tape. Good picture. When you split the tape, do you use the razor knife to cut the cardboard center tube at the same time? I would think that you would want the tube to come with the roll to keep the roll intact. Do you have any preference on the speed of rotation when you are splitting the tape? -- I have used other methods to split
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I was getting low and while in the local auto parts supply store picking up a car part for my son, I picked up several rolls of both 1/4 inch and 1/8th inch tape. Very inexpensive and very clean edges. I tried the cutting the tape business once, and will not do it again. It isn't worth it. Take care Roger
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Josh, Basically any object that will push your thread, will not cut your thread, and will not leave any of the objects material imbedded into the thread will work fine. A common cuticle tool works very well. A sharpened piece of piano works well. A common nail file works fine. A commercial rod building burnishing tool - either metal or plastic works fine. Just have sharp edges, that are not t
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Bruce, As Tom so aptly put - simply multiply a tip that is measured by a caliper by 64. Or, for your case take .130X64 = 8.32/64ths. Then, as Tom said, use an 8.5/64ths. Conversely, if you happen to have a tip that is known to be a certain 64th measurement and you want to know the decimal size- simply divide by 64. So, if you have an 8.5/64th tip you simply divide by 64. Or 8.5 d
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All of the posts are excellent with respect to this question. The only thing that I might suggest is to use one of the setups listed above and make a couple of tests. As posted, I would likely go with a 20,16,10 - 6, and 4s. Do some test casting with a weight of the size - with which you will normally fish. Just do the test casting with the guides taped in place. Do at least 20 or so ca
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Chop 6 inches from the butt of the rod, build it up and go catch a bunch of trout. We trim from the butt section on blanks all of the time to meet the needs of the client. The key thing to remember, that for light, and ultra light action rods, the tip is the key. The top 6 inches of these light action rods are the key to the rods performance. Yes, you change the overall action a bit by trim
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Josh, It depends on what sort wrapper you have. If you have a short based wrapper, you likely need a longer table to be able to move the wrapper to one end, and have a rod support near the tip. If, on the other hand you have a 10 foot long base on your wrapper, you can use a 4,6, 8,10,12,14,20,30 or 40 foot table to place your wrapper. i.e. the base will support the rod, even if it is p
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Bill, I have used a few of these handles for ice rods. It is a way to get a decent appearing handle for a relatively low price since there is only a thin layer or veneer of cork on the foam handle. You get what you pay for, but for some rods, it is a good compromise between appearance and cost.
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