Phil, Perfectly normal for many motors. Simply determine where the motor shaft will be, when it is rotating. Adjust the pulley accordingly. If you are worried about it, you can take the motor apart and add shims inside the motor to eliminate the end play. Roger
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Ken, When I built this setup for Barry, one of the things that I like about using the DC gearmotors is that you don't have to contend with any type of added speed changing pulleys or gears. You will note that a simple 1:1 timing gear pulley setup is used for the wrapper. Then, of course the two big advantages of using DC for the drive motor is the ability to quickly and easily reverse motor d
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In addition to Ken's comments about the use of an exhaust fan, make sure you have a fresh air - INLET - vent in your garage. i.e. You need a source of a makeup air for your garage, as you exhaust the stale and or contaminated air out of the garage. If you have a vent fan on one side of your shop or garage, it is not a bad idea to have in inlet filter on the opposite side of the shop or g
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John, The simple thing to do would be to take your reel to a fly rod shop and try your reel in various rods until you find one that fit and one that you like. Then, determine the manufacturer of that reel seat. Roger
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Ken, As I posted earlier, the use of 10 lb power pro - bright yellow with a single bead left about the knot works very well. Just keep the bead close to the thread when wrapping and you don't get a floppy bead. 10 yards of power pro will tie many many tie off loops. Just a cut with the scissor, and a surgeons knot to tie the ends together and you have a perfect tie off pull through loop.
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Richard, One difference happens when you have thin epoxy - as is the case for your rod, and thick epoxy - as is the case for your left over epoxy. The difference is HEAT. When you have a very thin layer of epoxy, the layer of epoxy is so thin that there is little self heat generated as a result of the "kick" or cure of the epoxy. But, in areas of thicker or the leftover ep
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Matt, If you want do just turn cork you can just obtain a threaded shaft 3600 rpm motor and put a 1/2 inch threaded chuck on the end of the shaft. Then, make a rod support to support the end of the rod turning manderal. Lay up a hanle on a manderal, chuck it into the chuck, bolt the other end in the rod support and turn on the motor. Use files, and or sand paper to shape the handle
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I tend to agree with Tom. If the problem was moisture, I would normally see a more uniform milky appearance, indicating trapped moisture. Your pictures look more like a bubble issue. Did you have any bubbles in the mix when you applied it? If so, did you use a bit of gentle heat to allow the mix to thin and for the bubbles to escape? If not, I think it is likely bubbles. p.s.
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Try a tape up of the prospective guides and try running your anticipated lines, swivels and snaps through the guides. If everything that you want to use runs through the guides and you an cast like you like - it is up to you if you want to use them or not. Remember, one of the things about fishing is that it is supposed to be fun. If you end up having trouble, or taking more time with
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Bob, I just use a tapered stick with marks on the stick for each of the potential gide size. Just like sizing a ring, let the guide slip down the stick until it stops and read the mark on the stick. The most important thing is the inside diameter of the guide. If you have a mishash of guides, some with no rings, some with thin rings and some with thin things, you might find that a guide
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John, When you turn a rubber chair leg cap you need to get the speed up to get a nice look. I use either a 2800 rpm drill or a 3600 rpm motor to spin the cap. Also, when doing the initial shaping, I start with very coarse sandpaper. I typically start with either 36 or 40 grit paper. This coarse paper cuts fairly quickly but due to the nature of the rubber cap, does not get particularly scr
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John, If you want a tough butt for a rod handle, use a common rubber chair leg cap. I used to use these caps all of the time for rod butts and will still use them if I need the toughest butt to hold up to banging around. I select a chair leg cap so that the outside of the chair leg is a bit larger than the butt to be capped. I verify that the inside of the chair leg cap will still be
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Russell, For the fishing you are doing, all that you need is a reel with good gears and good drag. Many many different reels on the market that meet this criteria without breaking your pocketbook. Just go out and handle a hundred or so different reels and make the choice that suits you Roger
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Darrel, I have several in the shop. I call them compressor blow guns. I use them for general purpose cleaning of the shop and garage. But, with the various tips, short, long, big and little, they also work wondefully well to install and deinstall grips. Not only do they work well for eva foam grips, but they work to install grips on tillers, bicycles, snow mobiles, motor cycles, etc.
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Rich, Always hang the "loop" back on the same spot all of the time and it will be with you for a very long time. Roger
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Richard, Just as a check point. You did NOT put any type solvent or thinnner in the epoxy did you? If you did put any type of material in the 2-part epoxy, you could end up with a softer finish. In general, it is NOT a good idea to put any sort of material into a 2-part finish. The 2 part finishes are designed by the manufacturer to get to their expected cure hardness and time wit
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Fernando, If you have to take money from your pocket to cover an expense incurred during the construction of a rod, it should be billed to the customer as part of the final cost. If you don't, you end up paying for the privilidge of building rods and you end up with no money in your own bank account. Roger
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Tony, That is the remarkable thing about the human body. The body will absorb abuse - whether from what we breathe, eat or drink. Finally, one day the body stops tolerating the things that we are doing to it and it says NO. This may be in the form of an allergic reaction or something worse. For those folks who have not had any reactions yet from their envoronment, do everything to keep
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Do the best job you can do to insure you have good ventilation in your working area as you do the various jobs associated with building rods. Many of the glues, finishes , cleaning products and solvents can be harmful to the lungs and other body parts over long term use. Many of the effects are additive. i.e. when the body is exposed to some of these products, the effects of the products
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Greg, I use the respirator with the activated charcoal that is rated for the isotonic paint hardners. As the fellow at the paint store said, "If you can smell any fumes, it is time to change the filters." Bottom line, with the respirator in use, you can smell 0 fumes from the solvent. But again, excellent ventilation is a good thing in any working environmnent. We only have
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I also use the Yellow 10lb power pro. I put a pink bead in the end of the loop at the knot. To take care of the bead slapping problem, that is mentioned above, I just pull the loop with the beaded end close to the wraps. If the bead is close to the wraps, no issue wiht slapping. It only took a couple of wraps to get this in hand and have been using it for the last many rods with no issu
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Phillip, The best long term solution is to always remove the rear grip, slide off the reel seat, reglue the reel seat and or arbor, replace the rear handle. Roger
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Billy, Good advice. I edited my initial post! Thanks for the reminder. Roger
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Jim, I like to saw it off with a band saw. Simply run the saw parallel to the blank, but a bit outside the edge of the blank. Do it about 4 or 8 times so that you cut more and more of the handle off. Another way to do it, especially if it is a cork handle is to use a pair of regular slip joint pliars. Use the pliars in the loosest position, and the coarse jaws of the pliars will quickly
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Billy, Yes it is harsh. I do recommend the use of a full rebreather respirator if you do use xylene. But it is a very very effective cleaner. When there are problem areas, Xylene cleans many times better than alcohol for certain types of materials. Roger
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Jeff, Rebuild the rods using black thread. No underwraps. No 'CP and I expect you will be fine. I have built many Muskie rods here in MN as well, but never use CP nor do I do any underwraps and have never had any issues. After you strip off the guides, do a good blank wipe down with Xylene. Xylene will completly clean the blank of ANYHTHING and I expect you will be fine. WARNING:
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Ray, I use one of the following: 1. I use fly style conventional guides, with no ceramic rings or 2. Pac Bay Minima 4 guides. I built several hundred ice rods last winter, but the majority of the rods were with either one or the other styles of guides. Really no reason at all to have guides with ceramic or other type liner in the rings. The line out and line in is minimal. General
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I personally generally don't care for the look that one gets with CP, so unless there is an absolute need for a color or look that can only be obtained with CP, I don't use it. I do agree that without using CP, the epoxy tends to penetrate the thread better and help bond the thread a bit better to the blank, but there is certainly no issues with inadequate bonding for those wraps which have
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Richard, The upside of using size C, is that it is much easier to use and takes less effort and fewer turns to wrap a rod. The downside is that for most rods, thread that heavy is really not needed. The other downside of using size C is that you don't get as "finished" a look with C, as you do with A sized thread. Due to the larger thread size, you get a bit of a ridged look t
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