Same here, I've had a few of mine for well over 10 years, some are noisier than others but they keep going. Their a gear reduction motor with no bearings so they do wear, but they never seem to wear out. My newest one is probably my noisiest one. Try starting and stopping it, making it run it in the opposite direction, see if that stops some of the noise. I find that most are noisier in one d
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I just went to the site, I have DSL here and it took 3 minutes per page to load the images, at that rate I'd waste and afternoon just trying to get through the catalog. All it's going to do is mean more will have to order a print catalog. I for one don't have the time to sit and wait for a page like that to load.
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I use hot water, but it will take some time for it to completely soften back up. The resin will crystallize over time, no harm is done but you need to heat it up to dissolve the crystals. This happens with many epoxies. Not just Aftcote. Usually the hardener isn't affected.
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I have to agree with Mike above, most of the rods I build see saltwater use, so I make every possible effort to seal both the threads and guides as well as possible. I've seen some rods come in for repair that appear to have been completely coated with finish, tip to handle.
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Most all 2 piece rods you order now come already ferruled but years ago, they didn't, you had to measure and fit a brass ferrule and glue that into place or make up a ferrule from a section of old blank.
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You may want to check your local phone book for used equipment dealers, I picked up an older Atlas 10" with a 30" bed for $300. Its badged Craftsman, but is simply an Atlas rebadge from the late 60's. It was still new in the crate when I got it, the story I got was that it came from a Vo-Tech school that dropped it's machine shop program. I also have a very small Enco precision lathe t
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I've had rods which were shipped in PVC broken, UPS somehow managed to snap the tube in two places as well as both rods inside. What I've been doing when I ship rods that I really need to protect is to use 4" heavy cardboard tubes with the rod supported high and low with a foam ring which centers it in the tube, and about 4" on foam on each end to cushion it. This has been fool proof
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If you do that combination right, it will look as if the guides are growing right out of the rod, the key is to be careful not to get any bubbles at all.
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I have one that's mounted in a groove in one bench, the track sits nearly flush in the bench top, I did this just for comfort since it lowers the reach to the rod. I can work on a rod with my palms still resting on the table. The other two are just sitting on the other benches, I do have rubber mat under them but I like being able to move the wrapper left of right as needed, rather than my mov
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I've had customers come to me wanting this done pretty often, either they've had rods break in the past or the rod was a loose fit, if they let me I'll usually just advise them to let me fix the ferule, but most just want it made permanent. In those cases, a light coating of rod building epoxy on the ferule and pushing it tightly together no doubt makes it permanent. Even coating the ferule ends
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I've stripped a few sewing machines to get motors over the years, most were either 1/4" or 5/16" shaft motors, I have one of the 1/4" motors here in front of me now, its "D" shaped and measures .2497" on my calipers. The pulleys on my Rodsmith and Amtak rod wrappers are both 1/4" ID pulleys as well. I would assume that the replacement pulleys are the same from
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Carve up a 3 oz bank sinker to fit and cut it down till its at the weight you need, then epoxy it in place. You could also take a piece of stainless bar stock and cut a 2.5 oz piece and do the same thing.
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You can use either a section of old rod or an aluminum tube. You won't affect the perceived action of the blank since the extension will be behind the reel seat. I would guess that he's looking to get the rod butt to extend beyond his forearm for balance or to allow it to sit in a boat's rod holder. If you have the reel that he's using on each particular rod, you can also balance the rod to
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I had a guy last summer that bought two nice custom boat rods at a fisherman's flea market. He said he needed them "fixed" and that "Someone wrapped the guides all wrong". I tried to tell him that it was made that way intentionally, but nothing doing, he had to have them moved to the top of the rod. Not sure who's they were but their no longer spiral wrapped now. I took it tha
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I've done a few of those blanks with HT metallic pewter trimmed in gold, a few in red with no cp, left to darken a bit, and a few with black or dark brown wraps. I personally like the look of the HT metallics on those blanks, copper, green, bronze, or even black will also work, then trimmed in gold, silver, yellow, white, etc. Copper or burgundy with a gold trim band both come out great too.
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What brand is on the one you bought? I saw one this afternoon in a dollar store here that says Bonjour on it, it's identical to the one I have that says Master Appliance, but for $9.99 rather than $55 on the tool truck. Running down to DE don't make much sense for me here, I'd spend the difference on gas and toll. The drive usually offsets the savings in sales tax for something like that.
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I use the small 1 oz plastic cups like are sold by so many suppliers but I uses the same cup over and over, I just let what ever is left set up in the cup, that way I can use the epoxy that's left to gauge drying time. When the cup is full after a week or so of mixing, I just turn it over and dump out the lump of hardened epoxy or start over with a fresh cup. I have a power mixer but I tend to j
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I'm not sure what Crem Bruele' is, or how it's made but I've been using a simple little butane torch for years, one of those like you would buy for soldering. It's about 5" tall and has a round stand. I think its made by Master Appliance or something. It wasn't particularly cheap back then but they've gotten cheaper in later years. Radio Shack also used to sell small pocket torches that work
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I should also mention that the Pac Bay Rodsmith wrapper also comes with a thread carriage which has horizontal spool mounts, much nicer to work with and no thread twist. I've had no issues with the track, but I have it mounted to and slighty recessed into the particle board top of my bench. I have three sections in all set up with an optional spare fourth which I rarely need. I'd love to see a
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Myself, I prefer the roller stands and wing nut hold down method on the Rodsmith version. I have one Amtak lathe and the top roller on the stands is only spring loaded. Also, if choosing a lathe, go with the aluminum chuck right off the back, you'll be glad you did. I also ordered several extra roller stands for each of mine.
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I did something similar years ago for my first few driers, but figured that since I was at the lathe, I might as well just make them out of aluminum. I bored out some 2" bar stock and then threaded them for both the adapter and four clamping screws. (I was using clamping screws to accommodate pistol grip rods). I like the idea of inner tube though but it may tend to dry rot or leave black m
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I have it stripped, I used the dremel tool to get the guides off and to cut into the finish, they chipped it away with a small screwdriver. Tom pretty much described it correctly. As far as the spine, what I mean by backwards is that this is wrapped as a spin rod, yet the back bone of the spine is on the same side as the guides. If I place this on the spine finder, the rod bends easiest to awa
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The blank is satin black, heat don't do a thing. I had to cut the broken tip top off with a Dremel cut off tool buy splitting the tube lengthwise and peeling it off the blank. The coating isn't very clear, it's more of a cloudy yellow but since its on a black blank with black only wraps it didn't look yellowed on the wraps. It looks like it yellowed from UV exposure or something. The top surfa
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It's not set or bent, its just strongly spined in the wrong direction. It's indeed fiberglass, solid all the way through like a Daiwa Beefstick. What do you call the epoxy and how do you get it off? I've used and dealt with Flexcoat, Gudebrod, and most others. This stuff is more like plexiglass in hardness than epoxy. It chips off instead of cutting or peeling away. Once you get a good size
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You will need to know first what he plans to throw with it, and what type of casting he does. Spin or conventional, single rear grip or split rear grip, one of two hand cast etc. Most surf rods I build have a pretty long butt end, mainly for a long two hand cast and on a bait tossing stick, to keep the reel out of the sand in the rod holder. I prefer to have some sort of complete rear grip o
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I got an odd one in for repair today, its an 8' solid blank spin rod, done custom locally I'm told. It's got a 24" molded rear EVA grip, Fuji seat and a 5" tapered fore grip. No butt wrap, only a winding check. It's probably a med. hvy. blank with medium action. I have to concerns with this rod, first, its build as a spin rod, and the spine if obviously backwards. The guy raked
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Your common hot melt glue from the hobby shop melts at a far lower temp than does rod tip cement. Although both are heat melted and applied, and I suppose you could use a hot melt glue gun to melt the tip cement, it would be a bit of a waste of time to wait for the gun to warm up just to adhere a rod tip. If you want to experiment for yourself, take a piece of that hotmelt glue and set it on
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I have to agree with that here, but it sure make a mess come tax time. A lot depends on which state you live in too.
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How does it compare to Flex Coat or Gudebrod? These are the only two I've used, I never had a problem so I've never experimented.
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If your referring to an Interline style rod, (through the blank rod), your best bet would be to call the manufacturer of that rod. It may be a proprietary part or one that's just not available. I've seen this style rod from various manufacturers, the most common here is Daiwa,(Intercast), and the Cabela's (Interline) rods.
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