I use a dremel variable speed, works well on low speed Quick n easy using one of the sanding bits that comes with it, the course paper seems perfect for the job It's like a cylinder shaped bit
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Do you mean like a jasper thread of yellow and black (zig zag?) i have a 4oz spool of Gudebrod which is a NCP size C I live in oz
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Not everybody will recognize fuji's concept. I certainly don't apply it to my rods.
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I saved a fuji seat once I thought was worth saving off a broken rod, I simply cut the rod off at the ends of the seat and drilled the rest out, i still have this seat
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Yes Size D regular nylon is all you'll need Providing it's properly sealed and finished I do all my rods in regular thread anyway.. not just because it's stronger than NCP. it looks better too
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Well, if it's fine in long term, by all means My experience suggests otherwise I had no issues just using straight finish. I mainly use the thinner stuff for light rods, but when i used the thicker stuff It still did the job. Acetone is a solvent
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<Josh - the use of acetone in this application was in discussion with the epoxy formulator (Andy Dear) - and used in a very specific way. Doesn't mean he's correct I only use acetone for clean up There were fibreglass companies that I worked for that wouldn't supply thinners for repairs, to thin down gelcoats so it will spray nice through a spray touch up gun. So I was forced to use
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Acetone is not a good thinner I've been in the fibreglass industry for a long time Proper thinners built for this product should only be used Thinning it down with acetone makes resins porous and degrades the quality in every way Might look OK initially, but see how it looks given some time in the elements
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Josh, I have a Pac Bay power wrapper that uses the > same type of tension system. Nylon washers, a > spring, and a wing nut. I'm not sure I had > problems with the wing nut tightening, but I did > have problems with inconsistent thread tension. I > ended up getting a pair or rare earth magnets f
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm like Roger, same experience with that type > tensioner. A problem with the tensioners that > load the ends of the spools is that labels which > are not really smooth can affect the tension, > giving uneven tension. I submit if the thread > (not talking metallic which I like Roger just use
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Like a wire spring guide? I've got those but I live in Oz I see a lot of old rods for sale on FB marketplace with all sort of wire guides You might be able to find one there dirt cheap, and rob the guides off it.
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test (C/P)
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Thanks, Rodger I have used a sewing machine thread tensioner for about 30yrs without any issues, set up so i can spin 100yd, 1oz or 4 oz spools. It's just that I do centre wraps or full underwraps in metallics sometimes Hence wanting those spools supported rather than using your hands. I've had issues with the foil scuffing, not a good look. Cheers.
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I had issues with my home made thread tension device, where the tension is on the spool not the actual thread, the wing nut kept moving to tighten or loosen depending which way I placed the spool. Tried everything to solve it, it has the right amount of washes too to start with, I ended up screwing in another nut... tension the thread/spool just a bit to how I like it, and then used the wing n
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Manufacturers go to great lengths stress testing their blanks before they ship them out I think one would be more concerned about buying a factory build rod, Who knows where it's been since the blank left the factory Mass production process, transportation, it might got hit somewhere along the line, buying a factory produced rod one would stress test it at the shop before buying. As for
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El Bolinger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for sharing your thoughts y'all! > > I'm gonna see what happens with a beefy spinning > build, I've never reeled in a 1/2 oz spinnerbait > or crank bait or worm on a spinning reel - but > definitely seems worth a go considering the > carefree castability. I hate having one of the few
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I set up a 7 foot light spin rod with 7 guides by eye (took a guess) and the butt guide positioned a third the distance of the middle of the reel seat to the tip & just put it under a workable load (half way from a static test to hooking a big fish you could say) with the bail arm line roller out the furthest to see how it looks, Then turned the rod around to see how it looks (in a reverse
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