For the past 40 years Flex Coat was my clear coat of choice. Maybe it's me or maybe the different color preservers out there now that don't jive with FC. But a couple of times this past year it seems to stay on the soft side. Not sticky but just shy of sticky. Bought a new set of bottles of FC , 3 or 4 rods seemed to be fine and then poof it raised it's ugly head again and stayed soft. Looking fo
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I've had that happen to flex coat in the past. Placed it in a small pot of boiling water for a few minutes and when it warmed up it got thinner and cleared up, just make sure the top is loose so it doesn't explode as it expands from heat. Wait for it to cool down and you should be good.
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Haven't had any issues like that but what I found is the prowrap colorfast thread doesnt lay up tight along other passes on the butt wrap . It seems to roll unlike the old Gudebrod threads that would lay flat and stay tight. The profast seems to be wound tight and likes to roll, has no stretch at all.
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Oh and remember the Boron rods also. Mark excellent article you posted, Like you say they both have a place in the sport, Plus it gives us rod builders more tools in our arsenal.
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Looking for green reel seats and butt caps for a centerpin rod
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John, Thanks will do. I was gonna go with 29 inches, now i may go an inch or 2 more,
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building a Float Rod for a Centerpin Reel, is there a rule of thumb for distance between center of reel to first guide, already have it static placement for the rod, just wondering if my first, (aka stripper guide ) needs relocation.
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Past yrs I've used a 9ft 2pc orvis fly rod for Browns and steelies. The past several yrs all I use are 10ft rods and I'll spend 8 to 10 hours a day throwing flies, I've estimated 1,000 casts a day, i've got no problem here doing it. Between now and the winter's freeze I'll total around 3 weeks doing it also. Just never cared for the 3 or 4pc blanks.
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Miss the old Gudebrod color preserver. I do not care for the water based cp's and can't seem to find a good one that holds the butt wraps in place so they can be trimmed and finished off. Has anyone found a good product that holds the treads in place so they can be wrapped off without unraveling.
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was wondering if anyone knows who makes a 10', 2pc, 8wt fly blank
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All this talk of Generation 4 finish has perked my interest. Where does one buy it. Been using flex coat for almost 40yrs with no complaints but always keeping an open mind to new products.
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I have an Easton arrow cut off saw that I use on arrow shafts. It works excellent on rod blanks as well. If I didn't have it , the one from harbor freight would work just as good and at about 1/3 the price is a great buy.
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Guys thanks for the help, guess i'll give them a call.
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Your best bet could be t Mudhole, MHX 4pc - 7wt or 8wt fly blank, personally the 13ft float rod blank which is 3pc would be great choice but length might be a problem for you even broken down.t
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Building a rod for a 2X Purple Heart Marine and trying to find small decals that are of Military Branches to include a Purple Heart decal. Can't seem to locate them anywhere, appreciate any help.
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The guide spacing I posted earlier was straight from Fenwick, it's the spacing they used when the rod was manufactured. It seems to have vanished, here it is again, according to Fenwicks 1990 catalog sp681 is a 5'8" ultralite glass blank, from the tip down / 5" - 11" - 20" - 30" - 41" hope this helps.
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