Tom, I wouldn't do that, nor would I expect Andy or you. I only meant that if it's a sponsor, you should deal with it, no one else. I guess it didn't come out like that at first. And when I'm done with my current supply of finish, I certainly will go to Andy! Dave
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Well, Tom, if it's one of your sponsors, you ought to be told. I wouldn't wan t to deal with that particular vendor. Dave (Honest to a Fault)
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The method I was told was to use the edge of the razor blade to scrape off the old finish, taking care to stay level with the flat edges, by pulling the blade back edge first across the flats along the length of the rod. Kind of like a backwards plow. Like Bob said, using strippers might unglue the bamboo. Dave
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Here you go, straight from Sage... Dave
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Just my two pennies... I have a 6 wt Sage XP blank that I'm building. I've spined the tip section on every rod I've built, and I could not for the life of me find one on this Sage. Maybe that's why they don't. I had trouble finding one on the SLT I built recently, too. I know in my head I don't need to spine, but I do anyway. It's for me, not the rod. Dave
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tony giacone Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > what is the advantage of putting it on cork grips? > i'm new to this and i'm building my first rod and > it has a cork grip. Protection, aesthetics, that's about it. It hardens the surface and seals it. It also darkens it. Gives it an aged look. Feels more like wood. Dave
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It's a Birchwood casey product. Check the sporting goods stores, or order online. The stuff makes wood absolutely glow. I've also used it on cork grips. Dave
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Wes, if you are in the hobby for any length of time and want to do custom grips, all it takes is a drill, rat tail file or mandrel, and a device to glue your cork. I made mine out of a threaded rod with fender washers. Garage sale drills are a dime a dozen. A couple strips of sandpaper and you're in business. A home-built mount for the drill completes the setup. It's really very simple and e
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Been there, done that. The least expensive components of rod building are thread and finish. Why skimp on it? Buy the correct materials, you won't be cursing 2-part finishes ever again. Dave
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I do it the hard way, and since I'm a hobby builder it doesn't matter how much time I take. I use a sanding drum in a Dremel. I mark an impression from the hardware on the end of the cork, or trace it with a pencil. I carefully remove material, slowly, until I get a decent fit. Do not force it. If it's a tiny bit loose, epoxy can take up the slack. Or, use the cork ring Struble supplies
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I use that principle to keep bubbles out. I saturate the wrap, let the finish soak in, and use a spatula to take off all the excess finish. The second coat would be the normal application, and bubble free. I haven't really looked for a tool to do the job, since I find that strips of playing cards work well to take off the excess. Dave
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I got really nice nickel silver ones from REC, and blued them. Sweet!
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I've purchased them from both REC and Anglers Workshop. They were made expressly for slip ring hardware. Dave
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You could also try . I've dealt with them, good people. Dave
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Have you looked at Tiogas? #12 Standard gives you 200-300 yards of 30#, or the #12 Magnum (wide spool) both are less than $200 retail. I have a #8, love it. Drag has a very wide range, and they're built for salt.
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My experience... 15+ years ago when I built my first rods, a Sage RPL 8 wt and Scott PowrPly 3 wt, I did it to save some money, which I did. I still use them today, and look fondly at the amateur wraps and faux pas. This past year I used the Scott as practice on a rebuild and it turned out well. After a hiatus of 13 years, I started off with a couple inexpensive blanks. They are both now
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I'm replacing a broken guide on a production Sage SLT, and can't seem to match exactly the color of the wraps. Anyone know what matches? Dave
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There is the possibility of bad thread. I had the same problem with black Gudebrod not so long ago. Not realizing the scope of the problem, I coated the wraps and made a big mess for myself. I have since used exactly the same method (book) of tensioning and have not had problems with any other thread. Of course, those two spools of black have long since been trashed. Dave
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Thanks, Ken. I've already sealed the ends of the grips and reel seat quite well, and plan on doing so to my wraps as well. If salt finds a way in I'll be very surprised.
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Thanks, fellas. I thought it would be, just wanted more knowledgable opinions.
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I'm about to wrap a 10 wt fly rod for the salt, and I'm not sure that A-size thread would be best. I'm doing traditional snakes and strippers. Will it be strong enough? Stripers would be the intended fish. I hope so, I've got my color scheme worked out already. Dave
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I had the same problem some time ago. I added a second thin coat, let it set a few days to harden completely, then sanded all the wraps smooth using a fine grit emory board and sand paper, with a wipe with steel wool to finish. I added a third normal coat of finish, and you cannot tell there was even a problem. Be careful not to sand down to the thread, or it will happen again. Dave
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I once did a second coat od Flex Coat just 6 hours after the first. As long as the first coat has fully set so as not to be tacky to the touch it's okay to recoat. I also once waited up to 3 days for the second coat with no apparent ill effects. After 2 to 3 days, I now scuff the surface lightly, just to be sure they bond well. Dave
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Thanks for the education, all. I do understand the value of a good rod. This one is obviously better than I thought. Dave
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I'm about to replace a reel seat on an Excelon Flyfisher, model "gF 574-LCI", or "9F 574-LCI". Does anyone know if I'm ruining any value of it, or if it has any value? I can't believe the owner is willing to pay $55 to have me replace the seat. It can't really be worth much, except a sentimental value. I'd love to replace the grip, the cork is really shot. The rod is suc
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Hook and Hackle also sells them. Dave
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Is there any way to transfer the data to this site? I sure looked at it a few times, and wanted to see if my new blank was there. Dave
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I used U-40 for my inlays until one day I noticed a bit of cloudiness under the finish while looking at it in the sun. I've used Gudebrods since then, and haven't noticed the cloudiness. Don't know if there's a difference, or just coincidence. Dave
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One time. It was a spontaneous explosion. I had been put on a high dose of cortisone for an allergic reaction while on vacation. I went fishing in spite of feeling pretty wicked. I was stalking a rather large fish, downstream of a rock, and upstream from a log. I could get about a 3 foot drift. First cast, slightly too close to me. Fish rose two more times. Second cast, right over it.
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LARRY PIRRONE Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > southbend rods were the "blue collar" rods of > their day. most are 8 1/2 to 9 feet in length and > somewhat heavy. bamboo is a wonderful material > for rod making in the hands of a good maker. you > would be better off to try to find a good blank by > someone like mark fitch who sel
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