Mike, PG adds nothing to the diameter of the grip. But I only wipe on 1-2 layers. Chris
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Chuck, I use PG to coat all of my grips, regular cork or burl. I apply it with a coffee filter, or other lint free paper. I put gloves on, saturate the filter, and apply. I put it on before I epoxy the grip to the rod. I really like the way the grips turn out. Chris
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As entertaining as this could get, here is an excerpt from an interview with Gary Loomis, by Terry Battisti: “When I left I never wanted to compete against Lamiglas in the rod business,” he said. “But I couldn’t get the arrow company going so in 1980 I started Loomis Composites. Then, in 1981 the U.S. government said to the manufacturing industries that we need to start training our preferr
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Regardless of the added weight, I switched to burl cork years ago. Arbors help lighten things on longer grips, but I rarely build grips of much length, anymore, either. Plus burl gives nice color options. And is cheaper than traditional, blem free cork. Chris
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But he didn't say whether or not the fore grip is on..... Chris
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This bums me out, but I hope everything is for the best for Jon and everyone. I usually stopped there a couple times a year, especially when we would have the rod show near by. Oh well, times change. Good luck to everyone there. Chris
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I have both types of tip sizers, and I still find myself using actual guides. More visually oriented.... Chris
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Jon, The other thing that is helpful for me, is one tip top of each size. That way I can actually try them on and see what fits in the tips I use. Take care, Chris
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Electric eels? Couldn't resist.......
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Ben, I would turn the old cork grip down, evenly, and then ream the new grip so that you could slip it on from the butt up, using the old cork as an arbor. Chris
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John, The last time I bought JC feathers from Angler's, they were in packs of 10 for $8.95. As for imitations, personally, I could never use a fake feather! However, that's just me..... Chris
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I've used rings, in as short as a week after harvesting. I store unused rings on a 1/4" all thread rod, with 1 1/4" fender washers and wingnuts on each end, compressing them. Chris
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Jon, Sorry about that. I needed laser because I have an Alps printer. Just substitute inkjet and you will find plenty. Some waterslide paper is listed for both, and some are listed for one or the other. Chris
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Just make sure your cp is completely dry and cured. I've had Perma Gloss destroy a label, covered with a white cp, that I thought was dried enough. Chris
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Hi Jon, Yes, clear sheets are available. I'm not aware of any sponsors that carry them, though. A few months ago, I purchased 20 sheets off of an online bidding site. I searched "clear laser waterslide paper". Take care, Chris
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Deleted my post, cause I misread the original message. Chris
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I just finished turning four grips, with the premium burl, and I really like it. I glued it up with Titebond III. The color is nice and consistent, throughout, and the rings turn down smoothly. Gonna keep using these! Chris
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A short time ago, I ordered several hundred rings of premium burl cork, from Joe and the good folks at Custom Fly Grips. Although there was a technical error, during the ordering process, it was corrected, and my order was not delayed. I received the box today, and it was like Christmas! The quality looks excellent, and the colors really pop, especially compared to the faded colors of regula
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Hi Chad, When using single foot guides, you may want to utilize the Forhan locking wrap. Check the library. This has additional wraps around the shank of the guide, to prevent what you experienced. And whether you use cp or not (I don't), you want to make sure the tunnel and around the guide foot gets filled with cp or epoxy. This will stabilize the guide and assist in preventing it from
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Hi Dave, I may be misunderstanding you, so forgive me if I am. Do you mean one of the preformed cork butt caps, with the approx. 3/4" opening, that looks like a little shot glass? If this is what you have, I would glue up 4 or 5 cork rings, turn down one end to fit the preformed cap, then shape the rest of your fighting butt, ream to fit the rod butt, slide it on, glue in place, the
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Thanks to everyone, especially Lamiglas! I had a blast, this year, like normal. Chris
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I'm late, coffee's on Terry....... Chris
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I will see you there! Chris
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Lam, I've caught plenty of shad at Bonneville, and I wouldn't go under a 6 weight, myself. Of course this will vary from blanks and brands, but 6-7 would be my target weights. And I like using 9-10 foot rods, for shad spinning rods, for greater casting distance. Chris
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Eugene, Regular white will most likely darken, even with cp. NCP white would be better, but may still darken slightly, and will be flat and paintlike in appearance ( which prob won't matter with a couple bands). I suggest several test wraps. Also, you might try silver for a couple trim bands. Chris Also, if you use regular white, and no cp, it will become mostly clear.
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Abram, You need to put a fresh coat of epoxy on, after you sand and before you put the label on. Otherwise your sanding will show through the label. Chris
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Scott, You didn't glue anything to your hair or clothes? Sounds like it was a roaring success! Chris
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Nathan, Where in Washington are you? Chris
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Bill, Scalpels work great for this, among numerous other tasks. Sharp, sharp blade, with a handle! Chris
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James, If you squirt glue in, as Casey suggested, you shouldn't be doing a single glue plug. You would want to get a substantial amount of glue between the seat and blank, not into a hole in the blank. Then, you would spin the loose seat a couple of times, and position it where you want it to dry. Chris
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